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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 02-26-2008, 12:08 PM   #981
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I just fired up my COP conversion for the first time. OE ECU, 01 Celica GT coils, new Toyota connectors, and harness connectors hacked off the back of my dead OE coils. Started immediately, good tach signal, nice even idle.

I did the mounting a little differently. I used some aluminum U-channel we had lying around, plus a bracket made from .125" aluminum flat stock. The bracket bolts to the center valve cover bolt, then the U-channel is held onto the the bracket using a 10mm nut and bolt. There's nothing to keep the packs from rotating, other than the pressure from the U-channel, which is enough that they can't be moved by hand when snugged down.

Great writeup, thanks all!
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Old 02-26-2008, 01:19 PM   #982
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Nice, I like the bar - I almost did something like that myself. Heck, you could use wing nuts to keep the coilpacks "hand removable", like in a normal car. :-)

No, I tapped the plate with a $2 tap from my FLAPS. I was worried it would be too thin, but it worked out. It's only a thread or two deep, but it works better than I would have expected. So my plate is flat on bottom up to my ability to cut my bolts to the right length.
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Old 02-26-2008, 02:13 PM   #983
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looks good, this thread has helped out a lot.
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Old 02-26-2008, 03:14 PM   #984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbeFM View Post
Nice, I like the bar - I almost did something like that myself. Heck, you could use wing nuts to keep the coilpacks "hand removable", like in a normal car. :-)

No, I tapped the plate with a $2 tap from my FLAPS. I was worried it would be too thin, but it worked out. It's only a thread or two deep, but it works better than I would have expected. So my plate is flat on bottom up to my ability to cut my bolts to the right length.
Thats pretty smart.

Mine sits flush as well, I just used a drill bit almost the same diameter as my flat head bolts and they tucked into the bracket.
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Old 02-26-2008, 03:31 PM   #985
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Uh huh, that was Braineak's claim as well. I'm sure it's fine, too, since there IS a gap down there. But what I don't like about it is that (it seems? Correct me if I'm wrong) to get the coils off you have to pull the plate, since there's nothing to keep the flatheads from turning.

Anyway, for all the care I put into making it, I did it upside down so my plate sticks past the back of the engine and has a gap at the front. I would concider doing a bar on the top next time, though I'm happy with what I got.

Actually, maybe I'll look at just tapping the valve cover itself next time. It's thicker, clean, and already there. I wonder if it would leak?
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Old 02-26-2008, 03:38 PM   #986
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Quote:
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Actually, maybe I'll look at just tapping the valve cover itself next time. It's thicker, clean, and already there. I wonder if it would leak?
That is what I plan to do.. Probably just put a little loctite blue on the threads to act as a sealant.
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Old 02-26-2008, 03:42 PM   #987
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you wouldn't have to drill all the way through the valve cover - you could in fact drill part way down, tap, and thread a stud. that would leave you the opportunity to use a wing-nut on top of the coil for that easy-to-remove juicy goodness.
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Old 02-26-2008, 03:48 PM   #988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebeerbaron View Post
you wouldn't have to drill all the way through the valve cover - you could in fact drill part way down, tap, and thread a stud. that would leave you the opportunity to use a wing-nut on top of the coil for that easy-to-remove juicy goodness.
It's thick, but not THAT thick. You'd be lucky to get two threads in. Still, I like the idea. The easiest thing to do would be to put a nut on the outside to lock it on, but if you have big nuts (pardon the pun) you could put a nut on the backside to hold it in.

Or a partially threaded rod. Ooooooo.... I need a lathe. Then it would go in like a bolt, and you could put a wingnut on top.

But practically, my 10mm nut driver works great.
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Old 02-26-2008, 04:07 PM   #989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbeFM View Post
Uh huh, that was Braineak's claim as well. I'm sure it's fine, too, since there IS a gap down there. But what I don't like about it is that (it seems? Correct me if I'm wrong) to get the coils off you have to pull the plate, since there's nothing to keep the flatheads from turning.

Anyway, for all the care I put into making it, I did it upside down so my plate sticks past the back of the engine and has a gap at the front. I would concider doing a bar on the top next time, though I'm happy with what I got.

Actually, maybe I'll look at just tapping the valve cover itself next time. It's thicker, clean, and already there. I wonder if it would leak?
Interesting enough you're idea is probably simpler then mocking up a bracket. Just mark the holes for the studs with a hammer and a nail, drill and tap. Granted, that is if you don't have to pull the valve cover to get the shavings.

Slick idea, but I don't think id go that route. I prefer reversibility.

I don't have to pull the plate to get my cops off and my studs dont turn either. I used a nut to secure the bolt(stud) to the plate. Put some loctite on it too, its never going to turn.

http://x024.uploaderx.net/x/172_1203896833.jpg

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Old 02-26-2008, 05:01 PM   #990
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I drilled and tapped an 1/8" aluminum plate. Used JB Weld on the threads and the backside of the plate.

some of you people over thing this **** too much.
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Old 02-26-2008, 10:05 PM   #991
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My cops bring all the boys to the yard.

Btw. Watch for a thread in the next few days for an interesting announcement if all goes as I plan.
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Old 02-26-2008, 10:30 PM   #992
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I see a few that'll work. Have a good day at the junkyard?
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Old 02-26-2008, 10:32 PM   #993
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Curious to see that one. I know at least a few of those are high current switched, not 'triggered' ones like everyone is so fond of....
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Old 02-26-2008, 10:34 PM   #994
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converting your dual plug 16 cylinder to COP?
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Old 02-26-2008, 10:54 PM   #995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lazzer408 View Post
I see a few that'll work. Have a good day at the junkyard?
Nooooooooooo
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:42 PM   #996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbeFM View Post
It's thick, but not THAT thick. You'd be lucky to get two threads in. Still, I like the idea. The easiest thing to do would be to put a nut on the outside to lock it on, but if you have big nuts (pardon the pun) you could put a nut on the backside to hold it in.

Or a partially threaded rod. Ooooooo.... I need a lathe. Then it would go in like a bolt, and you could put a wingnut on top.

But practically, my 10mm nut driver works great.
I used threaded rod tapped into a spare valve cover. a nut on the topside locks the rod in place. Topped off with some dome capped nuts, makes it look like the rest of the valve cover ones.

Pics to follow soon.

Cheers
Nuno
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Old 02-28-2008, 01:10 AM   #997
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I bought a spare 96/97 engine harness to see what it would take to make a plug and play COPs setup from the square 4 pin connector. After removing the tape to separate it from the injector harness it looks like it'll work real well. The only minor thing is that it sources ground after the connector.

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Old 02-28-2008, 01:57 AM   #998
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Orion, I didn't realize that the square plug was actually the other end of the 2 coilplugs. This really simplifies the COP harness in my mind. Thanks.
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:06 AM   #999
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Well there goes all the engine harnesses for Miatas. lol
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:32 PM   #1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ampz View Post
I used threaded rod tapped into a spare valve cover. a nut on the topside locks the rod in place. Topped off with some dome capped nuts, makes it look like the rest of the valve cover ones.

Pics to follow soon.

Cheers
Nuno
yeah, I want to see this!!
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