1.6L 2560r record attempt - Page 16 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 02-19-2013, 06:27 AM   #301
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Dan, just something that i read and filed away for future reference.

Pretty sure Emilio started out with a splitter but ended up with none due to balance.

As such it wouldn't surprise me that you sawzall'd yourself down to a minimal or no splitter yourself.....ps - I agree re the comments, you need a v2 air dam to keep with your quality build so far....

ALso, not sure if I missed this but the air intake behind the rad is for a reason....? It certainly looks like you have room over behind the passenger headlight area...as mine and most (?) others are....naca duct headlight feeding cold air direct to the pod.

My little tidbit to add to your request for knowledge is that the race car i bought my running gear off runs a 50mm alloy Rx7 radiator. This 1600 (with t28 @10-12 psi - 240whp) temp does not budge at all despite full thrashing all day at 28-30 deg centigrade (not as hot as you get but sort of close...). This is without a reroute, although I am tempted to fit my M-Tuned re route simply to tidy up the engine bay....now thats some RICE!!

Keep posting , loving it!
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:35 AM   #302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mx5-kiwi View Post
Dan, just something that i read and filed away for future reference.

Pretty sure Emilio started out with a splitter but ended up with none due to balance.

As such it wouldn't surprise me that you sawzall'd yourself down to a minimal or no splitter yourself.....ps - I agree re the comments, you need a v2 air dam to keep with your quality build so far....

You could be right, thats why I started as big as possible, so I have it covered.

ALso, not sure if I missed this but the air intake behind the rad is for a reason....? It certainly looks like you have room over behind the passenger headlight area...as mine and most (?) others are....naca duct headlight feeding cold air direct to the pod.

The entire engine bay gets its airflow from ONLY through the radiator, so unless you have a SEPERATE duct it makes no difference where in the bay the pod sits (except right next to the manifold) There isnt really space for a pod behind the headlight and the car has a huge FMIC anyway, could be wrong the dyno will tell.

My little tidbit to add to your request for knowledge is that the race car i bought my running gear off runs a 50mm alloy Rx7 radiator. This 1600 (with t28 @10-12 psi - 240whp) temp does not budge at all despite full thrashing all day at 28-30 deg centigrade (not as hot as you get but sort of close...). This is without a reroute, although I am tempted to fit my M-Tuned re route simply to tidy up the engine bay....now thats some RICE!!

Many mistakes were on this car in terms of cooling, I think it will be fine now, 100%.

Keep posting , loving it!
Thanks mate, appreciate the support.

Dann
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:39 AM   #303
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Bolted on the bottom support flatbar. Urethane it on after the photos held in place with the bolts.

Will run a small brace from the front splitter bracket to this flatbar to brace the lip.

Tidied up the mouth, it aint perfect yet, IT WILL END UP CUT AGAIN SO GIVE IT TIME.










Hopefully dyno thursday or friday.

Dann
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:16 AM   #304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mx5-kiwi View Post

My little tidbit to add to your request for knowledge is that the race car i bought my running gear off runs a 50mm alloy Rx7 radiator. This 1600 (with t28 @10-12 psi - 240whp) temp does not budge at all despite full thrashing all day at 28-30 deg centigrade (not as hot as you get but sort of close...). This is without a reroute, although I am tempted to fit my M-Tuned re route simply to tidy up the engine bay....now thats some RICE!!

Keep posting , loving it!
A quick note: the problem with the standard no-reroute system will not really show up on your coolant temp gauge. Your coolant may not be getting overly hot but chances are, cylinder #4 is. The only way you'll know is when it fails. Reroute should be done immediately and not just for looks!
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:23 AM   #305
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Quote:
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Hopefully dyno thursday or friday.

Dann
Do it or ban.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:36 AM   #306
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Bloody engine has had a sound I noticed on first start and idle.

I had had the timing belt off, thought id double check I didnt leave anything loose or drop a chunk of broken timing cover inside, today I pulled it apart and found the squeel was the alt belt and the sound i first heard sounds like a cracked piston.

No idea how.

I want a second opinion cos Im not an engine internals guy but I might have to pull the pistons out before we go ahead.

Dann
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:33 AM   #307
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Nitro,

While we always want to barrack a fellow battler, what you have right now looks quite dag crook. I'm gobsmacked that a Drongo like yourself produced such.

Now I'm just a Larrikin lairing it up, but what's with the knock back on the dynos? This thread had me wet, now I'm as dry as a Nun's nasty.

Rage on,
Brain
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:36 AM   #308
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What?

if you mean "please apologise for the wait" then yes, Im sorry.

But I really think I should pull the pistons out and have a look to be sure before big damage is done.

Dann
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:38 AM   #309
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why would a cracked piston make a squeal noise?
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:39 AM   #310
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The sound is coming from the front of the motor (why I immediately pulled the timing cover and redid everything). The squeel along with the mechanical sound confused me, I thought it could be a bearing or something that was dry.

Doesnt sound like an exhaust leak. Its a bit slappy, and seems to change as the car warms up. sort of seems to come and go.

I know it has a slightly dodgy exhaust gasket on that cylider so Ill check that first.

dann
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:42 AM   #311
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Stop being a Whacka Whacker and get 'er done.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:45 AM   #312
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Its 12.45am, let me sleep first.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:56 AM   #313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
Nitro,

While we always want to barrack a fellow battler, what you have right now looks quite dag crook. I'm gobsmacked that a Drongo like yourself produced such.

Now I'm just a Larrikin lairing it up, but what's with the knock back on the dynos? This thread had me wet, now I'm as dry as a Nun's nasty.

Rage on,
Brain
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:04 AM   #314
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Mine was apart for two months for a bad oil pump and it took ~30 minutes for a couple of the lifters to pump up. It sounded a lot like a wrist pin/piston problem and not like lifters in the way I was used to hearing them. It sounded much worse than the lifter noise I am used to hearing. Let it idle a long time and see if it goes away. You'll be wanting to get it good and hot to check for leaks anyway.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:59 AM   #315
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Did you machine the manifold flat after welding it?
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:12 AM   #316
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Yep absolutely but it has a cracked gasket that I goo'd up. I'll check that first.

Dann
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:17 AM   #317
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cracked gasket? and you still proceeded to put it on? lol
change it stat. we're all holding our breath for this record breaking dyno.

if it did 295 with all those terrible parts, should do 500 on the new setup.....right?

lol I'm messin with you
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:49 AM   #318
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297 mate.

Yeh could be a few things but if I cannot find it easily I dot want to risk it at 25psi.

Dann
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:40 PM   #319
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Welcome to exploration of the limits. It is a treacherous place, and pain is imminent. You will pay dearly.
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:13 PM   #320
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Dyno for what? I thought this was an aero thread. I mean I thought this was a thread about the aussie miata culture. I mean I thought this thread was about different types of turbo mani's dan can make.... errrr.
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