Yep. Swapping and documenting my first K-swap with David has consumed my life for the last 3 days (50+hrs). I'll have an email out to everyone this week.

I managed to fix the stud with a few taps of a body hammer (see my build thread w/ pics), was fairly easy and didn't require too much persuasion. Was a close one though, those threads were tough to get started. Stage8 hardware sits very nicely as well;

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462296461

You're going to have to clock that bearing housing, which means disconnecting the wastegate actuator and mount. I know you know, but in case so I know you know I know you know.

Damn those are nice pieces.

After seeing these photos, I can say that the EFR exhaust chamber casting has come a LONG way since I got my EFR6258 and explains why the Stage8 fasteners work on these newer castings when I doubted that they'd fit - there's just not enough clearance on the inside for the earlier castings :(

Currently I'm using the Nissan turbo nut locking tabs and suspect I'll need to continue using them :(
Turbo Nut Locking Tabs
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462322045

If you encounter clearance issues between the tabs and the housing, you can always trim the edge of the tab. If you can fit the nut, you can fit the tab with a little massaging.

i use these for my manifold

Product Link - Trackspeed EFR Oil/Water Line Kit

Here's the production release for our oil/water line kits. Group buy and preorder customers, check your email for coupon codes.

Ordered.

I've gotten a couple of questions that I think I'll get again, so I'll answer them publicly. Our oil line kit is configured to use the oil pressure adapter block on all 94-05 motors, including 94-95 engines that have a driver-side feed. You'll simply leave that oil feed capped. For MSMs, you'll cap the factory coolant and oil feed lines as well as the factory oil drain line and configure the oil feed/drain lines like a regular NB2 would.

Lines ordered. Shipping with downpipe requested.

^you mean the CAD model of the downpipe? :party:

Nope. If you are part of the group buy, he gave an option of having the lines shipped later with the downpipe.

Wow. It has gotten so much easier to turbo a Miata since I did it.

This is on my wish list.

Downpipe first article. God, this is sexy. So cool to see yet another idea that I thought would be a pipe-dream (four bends on the same piece of pipe) become a reality. (lol, "pipe dream")

Attachment 232679

Yeah, I think these welds will do :party: Four welds in the entire part (six if you count the O2 sensors). This is what you get when everything is made in the USA.

Attachment 232680

:drool: :party:

like

Anyone have a tissue?

Wow, impressive!

Schwing

Lines ordered
Forgot to put as willcall for shipping. If you happen to catch the order you can hold it and send with the pipe.

Curious where you are putting the o2 bungs.

I only think he put one in for the wideband, unless there is a second one upstream for the narrowband that we can't see?

I would send them an email. Andrew is quick to respond to email.

It's amazing the things you can do now with computer aided bending machines, which i assume the production shop is using. Very nice looking piece.

Downpipe E-mail?
 

Did you ever send this e-mail? If so, I didn't get it. Thanks.

Hey Andrew,
So any news on how the prototype DP is working out. Having everything else on the car including the long winded 3.6 gears I am really eager :-) So I just had to ask.

Uppers fit perfectly. 99-05 lowers checked out good, just waiting for production parts. I need to adjust the fit slightly on the 90-97 lower, which will happen this week.

Email sent!

Thanks for the update.
Do have a question. I want to put egt's in manifold. Thinking about up close to the flange for best cylinder separation. Do you have suggestions on location or concerns of drilling and tapping the manifold?

Misinformation, disregard

If your manifold has a bolt, it's tapped 5/8-11 IIRC. If your manifold has a flush plug, it's tapped 3/8" NPT.

No significant concerns, no. There should be plenty of wall thickness everywhere. Try to avoid the stud clearance pocket on the #2 runner - that's one of the thinnest points on the manifold. Other than that, you have your choice.

my bad, I dug up some bad information then. thanks for clarifying and I edited my post accordingly.

Can someone take a picture of the manifold and turbo installed in an NA looking straight down from above? The pictures on page 6 give a good idea but I need to see all around in front of the turbo. Looks like it moves the filter mount 3-4" forward according to these pics. Would like to see up to the radiator area please :party:

I want this. I want this a lot.

I also am fighting the desire to get this. Maybe when my flange cracks.

Andrew, if you don't mind disclosing, what's the next part you'll be focusing on after the down pipes are shipped? Intercooler/ piping?

Transmission solution

Intercooler and piping is next, yes. I have rough protos built but still need to polish them up and get first articles from my supplier. Concurrent development will happen on a heat shielding solution for the turbine/downpipe to keep the heater hoses, brake lines, etc. all happy and alive.

NA kit crew, please check your email this evening for an email from me regarding your downpipe size. Because the factory NA cat won't accept a 3" flange, I'll be manufacturing two different version of the NA lower downpipe. One version will have a 3"-2.5" reducer to step down into the factory cat. The other version will be a true 3" with the flange in the same place as the 2.5" version, but it will not physically bolt up to the NA cat. You can pick one or the other, or buy both for an extra fee (cost TBD).

NB kit crew, you are all getting 3" downpipes because your OEM catback will bolt up to the 3" flange.

:party:

With the short NA cat, I feel like a 3-2.5" cat or test pipe would be the better option for you, no? Keeps all your downpipes at 3".

Who are you talking to?

Oil/coolant line kits are shipping today :party:

How about downpipes?

Uppers are through bending, MFG is adding flanges and o2 sensor bungs. Lowers are starting production shortly.

What a lying prick this guy is :party: Final fitment check showed that I ordered the wrong oil drain flanges, and the oil drain lines fouled the drain flange hardware. Argh. Correct, longer flanges overnighted in, everything will ship tomorrow (Friday).

Sweet, good catch!

This is why we waits and buys what we know we wants



Edit. It occurs to me this can be misinterpreted. We = me; what we know we wants = the solution from the vendor we trust to get it right, even if it takes longer.

Hey Sav, I'm having issues with my K&N crank breather filter getting melty; specifically the part that clamps to the bung is soft and pliable. The current one is going to fall off if I don't replace it. I used to run a line from the port to a post-filter-pre-turbo bung however I have no accommodation for this anymore. Have you had any issue with this at all?

Put the breather on the end of a piece of hose and route it away from the hottest thing in the engine bay :)

This is worked for me.

Sav, just wanted to let you know I am extremely impressed with the kit. It really blows the competition out of the water, with not much more cost. Great work. I already have an FM kit, but if I build another turbo miata for higher horsepower (likely) I will definitely be going with the Trackspeed EFR kit.

EDIT: I don't understand why practically every one of my posts get's downvoted to shit. All I was doing was giving some positive feedback on this kit, and 3 people decided my post sucks? I get that yes, I have 12 posts. Yes, I am a "newb". Yes, my post offered no new information for anyone to learn from. But is positive feedback on a product seriously worth 3 people to send my feedback rating to shit?

Sav, I sent u a couple emails. Please get back to me

I'm on my 3rd week of driving with the new manifold and turbo. Things are going well, no problems to report from either. I found a few head/manifold nuts loose on their studs over the weekend, probably a result of my cross-country commute. After re-torquing them I haven't seen them loose since. Stage8 hardware is holding true and the studs haven't moved either. Replaced that breather filter with a parts store cheapie (non-k&n) and haven't had the melty issues since as well. Had to flush the brake fluid though, d4 brake fluid is already getting toasted without a shield :party:

TSE heat shield in the works? Please?

(for future readers, this is already evidently in the works)

+1

From post #338

Do you have an expected ETA for a complete kit? I'm dying to install my kit... :/ TIA!

Savington
Any news on the downpipes? Sure hope we are getting close.