Sorry I forgot to upload the picture of the manifold all welded up. I slash cut the back of the mani to help with clearance on the booster and master as well as the brake lines. It should fit pretty good now. It is out at the machine shop getting the flange machined flat again after welding. I am waiting for the throttle body then it will be back to work.

 

Ok so now I think I have it all under control. I ordered my wideband sensor, I am going to a buddies house tonight to ****** the coolant sensor off the back of his motor so my gauge will work. I need to order a 3 foot section of -10 an standard steel braid line and I should be good to go. All the wiring is ready just waiting on stuff to come in. I have to wait for the throttle body to come in and the intake to come back from the machine shop but I should be able to put this thing together in about 3 weeks.

 

Ok I need some quick help if anyone knows. Two things, please verify that the coolant sensor that goes to the gauge on a stock miata is the one on the back of the head. Two where is the wiring located to go to this sensor. Is it bunched in with the wiring to the cas/oxygen/coil wiring that goes to around the same location. Or am I smoking crack and it is all on the font sensor.


One more thing the stock miata fan switch/ coolant sensor that I believe is on the front of the motor on the water neck. Is this and ground switch. As in could I hook a relay to this switch and run the ground wire through it and it would cycle my fan like stock?

 

1) yes.
2) not sure.

 

Ok so I got tired of waiting for the guy to take my manifold so he could machine the flange so I did it my self. I ordered some weld in bungs yesterday for all the vacuum lines as well. Here are a few pics of the flange all cut nice and flat and as soon as I get my bungs and throttle body I should be good to go. You can see in the pics how bad the flange was warped all in all I took off .060 to make it flat again. I have more than enough material left to feel safe clamping it and the flange is perfectly flat within reason of course.

 

So what's the plan for running the charge piping now???

 

idk if this has been addressed or not but was the stock clutch master cyl enough for the toyota slave? or did you swap it out?

 

johnmatt - the piping is just going to come around the front of the motor and into the throttle body it should not be that bad but I can only wait to see.

fullthrottlemiata - The stock clutch master on the miata is plenty big to work the toyota slave. I was worried about this at first but I made a custom an line from mater to slave and it feels like stock. It functions perfect and the pedal engagement height is great. So if anyone else wanted to do this swap you use a stock NA miata master with a stock sc300 slave with a custom line and your good to go.

 

Ok so here is what I got. I am still waiting for my throttle body to come in but I got my new wide band sensor, weld in bungs for the manifold, and the blow off valve flange. I also made time to make a mounting flange for my harness connectors and I think it turned out really good. Let me know what you guys think.

 

That looks quite nice. Are you going to treat the plate (polish/paint/brush)?

 

Part numbers for the connectors? PLEASE?

 

Did you steal that from Marty McFly and Doc Brown??? Just kidding man but are two plugs necessary for those few of wires or are they coming from different sources? I've been thinking of using something similar to this where the engine harness come through the firewall when I start my next project

 

Yes I am going to have the plate powder coated black when I get my manifold done as well. It will keep it from oxidizing and will look nice I hope.


I will get the part numbers of both sides of the connectors when I get home. I have to look around at my house as well I may have another set of these connectors laying around. I know you can buy them but they are spaceflight grade so they are retarded expensive. I got them from the guys at my work they were left over and as they told me if they had a new project they would not use old connectors just to be safe they would buy new ones. lol

The connector with the small pins has 5 less pins than I need and after talking to all the guys at my work that deal with these every day they told me the strain of the power and ground wires on the small pins would be too high so they recommended that I run them through the big pins. So the one connector has size 20 pins and the other has size 12 pins so that is what I had to do.

 

Ok I gotcha and I'm assuming when you say size 20 and 12 it's the same as say a 20 and 12 guage wire?

 

Looks good, nice way to clean up the harness going through the fire wall.

 

The fan switch is a ground source.

 

Yes the actual pin that goes through the connector is that size and it directly corresponds to standard wire gauge size. The only difference is the pins will not carry the same voltage as some wire of the same size.

 

So does this mean if I hooked up the stock sensor to a coolant source and used it as the ground for my relay it would work? Or do I need to hook it up another way. I would like to use the stock miata one because I have never had a problem with one so why not stick with it.

I do not want to use one of those ugly probes to cycle the fans so if anyone else has a good idea please let me know. I would use the Toyota ecu but the Toyota comes factory with a clutch fan so no fan out put is there.

 

Ok here are some more pics. I got my throttle body in last night and it is huge and I also mocked the mani up on the car again and it fits perfect. I marked out where to put the bungs for the vacuum fittings. Here are some pics of the mani mocked up, marked for the bungs, and the throttle body in comparison to a vitamin water bottle. Hopefully I can make the flange to mount the throttle body to the mani today and then get it powder coated by this weekend. Sorry my camera was acting shitty yesterday so some of them are a little blurry.











Also here is a pic from underneath showing the clearance. I have to reroute my fuel line to make it work better.

 

That's a lot of bungs! Why not run some of the pressure/vacuum lines in series? Also the fitment of that manifold looks good.