The upgrade works just dandy. We did it on my friend's car with an LC-2 when the connector managed to fall on the down pipe and melt. New cable and O2 sensor, switch it to 4.9 through the serial connection and it worked perfect.

Cool. Rear bung it is, then. I hope my current wiring reaches that far.

I'll be running this setup with a 5 speed. Until I break it, then I'll put in my other 5 speed.

After that.. I have no idea.

Just de-nubbed the 5 speed. Angle grinder through about half of it, then hit it with a hammer (the thin disk was getting bound up and I didn't want to lose an eyeball).

Attachment 232668

Trackspeed EFR Turbocharger System

DIY instructions can be found at the bottom of the product page.

Deeeeep

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4985eb2fee.png

Instructions unclear, penis stuck in rope. Please send RMA :giggle:

Actually, I really like your instructions. Kudos sir :bigtu:

Time for the sawzall.

--Ian

I have a 2001 Miata but am running a block from a 1994 with oil and coolant feed on the side of the block. What parts should I order? 1994-1997 kit or 2001-2005 kit?

Order for your chassis, not for the engine in it

Any idea on when you plan on having the intercooler kits ready for or close to production?

I know better than to publish ETAs on products that are still in active development :)

Smart man. We'll just sit here and wait impatiently anyways

"They will be shipped within a few days...from when they get finished"

"Not today, likely not this week, and probably not this month."

So the coating from Swain bubbled a slightly-larger-than a pea blister and chipped away. Looks like it goes through down to the manifold. Besides that no weird problems to report.

Pics?

our lil delayington dun growed up and learnt from his misturks :giggle:

:likecat:

delayington :rofl:

Lol IRL @ "delayington" :rofl:

Intercooler?
 

Any updates?

I am pretty sure Savignton isn't going to say shit about updates for it, until it is done, on the shelf, and ready to ship.

So is this kit going to work on the new EFR 5951?

Yes and no. The 5951 isn't a B1-frame turbo, but it will have a T25 turbine housing. As soon as I get one, I'll start work on a 5951-specific downpipe for it.

Keep in mind that the 5951 is at least a year away from production, according to the rep I spoke with at SEMA. Think 2018.

Damn, the 5951 is going to be the perfect turbo for this.

Sounds like 2018 is going to be a good time to buy a cheap turbo setup!

When the 5951s are actually available (i.e. in 12-18 months) we can discuss them more. For now, let's keep this thread on topic (6258/6758/7163 kits).

Andrew, you have email.

Sav,

Placed an order for a 6258 kit, sent you an email with some questions last week, please reply. from (Boris)

Big batch of turbos shipping today from my distributor. The 6258s have been a little hard to come by, so it may be 6-8 weeks before I see any more. If you want a turbo this spring, I would suggest ordering ASAP :)

I feel like there is some guy out there in the world who randomly decides to make turbo's hard to come by. With what your hearing, currently that makes Garrett 2554, T3 ChinaChargers, and the 6258 all hard to get at the same time. It is a little weird how all that works.

Its almost as if there's a common supplier somewhere in the supply chain.

I attached a pic of the manifold, garage door was frozen shut all winter so I just got it out over the weekend. Circled is a bubble that I'm not touching to keep it on there - might be for naught though. Currently expected to be in the low 60s here, normally in the 30s. :D

Isnt the pipe supposed to be etched, or prepped in some manner so the coating can adhere properly? Looks mighty shiny underneath.

ROFL!
I had a BW engineer design some stuff for me.....Got to meet some higher ups there....Was cool...In a very stuffy corporate culture kind of way.
That pretty much says it all about BW from my experience.
The up tight engineering culture at BW would have an absolute jammer if any tie to a china charger company was mentioned never mind existed! lol :)
You will never see the two together.
Those cubical kings are afraid to drive certain vehicles because of the turbo inside ...not kidding!

At one point the corporate line was that Garrett was unreliable garbage, because of the ball bearing thing...A few years later the EFRs came out and that talk has since died down.
Pretty funny if you ask me!

Yes, the EFR has a better bearing system...I just thing the whole thing is funny

FYI, Borg Warner has a lot of mfg in China. They were a substantial customer for me in a previous company.

I am sure half of their stuff has made in china stamped on it.
Its the elitist attitude that I find funny. :)

Meh. There is nothing wrong with production in China IF you have your own people on the floor doing QC from start to finish. And thats a big IF.

I've spoken to some guys who work for companies that do this, where their own people do QC on the floor, on site, for every step of the process. I'm talking everything from the raw materials, production, finishing, assembly, etc rather than trusting the overseas manufacturer to do it correctly with no supervision. To a T every person I've discussed this with has said that China knows how to get shit done, but as soon as you look the other way, they will cut so many corners that your square product will come out looking round. A lot of companies can't afford to do this, and their products and reputations suffer as a result.

So if I start showing people my hideous turbine housing as proof of BorgWarners terrible Chinese production and QC process, and maybe they will send me a nice pretty investment cast one to shut me up? :laugh:

IIRC they purchased a foundry to solve that issue (poor casting quality). All the recent housings are their new shell-mold housing which has exceptionally good finish, better than the investment housings IMO. Such is their commitment to QC.

I know of several Aussie companies who've had the same QC issues with components made in China.
It seems to be part of the Chinese mindset, to cut costs/corners wherever possible and the only way to stop is is to have their own QC guys watching every step of the process.
Until they change this mindset, China will never be a major car exporter because nobody will trust them not to fall apart or fail (Great Wall 4WDs in Australia have a reputation of stopping dead when driving across creeks, not enough waterproofing of electrical components).
Interestingly, despite QC issues in China, most prefer manufacturing in China than India (apparently the Chinese are more trustworthy - read into that what you will).
FYI: India would seem a more natural choice for Australian manufacturers since manufacturing in India is approximately the same cost-wise as Chine, we have close ties to India, we're part of the British Commonwealth, both speak English and are both Cricket "powerhouses" (Cricket is the one unifying "religion" in India).

I've got one of the original EFR6258s too EO2K and it's pretty rough, there's no way that Stage8 fasteners will fit unless the exhaust housing casting is filed down to provide flat surfaces for the Stage8 fasteners.
Since my exhaust housing was ceramic coated, I didn't want to do that and used Nissan fasteners instead (if I wanted to fit the Stage 8 fasteners without filing the manifold, I would've had to file down one edge of each fastener down to less than 1mm width to the stud hole - not sure how strong they'd be be after that, probably bending at the weakened points).
Now that I have the TSE manifold+downpipe, I've ordered a new EFR6258 exhaust housing (ie. better casting) so that I can use the Stage8 fasteners on it.
The Nissan fasteners may have been OK but the Stage8 fasteners are proven to work.

BW has serious corporate horsepower!
Once they put their collective minds into doing something there isn't much BW can't do.... and do well.

How long that takes?.....
I heard about a turbo that was "light years" ahead of Garrett in 2006-2007....Not sure when the EFR came out, but they don't move quickly! :)

That's a seriously good move on their part. I've seen and handled the newer housings and while not as nice as the first gen ones, they are still much nicer than mine. I know I've got one of the housings that they pushed out to "fill the gap" during the shortage after initial launch, but its just SOOOOO disappointing to see all the glorious investment cast stuff in the literature and on everyone else's cars, and then I end up with something that looks like I made it as a sand casting project in a highschool shop class. :cry: I'm so glad they stepped up and made an effort to fix the casting process.

Mine isn't the clamping surface for the fastener, its the area of the housing above where the nut and stud need clearance to actually install. I had so little room it was actually unusable without modification. That area is where two halves of the casting come together and there was a huge seam that protruded into the space that was supposed to be occupied by the stud and nut. There was no way to fit anything in that space other than maybe a hardware store cheese grade thin jamb nut. It took me several evenings of grinding with, of all things, a dremel and some surprisingly expensive tungsten cutters. Pretty pictures and reading here: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...8/#post1170740 My favorite part is the void I uncovered in the casting :hahano:

I forgot about that. You're a saint, Gordon. I'd have made a large stink about that one.

I haven't seen one that bad in a while. Our standard EFR 8mm stud package would fit in Gordon's housing pre-modification, though. I actually got the drawing specs for that area from BW during design on our studs to make sure of that. It's not an enjoyable installation, but on the plus side, the nut will never come off accidentally :)

When I ended up clocking it for him I basically said: "if a housing like this was shipped to me, I'd put it back in the box, go #2 on it, and send it right back"

lol

The issue with India is infrastructure. Factories have dirt floors where they have concrete in china. They dont have consistent power from the grid so they have to run on generator power a lot. If you get a supplier from there like IndoMIM that have their infrastructure shit together they're just like working with a supplier from USA or Europe.

- they're also more likely to make their own copies side-by-side with yours in the same factory and sell them much cheaper under their own brand (not denying that it can happen in China too but many Aussie companies companies prefer outsourcing to China because of it, the Chinese are happy enough with their cut and maintaining the manufacturing relationship).

Hey Sav, is there any solution you might have in mind to the single stud that can't accept the stg8 hardware? I know it's a tight fit so we might be boned but figured I'd ask. I just pulled my car from storage and upon inspection noticed that the nut backed all the way out but the housing stopped it (as expected). No issues other than that to be honest.

^
These are what I used on my early EFR6258 since it wouldn't accomodate the Stage8 fasteners, Nissan Genuine OEM T25 T28 Turbo Turbine Locking Tabs:
FRSport.com: Nissan Genuine OEM T25 T28 Turbo Turbine Locking Tab

Current method here is to use Resbond on both the studs and nuts, plus the Stage 8 fasteners on the 3 nuts that will accept it. That should keep everything in place.

Can you grind one of the stage 8 tabs down? I did that on my old turbo. Ground it so it would just slip over the nut

On some housings it might be doable. You don't actually need a complete circle of points - as long as you have 7 points the tab will stay in place. I grind every tab I install now - it makes the install take much longer but the end result is far more reliable.

Did this last week. I slide the clip over at the orientation I want, mark the interference point with a Sharpie, and then use a flapwheel to skim the tab down. Takes 2-3 marks per tab, maybe 5 minutes on each one. Much cleaner install.

Attachment 232676

On my early EFR6258, doing this on a couple of the Stage8 tabs would have left the side too thin, between the stud hole and tab's edge, so would have "collapsed", which is why I needed the Nissan fasteners.
I've ordered a new exhaust housing to "fix" this issue since I'd prefer to use the track-proven "inconel studs + Stage8 fasteners + Resbond solution".

No such thing, you can grind all the way through so the tab no longer fully circles the nut and the tab will still do its job. As long as there are 7-8 points out of the 12 and you have the circlip installed, the tab isn't going anywhere.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9e7b2702ea.jpg

The guys who installed my turbo also assumed that the fastener would be compromised - seemed a reasonable assumption to me too.

Wish I knew this BEFORE ordering the new exhaust housing - it really does pay to ask these questions explicitly, hopefully others will read this and know better in future.

In theory there should be very little load on the tabs. It's really just to keep it from vibrating its way into your engine bay

Sav, I don't remember seeing this answered but will your "complete solution" include intercooler setups for those of us who want to keep AC & PS? I did see you developing your intercooler setup for Acamus to keep both but were having cooling issues with keeping the stock condenser. Let me know your thoughts.

IC setup currently in development will accomodate AC/PS, yes. Design work on the IC setups is all complete, just working through the sourcing process now. Precision 350hp cores, solid aluminum pipes on both sides. Hoping to release in the summer.

Interested in the hotside plumbing - will it be possible to buy hotside and coldside components separately?

Any reason for aluminium pipes vs Silicone Hoses like FM offers?
The additional flexibility of silicone is nice - though I needed to use an additional worm clamp on one bend section of mine to preserve the radius of that section.

Will you be allowing users to choose between a 2.5" or 2.5->2.75" throttle body elbow?
(I assume that you'll use a 90* silicone elbow to the TB since this requires less room than a 90* pipe coupled to the TB via a straight hose - or are you avoiding the 90* silicone hose because they can split?)

"The Cobra" was my original DIY coldside intercooler plumbing from the Fab9 350hp intercooler to the Skunk2 TB:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1c19101378.jpg
FYI: The AIT sensor was actually installed in the intercooler's coldside tank, not the coldside plumbing.
I shortened the 2.75" side of the elbow to ensure that the coldside hose would have plenty of clearance everywhere..

I hated all the worm clamps needed for that implementation so bought a FM coldside hose and modified it:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...580613ed8f.jpg
Now I only need 2 silicone hoses and one aluminium J-bend and am happy with it - it barely moves when I shake the aluminium pipe firmly.

Thank you for the clarification. Excited to see the final product!

That is genius.