Offtopic for the car, but will ultimately help in working on the car.

Got 240 @ 40 amps ran out to the garage after many beers. I plan on putting more lighting in for the bay above the miata, and probably one for above the bay by the bench. I'll be buying a welder here shortly, hopefully i can somehow make payments on it and whatnot. Blah blah.

 

I would round the whole entrance to the turbo

 

Buddy of mine came into town from over 8 hours away and wanted to see it start, so he did all the work to get it going last night.



We were actually standing around for a while waiting for UPS to deliver parts for a few hours.

Ran my coolant pipes so they didn't cross this time.


Got everything installed, Mostly, still need to do a ton of little things. Install intercooler with a SS bracket i need to drill out Reinstall intake piping and air box. Make everything look pretty again. Ect.


More audio and visual candy.

 

Everything is back together, back on the ground, and running good.

I didn't go out and start whooping on it. But from what i found through a few little pulls is it's reaching 6psi almost instantly and holding very steady. Again, i didn't really take it to redline. Plus i need to get some smaller clamps for the IC.

Intercooler is mounted very nicely and sturdy. Didn't get pictures of the mount, oh well. I also need tow hooks badly, or painted.


You guys probably can't tell, unless you go back a few pages but i did some more wire tucking. It's not perfect but it will work for me.



Now that i've degreased, tucked, and even did a little painting on the driver side, i am going to have to do the passenger side. I mainly want to relocated my big ugly overflow tank somewhere, but i'm not sure where and with what.

I'd go out today and get some video , but it's so crummy and looks like rain. Tomorrow i'm hooking up EBC, and getting launch control/antilag setup. Video should follow.

 

Uhhohh What's about to happen here?

 

Anyone have any idea what the ---- a DIYPNP 1.5b MS is??


EBC does not want to work on it. Neither does the clutch switch for launch control, flat foot, ect.

 

it's an ECU.

v1.5b is the model number of the mainboard.

who built it?

did you wire up the boost controller and/or solenoid? is the output selected correctly?
did you wire in the clutch switch? is the input selected correctly?

 

It's the ECU i have. For some reason, DIYPNP has no info at all about that model. It's not a version 1, and it's not a version 2. It's like a prototype board. I bought it used off here thinking it was a version 2. Only to find out that it's this v1.5b.

The EBC is wired into an evap wire that is no longer being used, and it toggles the solenoid on and off it works fine. But the ECU is not sending the signal to it. And everything is jumped correctly going off the v2 board diagram, but it's not working because of this v1.5b board.

I think we're going to just get a proper v2 mainboard, wire everything up on that and use the microsquirt i already have.

 

there is no v2 mainboard. jesus dude.

it's not working cause of the end user.

how about this:

what output is the EBC driver connected to?
where does the EBC driver go out to?
is the solenoid connected to that pin?
is the solenoid connected to switched power on the other side?
how are the boost control settings in the software setup?
are you trying closed loop or open loop?
are your boost/duty tables setup correct?
have you tuned the PID parameters?


no, it's probably cause you have the latest v1.5b board... good luck sourcing a non-exisitent v2 board and then making it work.

 

I don't know off hand, i'll have to look at it and see beacuse i don't remember.

Okay. Well i guess maybe i just don't know how to wire it up. There is nothing online witten about my version and how or where to connect stuff to.

 

yes there is: http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/do...a_outputs.html


This shows that you can use: pa0, pt6, pt7, or IAC for boost control pins.

You'll connect one of those to IN on the boost driver, and the OUT to the solenoid itself, throught the connecotr board or out the db15.

It's not very detailed, but this is why i asked the questions I did. All those must be answered if you wanna run boost control.




for launch, it's the same thing. You need to bring 1V into Input 1 IN. then Input 1 OUT into: ADC1, ADC2, Flex, or pa0 (i use flex)

Then in the software, you must make sure the input is selected to flex and parameters like the TPS threshold and crap are setup correctly.

 

Okay, i'm pretty sure one of those was the IN, and then the OUT was wired to my yellow/red wire for the solenoid.

Also, i'm the first one to admit my incompetence around here.

This is way to new to me, almost to much at once. Thanks for the help, and like i said i'll know more when i look into it more later.

 

report back, or post pics of the board and I can help you wire it up and setup the software correctly.

 

Well. I had surgery earlier last week. So during the recovery i worked on the car. Could not get EBC or clutch switch to work. EBC was just not working at all, and the clutch switch was either working on or off... So i just gave up. I got my fans working, and still have to figure out AC.

Tuned on wastegate pressure. 8psi. The port seemed to work pretty damn good.

Autotuned for a while on part throttle, then tuned in WOT. Got my AFR's down to 12.0:1 at WOT. Still need to run autotune for a couple more hours and it should be set. It's running damn strong on 8psi. So i take it as a sign from god to not have EBC hooked up and running way more pressure.



Bunch of other crap got done. So meh. I'll just roll like this for a while. I don't want this setup to pop, i'm going broke.

 

Getting a little idle surge after it's been idling for a minute. I hope autotune can sort this all out (goes lean then corrects to rich then lean then rich then lean until it stalls). I ran autotune for a minute and it didn't do this and when i shut it off it started doing it.

Also, my one cooling fan is just not cutting the cake. I can physically see that it's not spinning nearly as fast as the AC fan. I can easily creep up to 210F just putting around town and for slowish driving doesn't bring it back down. Though i think the intercooler i put on may be prohibiting some fresh air from getting to the rad because even in traffic while moving at 35mph i start warming up. Once i turn on the AC fan ---- cools off real quick, and i can see as low as 175F when driving around. I know today is a warm day, but the days are only going to get hotter. I really can only rely on my computer because the gauge in the car doesn't start moving up till around 245F which we found out the other day.

So maybe when i come into a little more cash i'll get myself a new radiator and slim fans soon.

Good news is my intercooler works damn good. Hardly see 110F intake temps under full boost and with the air box i'm running around 70F curising.

 

datalog of his idle issue?

 

Took the car out today on the only "fun" road in Michigan. I was pretty dang impressed with the slowest turbo miata ever. The dang thing is a monster.



So next thing to solve is cooling. Just being in a pack of cars on the highway, at around 70mph not messing around just steady at 4krpm i start to overheat. If i'm not in someones draft that does not happen.

It may be because i took off the bottom plastic piece under my intercooler, or because my intercooler is blocking air... Either way, i need to devise some type of solution. It is crazy to run my fans on the highway.

 

replace the undertray. don't ever run without it again

 

Good call. I'm going to have to fabricate something for sure, that way i know it clears my piping and intercooler. Shouldn't be much of an issue. But like you say, i bet 50%+ of my air is going straight out the bottom.

 

Built a piece. Might not be as good as stock, hell it might be better. Who knows.

But, it's better than nothing. Though today was not 95F, i could tell it was making a difference.





Mockup. It bolts into the bottom of my intercooler, then onto the stock plastic location on the bumper.


Finished product. Lets try not and tell me how bad my tow hooks, and paint job is. Thanks.


Did a little more bending to best channel air up.


Zip ties will be replaced with stainless hardware. Just not at the moment, not that zip ties are really an issue, and probably better in a weight savings way.