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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 09-11-2008, 04:03 AM   #1121
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You guys are having too much fun with this mod.

Nice work.
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Old 09-11-2008, 02:06 PM   #1122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
For the triggers and tach, pretty much anything is fine as they're pretty low-current circuits. I think I used 20ga, since I had some lying around at the time. For power and GND, the beefier the better. I'd advise at least 18ga, preferably 16.
16ga feeding some 20 ga? :-) Oddly, the ground wires are really small on those, which is weird since there's no other connection to ground. I truly don't understand why they have a bigger wire to power than ground.

But a reasonable rule of thumb: If you add the currents for two coils together (or, the max theoretical current for the wire on the toyota OEM harness), then the wire that feeds them should be able to support that much current. I.E. if they are each 20 ga, I'm sure 18 is fine.
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Old 09-11-2008, 02:32 PM   #1123
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I used 14 for power and ground, would use nothing less. For the price of a few feet of wire go buy it. Avoid the voltage drop.
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Old 09-11-2008, 03:26 PM   #1124
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Good idea. I was going to tie 6,000 lb test chain to the antena on my car, in case I ever need to tow any boats. Because, you know, I'd hate it if the rope snapped.
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Old 09-11-2008, 03:30 PM   #1125
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Quote:
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16ga feeding some 20 ga? :-)
WTF are you smoking? I said 20 for trigger and tach, and 16 for power and GND.
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Old 09-12-2008, 11:34 AM   #1126
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Quote:
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Good idea. I was going to tie 6,000 lb test chain to the antena on my car, in case I ever need to tow any boats. Because, you know, I'd hate it if the rope snapped.
Is that towards me?
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Old 09-20-2008, 01:55 AM   #1127
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Hey folks, just wanted to thank everyone (lazzer408 in particular) for providing this information. I just did the COP conversion on my 1990 miata with success. However, one interesting question / observation. I have a little single blue LED made by VARAD installed in my center console (fake alarm). It begins blinking when the ignition is turned off. It has basic wiring - constant 12v, ground, and a lead to the ignition fuse. When it senses power on the ignition line, it turns the light off. After doing the COP conversion, when the car is running, the light doesn't turn off but rather goes dim and flickers quickly. Any idea's?

Once again, thanks for the awesome info.
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Old 09-22-2008, 01:36 PM   #1128
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1990 with stock ecu? Some mod box?
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Old 09-22-2008, 09:50 PM   #1129
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1990 with stock ecu? Some mod box?
Stock ecu. Used to have Apexi AFC-2, but removed recently and installed AEM F/IC. It comes with a patch loom so that you can completely bypass the F/iC. I tried this and same effect.

Last edited by dustinb; 09-25-2008 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 09-25-2008, 10:53 AM   #1130
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I'm back after a year.

COP is finished, oil cooler is finished, coolant reroute is finished and the car runs again with zero leaks. I'm at school now, I'll post pics when I get home.
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Old 10-21-2008, 05:26 PM   #1131
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After almost a year of perfect service with my COP system my car started to loose tach signal. After a while longer the car completely shut off while driving. Almost one week went by as I broke down different parts of the wires searching for the new found issues. I found the heat from the valve cover cooked the wires and 135c heat shrink. I copied SparkTechs use of varflex Mil-spec heat sleeve to protect the wiring. I hope this will help others using COP setups.
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Old 10-21-2008, 11:54 PM   #1132
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That looks really good! Where did you get this Varflex stuff?
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Old 10-22-2008, 12:40 AM   #1133
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Old 11-15-2008, 07:24 PM   #1134
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One thing that worried me for awhile is the people who were failing to trigger the coils with their '99s. I read all around and it seems the one thing uniting them is the use of Greddy E-mangle Blue.

Maybe Brain could add to his archive summary that EMB doesn't seem able to trigger the coils when they are paired for wasted spark.

Crap! I just spent four hours reading this thread and related ones. Time to go breathe some smoky fresh outside air.
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Old 11-16-2008, 04:19 PM   #1135
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very well done with the varflex. Have any of you tried fitting some supra coils on your cars? I am just curious as to if i should save some when i try to get my miata.
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Old 12-03-2008, 01:57 PM   #1136
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Well, This was a most interesting read... I managed to find a set of COPs on eBay for 53 bux shipped. spestis, if you see this post, I'm interested in your bracket. I don't have enough posts to PM you. For those with a 99-00 running the stock ECU, are there "still" issues with the COPs overheating? This is one of my DDs and the turbo and requisite electronics will be early '09 projects... Right now, I'm dealing with suspension and drive train stuff.
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Old 12-03-2008, 04:34 PM   #1137
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Concours C14 - does that mean they are a 1400 cc now?! Heh, cool.

As to the electronics, just build a MS. Get it over with. :-) Otherwise your car will become a stack of patches on top of each other.

There is no benefit at all to COP unless you're going to significantly over rev the car (not on stock ECU) or have significantly higher combustion chamber pressures (not without a turbo).

Finish your suspension, put in an MS, and keep those sweet-deal COPs until they will do you some good.
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Old 12-08-2008, 03:43 PM   #1138
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Hi I have a mazda mx3 with a b6t GTX engine with a b6de head almost the same as 1.6l miata i have bought Celica GT COP to do the COP things

But I Also have a MS2 witch im building right now and i don't find how to run the car FULL COP running it in Wasted Spark seems easy way but any solution tu run it in FULL. Need help thnx Ah And btw im French :P

Car is now running 323 BTX B6T Ecu at 7psi TD-05 Turbo 148WHP at 6000RPM

Last edited by boisvertjean; 12-08-2008 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 12-08-2008, 03:58 PM   #1139
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wire the triggers individually into spark A B C & D
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Old 12-08-2008, 05:00 PM   #1140
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What about the MS Configuration im talking about the electronic parts.
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