What? Are they all aluminum now? When did BW start doing that?

Also, I'm smoking crack and my tag is black.

 

I thought they weren't being released for another couple months?

That is awesome if so!

 

I believe they still have the iron supercores available but this is the first time they gave us the option on our last stocking order. Is was a bit of a price difference but it saves around 4lbs and likely has thermal benefits.

 

So looking at this Vband 6258 EWG, it doesn't look much longer than a regular 2860 or 2871. It looks considerably shorter than the IWG.

Do you happen to have dimensional measurements for your turbo Jeff in comparison to the 2860? Gears in my mind are turning..........

 

When I get down to st George today I'll take some measurements for you.

Or maybe I shouldn't and save you some money...

After researching the aluminum CHRA assembly weight savings, from what I read, Bryan may even be on the conservative side. The few threads I read mentioned 6-8lb weight difference. That is huge.

EO2K, I'm going to weigh mine tomorrow, if you can do the same it'd be interesting to see the weight difference between both our turbos.

 

So this is going to sound like a really dumb question, but what is the biggest differences between say an EFR and a Garrett 2560R or similar?

My plan currently is to go with the China Charger T3, but these are so amazing looking. And I can only imagine the performance.

Like we were saying with budget, by buying this or a higher quality Garrett, my build could essentially get more expensive based on other items I'd by to match everything up.


That being said, an example would be buying Lars' kit for $1250 for the entire hotside, vs. an EFR at ~$1200+, plus the ~$800 for the Fab9 manifold. And then I'd still have to worry about everything else.

I'm rambling because I'm tired, but I'm just trying to process this. I'd assume if my power goals were elevated, this would make more sense, but I really only want 220-250, for now.

 

If you have no immediate plans to build the motor do not go efr.

 

^ What he said.

Wasn't it 99mx5 who vented his block running just wastegate pressure on startup?

If your goals are <240hp, stick with the 2560. You'll be happy with it.

Only go this route if you decide to build your motor and do a bunch of supporting mods.

The reason a lot of us are going with the 6258 is the drop in spool time and the much wider range of boost you are able to run.

 

What he means is, only go this route if you're ready to put on your big boy pants

But really, if you don't need big power you'll be more than happy with a 2560. Sometimes I think to myself that I should have just lowered the boost on my 2560 and enjoyed it rather than gone down the path I did. But nobody heard me say that!

Nice to see you got the turbo Jeff! First and biggest piece of the puzzle is in place now!

 

Yeah, I just want to get my feet wet for now, and go from there. I'm still thinking about going with Lars' setup vs the 2560 route, but who knows. I still could go either way technically. Only thing set in stone is my injectors, wideband, MS, and intercooler.

* AEM UEGO
* AEM Boost Gauge
* GT500 injectors
* FAB9 Intercooler (To be purchased)

 

I wouldn't hesitate to run Lars' setup. It is cheap and fun. Many people have used the chinese turbos with success on this forum and if anything breaks it will be cheap to replace. There is something to be said about how much less a project cars stresses you out when you don't have a lot of money in it.

 

That's good to hear. I think I'll stick to the original plan for now, and focus the rest on making the car proper. And then down the line maybe I'll buy a spare block to build and go for more.

 

Overkill? Maybe. Just don't want to run the risk of running the same lines that potentially killed my 2860. Also my oil feed line was starting to get sawed through at some point.

Plus I don't like how unnecessarily long they are. Could easily take several inches out of each line.

The air filter needs a smaller inlet size since the EFR is 2.5" vs the 3" inlet of the 2860.

Excited to try the nylon braided lines rather than the stainless.

 

Also, worth it to run a 14mm to -6an adapter to replace the banjo fittings on the coolant return/feed with a more reliable hose setup?

 

You can use a AN to NPT fittings for all the ports. I have a NPT to 10AN fitting for the oil drain and smaller NPT to AN fittings for the oil and water and use oil and coolant hoses from Artech. Abe makes the hoses with stainless braided teflon and pressed-on curved AN fittings. The silicone hoses are used to connect the coolant lines to the factory hose barbs.





Here you can see how they are routed.

 

Monk I was crying I was laughing so hard. I've never seen my employees face get so red. Thank you for that, I think I was mostly laughing at her reaction.

I'll upload the rest later when I'm not in my bakery

Just a preview.

 

Yes! I was hoping UPS wouldn't Xray that thing and call in the bomb-squad.

 

 

Monk is a twisted bastard. Funny, but soooooo twisted.

You open the box. Firework pop streamers go off in your face,

This dong(not a typo) starts playing...



And this spring load phallus pops out.



Full on inception layers of *****.



***** glitter, ***** candy, just full on Vlad levels of gay.





All for 2 rolls of tape. I don't think I've committed to anything as hard as Monk did to this box.