I am going to make plates to sandwich it to the trunk lid. It is the universal style not the one specifically for a miata but I like the fact that if I ever wanna take it off all I have to do it change the trunk lid. I am going to make plates to sandwich it to the trunk and help spread the load. As far as the abs we took some acrylic from work to a shop near by to have it cnc routed to the correct size and while we were there I asked if they had any and they did. I wanted 3/16 but they only had 1/4. It was pretty cheap, it was only $60 for a full 4x8 sheet. This is more than enough to make two splitters so I will have extra left over.

 

I take it the Civic radiator didn't keep it cool? How big was the Civic one?

 

That is my old car. Circumstances at the time forced me to part it out. That was as far as I got. That is a 1jz with no sump sitting on the crossmember but a sump wouldnt have lifted it much. I'm in a position to start again but will be using an NB this time

 

Wait for it...

 

That car is the one picture that let me know that I could fit the motor in the car. I have told my friends from the beginning after putting this motor in. If I could do it again and had the money to buy what I want. I would use a nice clean NB and use a 1JZ. With a 1JZ it would be easy to get it to sit far enough down to be under the hood. I am glad to hear someone else may be taking this on. If you need any help with the wiring or any questions please feel free to ask I will help as much as possible. I hope you can get yours done faster than mine.

Also I like my 2J because it was super super cheap and the GE engines are cheap all around. Anything that says GTE has a "SUPRA" tax that I do not want to pay.

 

The civic radiator is 2 inches thick and it is a standard civic half core radiator found in a EG civic. I am not 100% sure weather or not it will keep it cool or not. I did not see any really high temps when running my car but I want to keep it safe and run a bigger one. Now that I am taking out my intercooler this will be very easy.

 

deleted because it was a few pages back.

 

What is this in reference to?

 

So this is minor update. I have been doing a lot of work to get my new daily up to speed so the miata has been waiting. I have completed extending the engine harness and will be sticking it back in the car to get a good fitment before wrapping it up. I have ordered most of the stuff for my meth injection and the couplers for my charge piping. I will then be spacing my turbo up a 1/2 inch because it is to close to the shock tower and with a new drain line that will be good to go. Then it make the exhaust that will now come out the passenger side of the front bumper in front of the wheel and all will be good to start tuning. I hope I can get this all worked out I wanna at least drive it around the neighborhood.

 

Very nice build.

 

Ok here is another update and I will get some car **** for you as soon as I can. I am waiting on my gaskets to come in so I can remount my turbo with the 1/2" spacer. In the mean time I have been building a methanol injection kit. I got a devils own pump with a 1.25 gallon fuel cell and will be running a hobbs switch. and I am also wiring in a purge switch and two leds one for system hot and one for system spraying. I have the kit almost complete except for the hobbs switch and some line to run from the pump to the engine. Pieced it all together with some freebies from friends for about $125. Should be a solid working kit and I have a few different nozzles to use and can always get more. I have also finished extending my harness and am going to stick it back in the car for a test fit this week and hope that I can get my car mobile at least in the driveway in the next few weeks. I have been working a lot on my daily lately and have not had a ton of time for this car but soon will focus on it again.

 

Ok here are the pics of most of the parts of my methanol kit. I hope this will help someone who is worried about spending lots and lots on a meth kit want to build there own as well. Fist off I got the pump for free. Some of the fittings I had laying around and the fuel cell I picked up for $50 with all the fittings and short braided line on it. It is all mounted to a piece of plexiglass and like I said before I will be using a hobbs switch to signal the spray. The nozzles and the fittings all came from mc master and I am using the push-to-connect fittings they sell and I will be using a 1/4" hard plastic line to get the methanol from the pump to the engine. I am also using a check valve instead of a soilinoid to keep cost down. The part numbers for the nozzles can be found here

http://www.turbomirage.com/water-alc...arts-list.html

only major difference in my kit versus his is mine is rear mount with plastic line and they use fuel injection hose for theirs. My way is a little more expensive but I like the way it looks a lot better.

Also Instead of using the nozzle the way it comes and using a pipe fitting to lock it into the pipe I used a 1/4" npt fitting and modified it to accept a 1/8" npt fitting on the inside and milled the nozzles down so they fit inside a 1/4" npt bung. This way I can just unscrew the 90 deg. fitting and change the nozzle without having to deal with sandwitching it between the pipe. Makes me feel better and I think it looks better.

Only parts not shown are the wiring hobbs switch (witch I have not gotten yet) and the line used to go from the pump to the engine.

Total investment is $125 for my kit.

If anyone has any questions please ask.


Meth pump and tank mounted to plexi glass


Check valve before and after assembly




Nozzle assembly before and after assembly you can kinda see the threads on the inside of the 90 degree fitting.

 

Ok here is another update on the meth kit. I have finished the wiring on that almost.lol I thought I was done until I just realized that I wired up my methanol purge switch wrong. I have a momentary switch that I can use the purge the kit and I have an led mounted next to it that allows me to see when there is power coming out of the relay. I am going to assume that if the led is on the pump is working. Of course I will be checking this all the time but I do not want to spend a ton of money on a flow gauge or any of that crap so led on means good to go. also the relay to the pump will be wired directly to the battery with a fuse so the only thing it needs is signal from the hobbs switch and its off I just hope I don't burn up a relay and have it stuck on at any point in time but once again things I will check all the time.lol Now for some more car **** all wires are soldered and heat shrunk and mounted to the plexi with nut and bolt. I hope that does not come back to bite me.

Purge switch with led will be mounted in one of the factory fancy holes that the swtich panel thing came out of.





all wired up and ready for wire mounts and relay mount.



completely wired labeled and mounted.

 

What no one loves meth?

 

NAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWWWZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ!!!!!!!1

 

lols

 

love

 

I'm just jealous, honestly. I had to sell my water/meth kit before even attempting to install it

 

I was surprised how cheap I was able to piece together a kit. I think anyone with some wiring knowledge could make a good kit for around $200 which is what the super crappy kits sell for on ebay. Plus you can dump your inter cooler if you need and just run lots of meth.

On a side note I just purchased a radiator big enough to cool egypt. It is a griffin 26"x16"x3". This will make sure the 2j stays nice and cozy.


This may be one of the bigest radiators ever put in a miata but I am not sure.



I'll get more pics when it actually comes in. I will try and get some comparison pics to really show the size of it.
Now all I need is a fan shroud and a way to mount it.lol

 

Do people even run that size radiators in a supra?