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Old 05-07-2013, 03:09 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by mr_hyde View Post
I see the same thing but B01A-33-061 appears to be the hub without studs for the same price. Is B01A-33-060 a complete assembly with the bearings already installed? Early in the thread Andrew said the inner seals were a PITA and mentioned a ballpark price with new ARP studs at around $100 (assuming MMD pricing).
Mazdaspeed sent me a B01A-33-060A a couple weeks ago (screwup, they were supposed to send me a *front* hub), which is the supercession replacement part from a -060. I have it sitting in front of me -- it's a splined hub casting with standard studs pressed into it, no bearings, no seals, no ABS rings.

--Ian
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Old 05-07-2013, 03:46 AM   #42
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So this is only an issue with R-comp tires (or sticky 225s on 15x9s) and lots of track time correct ? Was hoping to get my car setup to do HPDEs in the future now Im a little scared lol
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Old 05-07-2013, 03:46 AM   #43
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Yikes....I will listen to the warnings and change mine before the next event. Gotta get these on a maintenance cycle like the fronts.
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Old 05-07-2013, 04:32 AM   #44
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So this is only an issue with R-comp tires (or sticky 225s on 15x9s) and lots of track time correct ? Was hoping to get my car setup to do HPDEs in the future now Im a little scared lol
I don't think there's any real consensus of what is and is not an issue for it, aside from V8 cars running the old-design V8R hubs being a bad idea.

More torque means more load, more grip means more load, and bouncing it off berms at the track means shock loads. Any of those is going to mean a greater chance of failure, but how much is too much? No idea.

Anecdotally, I ran 40-50 track days on the original rear hubs on my 99, with R compounds (V700 Victoracers and RA-1s). I swapped them recently as a part of a (currently incomplete) ABS retrofit project so they're sitting on the workbench -- I plan to look at them closely.

The solution is to do what real race teams do. You pick a defined lifetime period for the part and then track when it was installed and how many miles/hours/track days/whatever it has on it. When it hits that lifetime, you replace it and throw the old one in the trash, no matter what it looks like.

--Ian
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:04 AM   #45
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no ABS rings.
Thanks for sharing details.
Note that ABS rings are on the half shafts.
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:10 AM   #46
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I can't believe these failures didn't result in a roll.
To roll the car needs to 'hook'. Without a wheel there is less to hook onto?
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Old 05-07-2013, 09:07 AM   #47
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I was thinking the sharp metal bits would dig into the ground once off the pavement. I've seen vehicles roll going a lot slower than Sav was going. I didn't think he would ever stop spinning.
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:22 PM   #48
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My hub failure is now up on YouTube.

Be sure to watch the rear-view mirror after the car comes to a stop .

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Old 05-07-2013, 02:39 PM   #49
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My hub failure is now up on YouTube.

Be sure to watch the rear-view mirror after the car comes to a stop .
:36 creepy but..lol
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:40 PM   #50
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:46 PM   #51
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Btw saw a post elsewhere mentioning Andrew's hub failure during the weekend at Willow Springs. The same post also mentioned another Miata catching fire and a picture linked of it. What the hell happened with that one:

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Old 05-07-2013, 03:00 PM   #52
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I didn't think he would ever stop spinning.
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Old 05-07-2013, 03:35 PM   #53
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What does anyone think a reasonable replacement schedule is? Every season?

Maybe two seasons on an HPDE car?
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Old 05-07-2013, 03:39 PM   #54
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That is the big question. I've got about 20K miles on my car since 10/2010 in 107 days on track (where a day is usually four 20-25 minute sessions), and it was a track car before I bought it; should I be concerned or not? On the plus side, I'm only running NT01s, no Hoosiers, and my power level is low.

Is this something that we can inspect with the hub on the car?

robert
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Old 05-07-2013, 04:50 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by z31maniac View Post
What does anyone think a reasonable replacement schedule is? Every season?

Maybe two seasons on an HPDE car?
Every ~150 track hours is a safe estimate. You could probably safely push that to 200 hours, but the failure mode is so catastrophic that it's not worth the risk. ~150 hours is about one year of racing for me. (25-30 events a year, 5-6 hours a weekend)
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Old 05-07-2013, 05:03 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by robertcope View Post
That is the big question. I've got about 20K miles on my car since 10/2010 in 107 days on track (where a day is usually four 20-25 minute sessions), and it was a track car before I bought it; should I be concerned or not? On the plus side, I'm only running NT01s, no Hoosiers, and my power level is low.

Is this something that we can inspect with the hub on the car?

robert
You can inspect it, but that doesn't mean a crack won't start the next time you drive it. With as many hours as you have on your car, I'd change them.
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Old 05-07-2013, 05:20 PM   #57
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Every ~150 track hours is a safe estimate. You could probably safely push that to 200 hours, but the failure mode is so catastrophic that it's not worth the risk. ~150 hours is about one year of racing for me. (25-30 events a year, 5-6 hours a weekend)
That works out to about 90 track days for me. Our local track is 5 20 minute sessions a day, unless it's a different organizer than the track itself.

I bought rebuilt spindles, with fresh hubs/bearings/ARP studs, and they have 4 days on them now. Good to know I *shouldn't* have to worry about it for awhile.
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:11 PM   #58
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I blame the track on the sebring video, not the miata's hub. I hate that turn in any and all video games I play it on, looks like they're not that far off in harshness. Glad you're ok.
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:21 PM   #59
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A respected race car builder / shop owner here in the bay area told me the original hubs that came on the Miata seem to live significantly longer than the OEM replacements. He recommended I replace mine every two years and also said regular racers should do it every year.

Andrew, I did not realize the extent of your track *****-mongering, sounds to me like you should replace every six months :-)
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:50 PM   #60
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A respected race car builder / shop owner here in the bay area told me the original hubs that came on the Miata seem to live significantly longer than the OEM replacements. He recommended I replace mine every two years and also said regular racers should do it every year.

Andrew, I did not realize the extent of your track *****-mongering, sounds to me like you should replace every six months :-)
Every 2 years? That's 9000 runs(or 500 3 person, 3 run weekends). I'm now thinking of changing mine from the OE ones on the car, but then I dont' think I'll touch them for a very long time.
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