DAMNIT - I'm doing it too!

OK, Domestic is out the door. International will leave Monday (takes me longer to process those).

Peasants! Rejoice, for I haz a tracking number.

I still have no tracking number. I am a sad boy.

Tracking # here too!

Got mine. Sav do we have to sign for the box?

Shouldn't need to.

im excited. hoping for a tracking number soon.

Mines says it will deliver Thursday. I know the DPs are not til late March but sure hope they come in around the 15th. Fits my plans so very well if it does. If I have to wait much longer I may have to duct tape the turbo to the hood so I can look at it while I drive. lol

Cross posting here from my build thread, because everybody likes pictures :D

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456287463

mmmmmmmm cast stainless... :homer simpson drool:

I got my turbo today, but no manifold. I guess they are shipping separately?

Got my manifold and studs last night, yay!! Sav, what do you think about ceramic coating the manifold? Also was sort of wanting to put a EGT probe on it. Would I be stupid to use the EGR hole and only monitor #4? Know that's probably not ideal but it would be nice and simple since not using the EGR.

If this doesn't answer your question, email me:

Thanks Andrew. No rush, just anxious to see the mani! I have a long to do list before it goes in (ecu, injectors, clutch,etc.)...

Manifold and studs have arrived. Need to buy more duct tape today so these can also go on the hood. lol

I got one too!

Awww yisss
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456592914
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456592914

The turbine housing in my case appears to make putting the hardware on slightly complicated, just short on clearance to seat them flat. Would you guys say it would be better to mod the hardware or the housing?

Mine also interferes on two nuts, maybe a mm or so. I was planning on grinding a bit of the housing back.

interested in those answers as well Savington!

Looks like we'll have to do a fair amount of clocking of both the crha and the compressor housing. Because of this I was considering completely disassebling the turbo, and having a little more access to bolt up the turbine.

Is it possible to bolt on the manifold and turbo as one?

And secondly can the downpipe be snaked up from below?

Are you using a gasket?

Post #139?

Are you referring to the nuts or the tabs?

Can you snap photos and email them to me?

I don't see the logic in disassembling the turbo. It's easy to access the four CHRA/turbine bolts with everything bolted up. Mani+turbo will go on as an assembled unit. DP goes in from the bottom. No gasket between manifold and turbo.

I do have at least one turbine housing here that interferes with the length of the lower rear stud, so if you encounter that, let me know.

I actually just put this back together and noticed it doesn't interfere if you mount the turbo "hanging" as it would be on the car vs assembling it how you would on a kitchen table. I snapped some pictures anyway and sent them off to info@trackspeedengineering.com.

Cool, thanks. I know the clearances are tight between the flange nut and the housing, but I've yet to see a housing that won't bolt up.

In general, if you see issues, I want pictures. I tried to put my hands on as many different combos as possible during development but you guys will inevitably gather a larger sample then I'm able to. I want to hear about the issues you encounter. :)

Sav/Lokiel:

Yes same as mentioned; I had issues seating two of the three tabs flat enough to get the retaining clips over them as the edges of the teardrops contacted the housing. Maybe a millimeter or so? For how big the EFR is compared to the Garrett its pretty tight on that flange lol. The nuts will sit fully flush, I just had to wiggle the turbo with them finger loose around for them to all shimmy on and seat. The rear bottom had ~1mm between the stud and the wastegate channel area.

OK guys, did some testing on one of my Inconel studs and I can report that it held up great to one cold cycle in my washing machine!! LOL while typing this. I need to get some sleep........

1-2mm is all that should be expected. The housing is very tight back there.

Just mocked up Richard's along with an AC bracket, compressor, and driver side motor mount to figure out where I want to drill for the oil drain. Thought maybe these pictures would help some people.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456706463

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456706463

I need to take a picture from a lower vantage point on the side.

My manifold came in Friday, I got it Saturday when I got home.
From the top it looks pretty good.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456755452

The turbo flange has some marks from machining, but is still smooth.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456755452

The flange that goes to the head has machining swirls and you can definitely feel them all. I don't think they would matter since you have the gasket that will go there. I am going to throw mine on the belt sander a bit to try to remove them all.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456755452
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456755452

I did notice some of the edge on the turbine side had a little lip on some of the circumference, nothing a quick hit with a file wont fix. I'll also cleanup the EGR as there's a little machining burr from probably threading the opening but otherwise I just want to put it on my desk at work until it's ready to install :drool:

When are the intercooler and pipings going to be worked on?

Do you have an ETA when you will be selling full kits?

Took a few more pictures of this kit on the Mobius engine, while I try to find the "perfect" oil drain location.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456880470

The drain is located directly above the mixing manifold's lower radiator hose outlet. Goal is for it to be AC and PS compatible, and in no way in-car-drillable.

Here's where I plan on drilling and having a bung welded. I'd love to hear from Savington about PS compatibility, but I'm also going to get the Mobius-mobile returned to me from storage so I can see for myself. To make it easier (if this works), the location is 1 inch from the oil pan lip, and 1 inch from the vertical lip.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456880470

That should work, but look at it in a car before you jump with both feet. There are power steering lines just behind that location, and the rack itself is also pretty close to that.

Our standard oil line kit will put the drain under the A/C compressor, and that location has worked perfectly for all applications so far.

IC and piping is in active development. Production sample IC getting built next week, in fact. Full kits will be available as soon as we are able to make them available.

Make sure to compare it against the subframe. There's a sweet spot right in front of the motor mount, but if you go too far forwards then there isn't room for the fitting because the subframe is angling inwards. I have mine a bit further back and it works well:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456884783

(the blue fitting, ignore the brass plug at the front)

--Ian

Anyone try and mate this to the MSM factory drainback in the pan?

I'm doing that* and it seems fine. I'll take a picture when I get it in.

*Garrett turbo not EFR, so it might be a tiny bit differnt location at the the oil drain source.

Looking forward to the pics.

Thanks

Comparing your photo and Curly's photo, your location would foul the 01-05 motor mount plates.

Yeah, I just noticed that, but a compromise between the two ought to work. I looked at mine last night and having it as far forward as Curly shows definitely looks like it would be interfering with the power steering lines.

Not a great angle, but the best I could do:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456938868

--Ian

No that's perfect Ian. Trimming that mount isn't a big deal anyways

Fit's perfect at expected. Pics in this post in my build thread.

All outstanding manifold and M8 stud kit orders are shipping today.

My production sample downpipe is due here next month, with production parts following ~3 weeks later if everything goes smoothly.

Got to handle one of these manifolds this weekend, it is an extremely nice piece. Congrats on all the hard work and keeping up your standards while working to get this market, Andrew!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1458285601

WooHoo, guess what the postie just delivered all the way to Oz?

First impression was that "It''s heavy!" - 5.9kgs which is a good thing, I know it can handle the weight of the EFR6258 hanging off it.

The only real work I needed to do on it was clean up a few burrs (the easy-to-access mount holes were already deburred) and eliminate some casting "globs" and ridges since I plan on getting it ceramic coated while I wait for the matching TSE downpipe to arrive.

It's well casted - I have a lot of cast iron weight plates and the cheaper ones have hundreds of these small "globs" (even the good ones have them); I suspect that the cheap plates have been sand-casted. There's a few minor creases and ridges on the outside but that's typical of castings.

The faces have all been machined flat.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1458444250

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1458444250

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...pshkzoazck.jpg

I plan to get it ceramic coated black since I think black looks better than rusty-orange and anything to reduce under-bonnet temperatures is a good thing.

Thanks again to everyone for the feedback. All the first-run parts are functional, but we're working with the foundry to improve the aesthetic qualities. This is one of their first consumer-level products (most of what they do is for heavy industrial, where aesthetics are secondary), but they're getting the hang of it.

If you don't have your manifold for some reason, let me know - everyone should have theirs by now.

A quick sneak peek at the water lines. These protos are aluminum because it's easy to work with. The final parts will be stainless steel. Still tweaking the exact fitment and fitting combo to get everything to sit where it's supposed to. We will release an oil/water line combo package when everything is ready to go.

Attachment 232684

Attachment 232685

Ah yiss!

I would offer feedback on the aesthetic quality of my manifold (emphasis on MAN - see what I did there - some people need it spelled out for them, but this is not a manifold for children) but unfortunately only my minions (whom I love dearly, and am unworthy to have, and probably would cease being my minions did I not cause their kegerators to be bottomless) have seen it.

I think they did a bloody good job for a first-run "functional" product - I doubt you'll get any complaints.

Just curious what your plans are for the water lines for people who have the front water neck blocked because of a coolant reroute? would you just say run the line that was going to that front neck to the line off the throttle body?

Will the cast stainless rust or oxidize? Any pictures of a cast stainless manifold after a bunch of use?

Stainless, not cast stainless.

It should last forever.

....can you read? First post says cast stainless.

And my stainless welded manifold is rusted already. Curious how this will look after a year.

Same as any other stainless component. It will resist corrosion, but it's not corrosion-proof. It will certainly look better over time than any iron manifold would.

The manifold in those water line pics is the first article that's been in service since October. ~5k miles of use including some bad weather and 4H-clubbing in the mud at Buttonwillow. Doesn't look new, but I'm quite happy with how it's holding up.

Cool. So if you want a "perfect" looking manifold then ceramic coat it, but it will probably look fine for a while.

How about you head over to club roadster with wanting a perfect looking manifold. Let us big boys wanting pure function enjoy what TSE has to offer.

:giggle::giggle::giggle:

Waiting for someone to grind and polish the whole thing.

You know, I just don't get it. After having dealt with the kludged together stuff from FM and BEGi, how can your stuff be so good and well thought out? And simple on top of it!

This is what comes to mind when I'm on this thread:

Curious as well, I'd rather not have the water neck sticking out if I can avoid it.

If you're not using the front water neck, you would just connect to the hose that comes from the throttle body instead. You'll need a 5/16" to 3/8" hose barb adapter to do that.

Easy enough, cool.