So while I am not Savington@TSE, I am also working on IC setups for my mkturbo setup. One of the big reasons I am going with aluminum pipes and lots of couplers is due to the vast differences between miata's and the possible mods. I was working on single piece welded pipes for each side. The problem I saw was when I would move them from one car with stock radiator/fans/swaybar, to one with upgraded bits and having fitment issues. By using more couplers, I am able to build in room to fit around differences in the setups.

Also I am betting the initial cost for getting custom silicone pipes is rather high. FM can easily say yes I can buy 100 of each piece they need up front, TSE probably not so much.

You've mentioned a point that I SHOULD have made in my original query regarding solid pipes, there's little room for error regarding fitment so they may not accommodate everyone depending on their modz.
eg. I have an oil cooler mounted behind the coldside foglight which meant I had to shorten the FM silicone hose at the intercooler end to ensure that it had plenty of clearance from the oil fittings and lines.

I don't have any additional modz on the hotside that should cause restrictions to TSE's hotside solid pipe so SHOULD be able to use it.
I've deleted the power steering and because Aussie cars are RHD, I have more clearance than LHD cars with power steering so the TSE hotside plumbing's routing could be simplified.
I envisage that I could use most of the solid pipe from the intercooler back to the turbo but could shorten the turbo end and use a specific-to-my-needs silicone coupler for a more direct route. This would mean I'd only need 2 silicone couplers and the modified hotside solid pipe vs. the multiple hoses, solid pipes and accomapanying hose clamps I have now.

Intercooler Fitment
 

This is the last piece of the TSE turbo install puzzle that I have been trying to figure out. Up to now I have gone the easy route and purchased all items from TSE, but rather than wait for Andrew's intercooler, I thought I would try sourcing the parts myself. I purchased a Mishimoto MMINT-UZ IC (20.5"x6.5"x2.5" core) but it was too big (long) - it interfered with the AC dryer canister thing.

I'm curious which IC fits in an AC car? It looks like I need an IC with a core width < 17"...

Oh hai guyz!

Though I guess that's even wider. It's the one he'll be shipping with the A/C compatible kit though, so maybe you are mounting it in an odd place?

I made up one piece pipes for my mate....They looked so nice!
Once we got them in I was immediately concerned about engine movement cracking a pipe....So we cut them in half and added central couplers.
I don't know if we were being overly concerned, but I thought it worthy of consideration.
Coming from a world of 150PSI boost every coupler is a potential failure point....especially the IC joints.
Every coupler eliminated is a step in the right direction...so long as the pipe does not crack under the stress that is!
Any thoughts here?

Hey Sav, I dug through my stuff and I found the fourth stage 8 teardrop fastener but might be missing the retaining C-clip. Does one have to buy a whole kit to replace missing hardware? Or if I grind this fastener down too far to sit on the nut would I be able to get a replacement?

I don't sell anything except the full kits. You may be able to contact Stage 8 directly and get individual replacement parts.

Call stage8. They have sent me replacement bits free of charge more than once.

Any update for the intercooler?

Does anyone have hood clearance issues with this kit using a EFR 6758 on a NA chassis VVT swap? The top of the waste gate actuator is hitting the driver's side of the hood and I have to press down and bow the hood so the latch locks. It seems to be hitting the hood structural supports or whatever the metal humps on the underside of the hood are called. I have already clocked the turbo as shown in the TSE install PDF. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
David

@Colipto had/has exactly the same issue as you. Had to cut his hood

Not sure how much it lowers the profile vs. the oem bracket but;

Low profile bracket: BORGWARNER EFR WASTEGATE BRACKET KIT

Short canister: BORGWARNER EFR SUPER SHORT CANISTER

It looks like it moves the canister down and back on an angle to keep the same actuating angle. I'm hoping to save cutting my hood.

Yes, the actuator rubs the hood on the NA. You can notch the brace for clearance, it clears the outer skin just fine. There is an alternate actuator and bracket setup that will almost certainly clear the hood, but I haven't personally tested it. If you want to jump ahead of me and try it out, the p/n is 59007119007 (bracket) and 59001107255 (low) / 59001107262 (med) / 59001107261 (hi). I am 99% sure it will clear with no problem based on the ones I've played with at SEMA and the curvature/shape of the hood. I have a set on the way right now to test.

e: Sniped, links above. If they work we'll add them to the final NA kit.

I was thinking I might have to cut the hood. I have a spare hood I can test it on. Do you know know if onky the under side needing some trimming or if he actually had to cut straight through the entire hood.

Bahurd, nice find l. I'll look into those. Kinda don't want to spend more money since I just bought these. Going to try cutting first. However, if you do try that actuator and bracket, please report your findings. :bigtu:

Edit:. Thanks for the reply Andrew. I'm going to cut my spare hood first to get by for now and if the bracket/actuators linked clear fine, then I will buy them and swap back my original hood.

Just the underbracing has to be trimmed, not the outer skin. Coincidentally, the actuator rubs right where the Singular vents go, so if you were considering running those, there's no need for additional trimming. On Rover's hood, I had to unbend one of the left side vanes, but that was it.

Seems the bracket and actuator [medium] is on backorder with an "estimated" delivery of mid/late November 2017. Guess you have the only one coming to you Andrew.

My hood reinforcement when I was out there to clock the turbo. I can take a pic to give you an idea if needed.

NB report, FWIW my hood closes. I have two, one with vents and one without. I haven't put the vented hood on yet, but the stock hood closes. It may make contact under engine movement but no obvious problems to report so far. I'll put the vented hood on for this weekend's track activities and report back.

Stock actuator clears the NB hood, the Turbosmart dual-port rubs slightly.

I am 100% sold on the current kit. However, any update on when the kit will be available with the intercooler piping and heat shielding? My new motor build will be finished in February. Sent an email several days ago but have not received an email yet.

I am getting close to pulling the trigger on a 95 with MS2 and M45 SC. If all goes well and I score the car I'll ditch the SC and pull the trigger on the TS turbo Kit. Already has ID750's some maybe just a fuel pump upgrade and exhaust will round things out.

Not sure which turbo. 6258 or 6758? Initial build will be stock block with 99 head, hotter cams and new junk 2 intake. Want to leave the door open for converting to S1 class so that's something to keep in mind too.

No ETA, but I really want that stuff on the market for Q1/18. We'll see if it happens.

6258, no question.

It's been two years since this kit has been released do you think it will be complete anytime in the next 10 years? :laugh:

you dun messed up son.

I don't think you get how these kits work.
These are gifts from the Godz, delivered to man when they are truly ready for release and only when man has shown his worthiness to receive them by waiting patiently in humble silence.
(at least that's what I told myself while waiting for the manifold and downpipe; it helped a lot and the manifold and downpipe were worth the wait).

I'll never feel inclined to apologize for taking the time to develop stuff properly. The current DIY kit took like 4 years or something to properly develop and produce, and I caught endless shit for that timeline, but I've also lost count of the number of kits I've seen in use on HPDE or road race cars. In 18 months it has gone from unobtanium to the defacto standard for a road race turbo setup. If you want to build a turbocharged Miata and use it on a race track, you call me. If you weren't going to build a turbo car because you knew it wouldn't be reliable, you are now looking at half a dozen reliable cars and seriously rethinking that position.

Emilio's recent GTA-SLB win in Unlimited RWD was powered by a 6258 setup that required no wrenching. I was at ACS last weekend with a trio of Trackspeed-powered S1 cars, all of which spent the entire weekend shrieking through T1/T2 at 138mph+, at full boost in 6th gear for something like 35 seconds every single lap. Aside from an unplugged IAT sensor there were no mechanical issues on all three cars. There were at least five TSE-powered cars at MRLS, and as far as I know there were no mechanical issues on all five cars.

So yeah, it takes a while to make the stuff work. I like to get it right the first time, and if that means a little waiting, then so be it. :)

I have like 6? track days on my TSE kit now. 5 of them at laguna which is extremely hard on equipment. Along with daily driving my car. I've had ZERO issues.




That is all.....

I've got my built motor finishing up in the next month or so, and I'd really like to get this car on the road, shaken down and ready for race season by early Q1. I'm ok with coming up with my own heat shielding solution. I'm just waiting on intercooler piping to be released. I'm not sure how much development is going to go on during the winter time for Andrew since he likes to QC his stuff on the track. I figure it would be best for me to come up with my own intercooler piping solution, considering where we are in relation to the upcoming race season. I went ahead and bought a Precision 350hp IC. The last thing I want to do is chase boost leaks in the intercooler plumbing system and FM's setup seems fool proof. I have seen a few NA's use FM's silicone piping kit with the TSE kit. Has anybody tried this on an NB?

Their nb piping is almost exactly the same, only difference iirc being on the cold side between the two. So you should be fine

Most subscribed to this thread have already seen this but I want to emphasize. The versatility and headroom of this kit is unmatched. We race the TSE EFR 6258 kit in the Maxxis Supermiata Cup series at a regulated 220whp. None of us in the series have had to touch our kits since install. Practice and race all weekend plus HPDE events. My full forged but otherwise stock BP4W doesn't even burn oil.

Load a new ECU map and do this:

Fastest Miata lap ever at Buttonwillow, by several seconds.

Super impressed. Have you posted the details of the build on the motor? I'm curious what components you're using.

Nothing special or exotic. Stock rebuild, blueprinted with forged parts for strength. 10.0:1 compression originally built for NASA PTE. TSE long block would yield the same results.

If you have no power steering, FM's hotside hose will work fine - I assume you got their radiator hose as well? If you do have power steering, like me, you may not be able to get it to work as is out of the box. I couldn't get it through the PS hoses. So I sectioned the hose into 3 pieces, and reclocked those pieces using a couple of joiners to use the MSM route behind the headlight. One straight, one 60deg. A fellow mt.net member (yank) was able to create the two joiners for me out of a single piece of 90deg scrap for a nominal fee. I did use my small air saw to enlarge the hole and then lined it with that door edge guard stuff.

Goes without saying, but you want to use quality clamps and make sure they are tight. I thought mine were, but I was wrong, and popped a couple at 11psi on the dyno.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2259ba4368.png
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3826ac5933.jpg

How the fuck is your 5 speed still alive!?!?!?!

Will this ever be a full kit? I'm not sure TSE can come up with IC routing that will fit every engine bay thats at their level. This kit is all about dead nuts reliability on the track, if they aim to get that they aim to only have 4 silicone couplers in the IC piping.

Current protos have four silicone couplers in the IC piping (turbo, IC in, IC out, TB) and clears A/C and P/S in the NB. As Richard said, getting around the PS on the hotside is a challenge. We are closer than you might think :party:

I have a 6 spd

I thought the reason the FM kit had full silicone lines was because the original BEGI made FM kit had hard pipe and the position of the engine to the tub and the hardlines varied too much for it to fit every car. Or because this isnt targeted to wine and cheesers, there's sawsall involved and almost no one is going to care.

I have no idea why FM did silicone pipes. I have my own theories, but I don't know the specific reasons they opted to use silicone. I do know that I disagree with that decision on the hotside.

I assure you that no sawzall will be required for installation of our IC pipes. Do us all a favor and enunciate your ill-informed assumptions elsewhere, please.

OOOOOOOO GOT EEEEEEM!!!!

I had almost zero issues using my FM hotside to FM2 standard IC pipe, I also upgraded to a precision 600hp equivalent size IC and combined with the location of the turbo there is only a small amount of kinking around the turbo outlet. I'm sure with some additional work I can get it perfect, but it would require trimming and I just ran out of time and it's had zero issues performing.

I've been holding out for a heat shield update but will probably just wrap my downpipe instead.

I can take a couple pictures when I get home if it helps anyone, but I have P/S and no A/C in my NA and had much less trouble fitting the piping than I expected... First time ever doing anything of this sort and it basically took two 90 degree aluminum bends on each side, with 4 total couplers (two 90's on the cold side, a 90 and a 45 on the hot side) in the system. No sawzall, no rubbing, clears power steering (not sure about A/C as I don't have it anymore).

This thread is loooooonggggg. I haven't followed it in quite some time. Excuse my request for spoon feeding but I feel like I've earned enough respect in the socal track community to ask stupid questions lol.

Just how long would a stock long block hold up under track usage in the 200-250whp range? Assuming typical track guy ancillary mods are done along side (proper cooling, oil cooler, etc) Asking for a friend of course...

The answer, like your "friend's" underwear choice, is: depends

Fortunately, I think Andrew knows me and my car well enough to read between the lines of what I'm asking. Or maybe i assume too much. And you know what happens when you assume.... ass party. Or something like that.

The answer is that his question doesn't belong in this particular vendor thread.

One missed shift can compromise a stock rod.

200-250 is a big range. 200whp, forever. 250whp, 3-18 months depending on your karmic status in the universe. Torque is the real killer as well. We set S1 at 220whp/210wtq because I feel that's a power/torque level where you can consistently expect to get at least a full season (10-11 races plus practice) out of a stock bottom end. At that power level, the failure mode is the same as stock - power slowly falls off, and then one day you notice it's consuming a lot more oil than it used to. At 230 or 240wtq, you are more likely to frag the block than you are to wear it out.

Start at S1 power, and if you decide you want more, then do a rods-only style build with a stock piston, rods, ACL bearings, and ARP mains. You can put that motor together for about $650 in aftermarket parts, plus the cost of a standard shortblock rebuild (hone, fresh rings, fresh oil pump, fresh gaskets). That's what I did in Rover, and that motor is bombproof to the ~280wtq mark. Add pistons and an oil pump to that formula and it's safe to ~400wtq.

That sounds awesome and I'm stoked that you push the limit with Rover like that!

That said, if you're using stock pistons and fresh rings, wouldn't you expect it to last the same amount of time as a stock motor with regard to oil consumption? Isn't the failure mechanism there just ring blow by due to accelerated wear?

(Question was posed by a friend and I'm curious as well!)

I hate bumping my own question, but... bueller?

Thanks in advance.

I am not really one to answer but I would assume that the life would be the same as a stock new motor.

Dono, don't have the data. I'd expect it to have a little less life expectancy than a stock one, but not much. It depends on how much power/boost you are stuffing through it.

That makes sense to me.

Thank you kindly sirs.

EFR Compressor Housing
 

Hey Sav,
Would you be able to supply the EFR with the 90 degree compressor housing? If so what would be the price difference? Looking at Intercooler Plumbing options.

Email me

Looked at your manifold on the website, Does the listed price include Inconel Studs and stage 8 locking hardware or would those be a seperate purchase? I don't recall that info on the thread so forgive me if i missed it.

Can I get the EGR bolt size and pitch? I plan to drill/tap it and route an EGT pyrometer into runner #4.

A full Trackspeed stud kit (studs, nuts, Resbond) is standard with every kit.

Plugs are 3/8" NPT, bolts are 5/8-11. Only the earliest batch of manifolds have the 5/8-11 bolts.

[QUOTE=Savington;1462449]A full Trackspeed stud kit (studs, nuts, Resbond) is standard with every kit.

You and 949 are the best <3

[QUOTE=503TurboPeru;1462459]If you're buying just the manifold, then it won't include the stud kit with the locking hardware.