I am at my wit's end with my outback. It has been one problem after another for the last 4 months and this one has me a little stumped.
Was driving home about 3 weeks ago and the car stalled (2005 OBXT 5MT) pulling into traffic. Wouldn't start, made a lot of in-dash clicking noise and all the lights blinked on the dashboard. Acted like a bad relay or something, but when somebody jumped it, it started right up. Replaced the battery and it's been starting fine ever since. Until this morning. It stalled while sitting at a stoplight this morning on my way to work, and did the same clicking/blinking/nonstarting thing again. Stoplight was on a hill, so I bump started it and made i to work alright, but now it's dead in its parking spot. So, either it wasn't just the battery before and somehow replacing the battery fixed it temporarily, or my new battery is junk alread. If the new battery is junk, it is either defective or something in the car is killing the battery. There were no lights on the dash prior to either of these events. What should I check? I'm going to take a multimeter out at lunch and check the voltage on the battery, and check the connections on the battery. Is there a relay that could be going bad? |
Originally Posted by skidude
(Post 1362512)
I am at my wit's end with my outback. It has been one problem after another for the last 4 months and this one has me a little stumped.
Was driving home about 3 weeks ago and the car stalled (2005 OBXT 5MT) pulling into traffic. Wouldn't start, made a lot of in-dash clicking noise and all the lights blinked on the dashboard. Acted like a bad relay or something, but when somebody jumped it, it started right up. Replaced the battery and it's been starting fine ever since. Until this morning. It stalled while sitting at a stoplight this morning on my way to work, and did the same clicking/blinking/nonstarting thing again. Stoplight was on a hill, so I bump started it and made i to work alright, but now it's dead in its parking spot. So, either it wasn't just the battery before and somehow replacing the battery fixed it temporarily, or my new battery is junk alread. If the new battery is junk, it is either defective or something in the car is killing the battery. There were no lights on the dash prior to either of these events. What should I check? I'm going to take a multimeter out at lunch and check the voltage on the battery, and check the connections on the battery. Is there a relay that could be going bad? |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1362518)
Did the airbag light come on before it died this most recent time? In my car that has been more sensitive to low voltage than the battery light. Though the failure mode for my alternator was to output less and less voltage as the days went by. Maybe there's some weird computer shit going on and disinfecting the battery will fix it.
I'll read the codes when I get home, assuming I can find somebody to jump me after work. |
buy my 05 obxt 5mt as a parts car.
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 1362524)
buy my 05 obxt 5mt as a parts car.
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exactly.
Mine will be for sale once wifey finds a 3 row crossover she likes. |
Turns out the positive battery terminal connector is FUBAR. The nut was tightened, but it was still a little loose on the terminal. I got it seated better so it will get me home alright, and then I can take it off and clean it, adjust it, or decide it needs to be replaced.
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Originally Posted by skidude
(Post 1362554)
Turns out the positive battery terminal connector is FUBAR. The nut was tightened, but it was still a little loose on the terminal.
Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 1362527)
Mine will be for sale once wifey finds a 3 row crossover she likes.
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new terminals are 5-10 bux. if ever in doubt, replace
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1362557)
new terminals are 5-10 bux. if ever in doubt, replace
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Originally Posted by skidude
(Post 1362560)
I've never replaced them before. Do I need any special tools to crimp new ones on? I was in the parking lot in my office clothes at lunch so once I realized what the problem was I didn't look too much further than that.
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You can do the crimp on ones with a hammer and punch in a bind. The actual tool is basically the same thing, but in a jig.
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1362595)
You can do the crimp on ones with a hammer and punch in a bind. The actual tool is basically the same thing, but in a jig.
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I have one of these from Harbor Freight which I use for crimping big-ass terminals:
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_11366.jpg Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool --Ian |
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1362606)
I have one of these from Harbor Freight which I use for crimping big-ass terminals:
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_11366.jpg Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool --Ian |
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1362608)
Can I borrow that at laguna. I need new battery terminals.
--Ian |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1361568)
ditch the garbage oem 2port for a hallman pro rx
(assuming no boost leaks or bad wga) 16bit ecu is notorious for having archaic boost control that is almost never smooth when going past stg1 Fixed a couple of intake piping leaks and installed the mbc. Car is running much better now. Thanks |
:likecat:
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I keep having naughty thoughts of buying a 5.0 (or a terminator cobra which is my guilty pleasure) but I'd probably have to sell the STI. :hatecat:
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Only one thing to do: 5.0 swap the STi
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