Yes, sorry. The bare manifold comes with a manifold and an EGR plug, nothing else. If you buy the full $3099 kit, the studs are included.

Just ordered the control and fuel portion for step one on my new project.

"Just ask Andrew and do what he says". Seems to be good advice. Stupid me, spent a week in Carmel and didn't think to stop by his shop while out on the left coast.

Interested when the complete S1 intercooler kit portion will be finalized?

For all those that have installed this manifold and 6758, better off installing turbo when motor in car or on stand. I love to be able to stab it assembled. If so, down pipe on ?

Thx

IMO. Turbo and manifold on, downpipe off. Downpipe just gets in the way.

So finally reading the instructions......yea well 1.5 year old Resbond now useless? The company website and information on its unused lifespan.
http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/rm_...SAAEgJLifD_BwE

Where can I get some if it is.

Email Andrew.

How comphy are you with this drain line setup?
Other than that it all lined up good. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...48eb1d8299.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...658e3273e9.jpg

Not very comfy. I'd clock the housing so the drain is slightly more vertical. Will help take the extra curve out.

Shorten the hose by 20%.
For flow, ideally you want the hose to have as few bends as possible.
For a drain, you want the hose to be descending all the way to the drain point (so aim for a single curve to the oil pan bung).
You'll also need to include enough to cater for tension relief between the vibrating engine/turbo.

What he said +

Put a 45 degree fitting in the pan. That + the vertical clocking will take many inches out of the line and not have that long horizontal on the bottom.

I'd do all three. Clock it a little bit for straight down exit. Shorten the hose. Put a 45 on it.

Edit: which is in fact what I did to mine.

No. Bad. 7 years of bad luck on you. On an EFR, CHRA clocking is dictated by wastegate functionality and nothing else.

Mike, have a hydraulic shop shorten the hose if you want to use the MSM drain location.

Oh true I forgot about that. Make sure the wastegate is correct then, and if so shorten hose. But it almost looks like the wastegate bracket could move to the next set of holes.

Listen to Andrew. It's his kit.

+1
I found this out the hard way.

When using an EFR turbo, you build around the wastegate actuator.

You might be right about next set of holes.. I'll have to see. Even with the hose shortened 5" IF I could clock it a few more degrees would give it a straighter shot, and adding a 45* is a no brainier.

Also no. Assuming the setup instructions were followed, it's as vertical as it's going to get. If you reclock the CHRA, none of the water lines will fit properly.

This is a non-issue if you just use the standard non-MSM drain location. The hose is designed for the non-MSM standard location. If you want to use the MSM location, just have the hose shortened. It's not designed to be used as-is in the way you're attempting to use it.

Again, don't fuck with the CHRA clocking. Set it up per the instructions.

Will do. I'm getting hose made today 4.5" shorter. Thanks!

THIS will flow. Few adapters needed. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ad6c76adbc.jpg

Finally.

Precision 350HP bolt-in, plug and play for NA/NB, AC compatible. I think I've been through 4 or 5 unique prototypes, first for core testing (functionality), then to tweak location/fitment, then to tweak again for ease of production (read: making it cheaper). MSRP in the ~$400 ballpark. Pre-orders for May delivery will be on the site next week.

This is the base for what will become the standard intercooler package for our EFR kits (this IC + IC pipes).

Attachment 232675

precision for the win

Will this include a welded bung on the coldside for a GM IAT sensor?

It should at least be offered as an optional extra - I'm betting most would want it rather than tapping it themselves and hoping that those 2 or 3 tapped threads hold up over time.

LIKE

I am torn on the drill+tap vs. bung thing. On one hand, yes, a bung is "better".

On the other hand, it is a lot more expensive, and IMO unnecessary. The wall thickness of the intercooler endtank is 3/16", which puts 3 complete threads in the endtank if you drill/tap to 3/8"-18 NPT for a GM IAT sensor. The oil pan is thinner than that, and the kit requires that you do exactly the same thing there (drill/tap). Drilling/tapping the IC endtank has been standard procedure here for a couple of years, with no issues with functionality or concerns about the threads pulling out. Remember that you're threading a brass sensor into the threads, not steel.

I am loath to add the cost (it would add ~$50 to the part) to gain zero functionality over a simple tapped hole, personally.

Product page up here: Trackspeed 350hp Intercooler

Agreed on the end tank thickness.

But welded bungs are sexxxxy.

I've put an AIT sensor in an aluminum intercooler pipe. One thread is all you need to hold it in place while the JB weld sets. Those giant cast end tanks on the Precision cores need no bung.

JB for the bunghole?

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...52eb8b29ec.png

Hey Savington

Could you provide us NA owners with an update on when you're getting downpipes back in stock for our cars?

Savington - For some flexibility to installations, I have used a PCV grommet with the GM plastic IATs without any troubles on a couple cars. That is in street use and 15 psi max. Though with a BOV it was obviously higher at times. I have never had one come out. Have not pressure tested a pipe for what would blow it out or cause seeping. ( might have to do that) The 01 for the first time has it in the intercooler with a grommet but all the others were in the piping. Over 20k on the 01 and close to 50k on the 95 I think. I was going to weld one up but since they have not pushed out or appeared to leak I decided not to bother. My backup plan if they did exit was going to be a washer style bracket with tangs that slipped over the IAT with a couple zip ties. (On the piping of course). Just thought I would share. Your kit is amazing and top notch. I have not had to do any maintenance to my system. I love it. No leaks, no re-tightening of bolts. No fuss. PCV grommets don't fit the theme of awesomeness you have built so I get it if not your cup of tea.

Unsurprisingly, I would strongly recommend against using a PCV gromet or any method of friction-fit to secure an IAT in a boosted system. Our kits will use 3/8" NPT threads to retain a proper GM IAT sensor.

Does anyone have photos of hot side piping for the NA?

Surprised there are not more pictures of these kits installed in general actually..

Must be because everyone that installs one just can't stop driving it to take pictures :party:

most of the photos are in build threads. So find one with a TSE kit and start digging.

I asked this question last week in the DIY section. several good suggestions

https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...-piping-96640/

I've done a lot of digging.

Thanks! Hope to see your results when complete.

I finally got my Trackspeed kit installed and my car ready for our first Time Attack event of the year. Cars are classes by power to weight ratio. I have to give huge props to Andrew on this kit, first event out and my co-driver not only won our class, but set the fastest time of any street legal car, even those on Hoosiers. We were on 245 Maxxis VR-1s. We never turned a wrench and only fiddled with tire pressure...what an amazing kit! Car was running 8 lbs. of boost on E85 with the 6758 EFR to stay below our classes 9:1 weight to power ratio.

FYI...I run the Flyin' Miata silicon intercooler piping and it works beautifully with the TSE kit for those waiting for a final solution. I run the Treadstone TR6 intercooler with the inlet and outlet towards the bottom of the intercooler, I don't think the FM pipes would work with an intercooler with the inlet and outlet in the middle.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f2f76e4d0d.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c75d6bdca0.jpg

Hey, thanks for this. I was contemplating running the pre-formed pipes as well, with the outlet clocked downward as they use it. Just ordered my TSE kit and working on piecing the plumbing together.

Congrats! Does the downpipe insulation work well or are you going to add a heatshield as well?

I'm using a product called Heatsheild Armor on the downpipe, it is a fiber based insulation with a metal backing. It holds the shape of the downpipe well and just needs a few exhaust zip ties to hold it in place. Between that and the gold reflective tape, it seams to be addequite for street use and Autocross/Time Attack. I think I would want to add a heat shield if I were to do extended track sessions.

Whoops, double post, this can be deleted.

Trackspeed Engineering EFR6258 kit with "Medium" waste gate actuator

Another dyno from Bullet. Stock BP4W head, ST double valve springs, forged internals, squaretop, 3" exhaust, E85. 23-25psi
Low line is the map from the last Supermiata event we ran at ACS, 220whp. This is our spare motor for UTCC/Hyperfest in a few weeks. We'll swap in a whammy engine, +2 CNC BP6D head, cams, coatings, etc. That one should make another 30-50whp we think.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...809f7dc6ec.jpg

Inrerco
 

Edit.

Gents, respectfully, please start another thread to discuss using FM's piping. Our piping kit will be out shortly and I don't want to confuse anyone who reads this in the future.

Well that gives me a glimmer of hope with Andrew's kit (6258) on E85 with a 3" exhaust. In addition to the built bottom end, my engine builder ported the head and the Skunk2 manifold. Car goes on the dyno two weeks from tomorrow.

It will be a good test of the limits of the 6258 for sure. I'm interested to see what the smallest turbo will do on the baddest motor :)

Turns out Vegas' BP6D long block has stock cams. Got it confused with OGK's motor. All the other bells and whistles though. Still thinking 420 or so. Should be able to dyno next Tuesday.

Sav - I've been trying to get a hold of you via email/calls for about a week now. Please shoot me a call or email when able.

Greg A -

If you're waiting on a call or email, I should be caught up by the end of today. I was out Thursday/Friday of last week.

YES!!

Well done. Excellent demonstration of what moar head flow and vvt can accomplish

Holy shit.

It's easy to lose sight of just how freaky this turbo is. This is the same turbo we're using on all the S1 cars (Bullet included) and they spool instantly. Like, better response than a GT2554R above 3500rpm. The whole focus of the kit, in fact, was on optimizing that spool. We knew they would make the power on top regardless, but god damn. 400whp from the smallest turbo available.

So wild. :party:

Those numbers are just so friggin wild!!

I'm building an HPDE car, not a race car, and I've been eyeing this kit for awhile. Is there any chance a version of this will go out for CARB approval (when a full kit is finally developed)?

I would LOVE to have a street legal track car with this turbo kit, but living in CA really puts a damper on certain go-fast bits. I would happily pay the premium for this kit vs something like FM if it was offered with an EO sticker. Just wanna let you know Savington there's demand, and I guarantee I will put my money where my mouth is. lol :skid:

Keep up the great work!

-Bret

All you gotta do is take it to that guy bobs friend to smog it, slide him couple hundo and walah! Your EFR miata can now drive on the street.

Until you get pulled over street tuning and they crush your car.

nah. they will just state ref you. So spend a day or 2 converting back to stock and then add all the go fast parts back on.

Wow.. maybe I should go E85. What do you reckon that same setup will do without the VVT?

incorrect
correct

still a hassle tho

he.....LITERALLY....posted exactly what it will do. it's the other line