TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28 - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 01-19-2013, 11:26 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
search "ramhorn"
Curly what should I call this........Is it ugly enough to be a Bobbitt horn?





Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Not only is it likely going to break at the collector you're going to choke up flow with that extension tube.
Leafy, I will use 5/4 inch for the runners, joined 6/4 for the merge and 7/4 for the collector, so hopefully flow wont choke. (Even with a td05)

Quote:
Originally Posted by hochkis View Post
Heavy turbo sitting out on a lever like that, I imagine it would cause alot of stress on the weld at the collector.
Good point hochkis. I guess I could brace the turbo from outlet flange back to the manifold?
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TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030194_zpsb85b958f.jpg   TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030187_zps9d192dcf.jpg  
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Old 01-19-2013, 02:33 PM   #42
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Turbo not hit frame rail? Why not do a low-mount? I had to do more customizing to the turbo housings than I would've liked, but I got it to work.
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:15 PM   #43
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Some progress over the w/e...
Made the merge (go easy on me, its the first one I tried!)

And tack welded it together


Quote:
Originally Posted by baron340 View Post
Turbo not hit frame rail? Why not do a low-mount? I had to do more customizing to the turbo housings than I would've liked, but I got it to work.
Jonathan, the frame clearance is about 2". (It could be made bigger if needs be.) Why this position? Turbo piping is straight forward (straight pipe to intercooler under light route), clears power steering, does not clash with coolant return hose, turbos fit with out clocking or wastegate relocation.
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TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030200_zps35b15421.jpg   TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030204_zps487ae329.jpg   TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030202_zps4b24a152.jpg  
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:38 PM   #44
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Stick welded
Next downpipe elbow

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TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030210_zps3d21e37b.jpg   TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030217_zpsdbc507bb.jpg  
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:47 PM   #45
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Looks pretty good, mucho better than your last config. However, i'd agree that the turbo will be a "lever" on the manifold and add extra stress. Perhaps you should add some bracing?

Should have made it unequal length for more scoobie rumble
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Old 01-23-2013, 12:34 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
Should have made it unequal length for more scoobie rumble
I agree, scoobie rumble sounds glorius. I don't know if it would suit my anemic mx5.

Name:  manifold_zps2aef892d.png
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Just curious, has anyone used reversible manifold flanges? Theoretically the same manifold could be used for fwd/rear or low/high turbo placement?
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TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-flange2d.jpg  

Last edited by sturovo; 02-04-2013 at 02:15 PM.
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:01 AM   #47
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Almost finished the downpipe (70x1.5 304) but ran out of electrodes

opened up the input, hopefully giving better wastegate flow.

I am curious how this will flow
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TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030233_zps61736e25.jpg   TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030235_zps33385fe9.jpg   TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030242_zpse894b98c.jpg  
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:39 AM   #48
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i'm running a subaru/IHI VF10 turbo on my 1600. its a great turbo. good response and holds boost to redline. the best bit is the suby turbos are dirt cheap compared to the nissan/garret ones.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/264041...a-mx-5/page-6/
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:21 PM   #49
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Continuing in the tradition of answering questions that no one is asking I hacked together a reversible manifold suitable for both subaru and t2 flanges. (Mild flanges / stainless elbows.)
Minimal effort involved as the long radius bends line up well and stick welding is hyper fast.




Attached Thumbnails
TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030265_zps06b68091.jpg   TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030274_zps3699fa24.jpg   TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030278_zps234a0a46.jpg   TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030269_zps8e6874f4.jpg   TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030270_zpsb8b4682f.jpg  

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Old 03-05-2013, 03:00 PM   #50
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I am continually amazed at your skill with a stick welder.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:46 PM   #51
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What kind of stick welder? How do you get it so clean with out splatter???? Please make a how to. Stick welders are cheap, if i can get welds like that i would consider getting one.
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:05 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4sfed5 View Post
i'm running a subaru/IHI VF10 turbo on my 1600. its a great turbo. good response and holds boost to redline. the best bit is the suby turbos are dirt cheap compared to the nissan/garret ones.
I concur 4sfed5. My take on turbo sizing is to use the smallest one that reaches your power goals.

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Originally Posted by baron340 View Post
I am continually amazed at your skill with a stick welder.
Thanks Jonathan. I learned by watching this video

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Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels View Post
What kind of stick welder? How do you get it so clean with out splatter???? Please make a how to. Stick welders are cheap, if i can get welds like that i would consider getting one.

Rick, I have a basic 100$ inverter. I am no expert but what I have found out so far is that usually spatter is either caused by too much current or drawing too long of an ark.
Controlling slag is the difficult thing with arc welding. I use lighter shade glass as it makes seeing the metal/slag boundary easier. Using gravity is also a big help as is selecting the correct electrodes. There are characteristic sounds for good and bad weld formation.
The stainless steel I used in the manifold is 2mm thick. This is ideal for welding electrode +ve with 1.6mm rods as you can get full penetration on a continuous pass and not get much spatter. I use a chipping hammer and coarse wire wheel to clean the welds. (That's why they look clean ) Safety glasses are a must with stainless electrodes as the slag explodes off the weld when cooling.
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TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030279_zps914b29b2.jpg  
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:49 AM   #53
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This manifold fit for greddy td04H 15G??
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:25 AM   #54
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I guess yes if it has a rectangular t2 flange.
http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/tk010p.jpg
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:00 PM   #55
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I always see those videos and think, "yeah, yeah, I can weld. I can do this!"

Then I rage quit.
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:22 PM   #56
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Fabbed a new t25 downpipe elbow from 70mm x 1.5 mm stainless tube and 5mm mild flanges. (The old one was suitable for a horizontally mounted turbo.)

I tried some different electrodes (309 vs 308) which lay smoother beads?
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TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030310_zpsc2e7893d.jpg   TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030305_zps74d147dd.jpg  
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Old 03-25-2013, 12:45 PM   #57
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Great skills. You should perfect the measurements and offer a manifold to those choosing this route.
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:20 PM   #58
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Thanks Jae-Rex for the vote of confidence! If I was thinking about trying a variation of this manifold next....
AutoSpeed - Making Turbo Manifolds, Part 2
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:00 PM   #59
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Variation s4.
Both t2 and subaru turbos can be high or low mounted with this manifold.










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TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030337_zps04da591e.jpg   TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030336_zps1c75d6ed.jpg   TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030347_zpsaabec2aa.jpg   TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030348_zps588190bb.jpg   TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030360_zpsdd5376b4.jpg  

TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030351_zpsf6edc536.jpg   TD04/TD05 fitted in place of T25/T28-p1030337_zps04da591e.jpg  

Last edited by sturovo; 03-29-2013 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:18 PM   #60
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With the low mount version, are you able to actually put something off the end of the compressor inlet?
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