OK that was a long day.

Lower coolant pipe ceramic coated. Pretty much just really high temp spray that you bake in your oven.



Put a little vibration dampening on the glove box



Need to clean the inside of the box but I put down some synthetic suede down in the glove box to stop anything from rattling. Looks horrible in the picture, but it looks great in person.



Got my seats put in. This took FOREVER. Drivers side was incredibly tight, took about 2 hours just to put it in. I had to tear the carpet padding out of the transmission tunnel and then gently persuade(read BFH) and pounded the **** out of it to give me an extra 1/2" of room.

THEN, due to how tight the brackets were to the sides of the transmission tunnel it took forever to line up all the bolts and then tighten it by little 3" turns(read 10 minutes a damn bolt). It finally went in though. Passenger side was a cinch since I didn't need the seating position as low as the drivers side.



Viewing angle from the drivers side.



Cleaned and polished the B.O.V and put a new filter on it. Old filter was trashed.



Rear finish tray carpet installed correctly.



Actually used the spacers correctly on the 949 links, after jacking up each side they are perfectly 90 to the sway bar.



Put the fenders back on. Took a while to align it with the door properly.



And decided to take it off the stilts and put it back on the ground, why? Why not!

 

Looks great!!! Anxiously waiting the first start!!

 

Me too, me too...I can feel it in my plums!

 

Also, looking at my brakes in that photo, if I had an ounce less of self control, I'd be ordering the TSE 11.75" brake kit.

Much stop
So big
Because sorta race car

 

Do you know if they fit under those Konigs? I thought I remembered the Konigs not having the clearance for them. Even if they would fit you would probably need a spacer which may result in the fenders needing to be rolled.

 

If those fit with my Konig's I am about to get a little poorer myself!!!

**Edit** Never-mind def cant afford that yet anyway... Price was a bit deceiving at first until I realized that was only for the "Upgrade" for existing BBK owners.... Damn

 

Double post #5,381 deleted...

I seriously don't think the 11.75" kit will fit under your wheels. I had issues with my 15" enkeis, K1s, and my current Konigs. I'm guessing our drums are the same, and they just threw in a different spoke pattern. And the drum is what was interfering with the calipers, not the spokes. So nothing a spacer would fix. If I were you, I'd just keep my wheel option open and run 11" brakes, unless you're super serious about tracking.

My wheel/tire/brake combo on Goodwin's site:

 

About the coolant lines... are you talking about hard mounting them to the chassis? So like engine -> chassis bracket -> turbo? That sounds like a bad idea as engine movement is going to be pulling on them every time you throttle up/down.

Check out what BEGI does with their line kit:





Building that aluminum bracket would be easy with basic tools, and it looks like your fittings and lines are almost the right length already.

 

For the lines, I'd honestly ditch the bulkhead fittings. They're just another place for potential leakage. Sell the water lines to someone who actually wants to put the time into a pretty bracket, or someone who doesn't care, and just buy lines long enough to go from turbo to source/return with one line.

 

^ that's what I'm thinking. I see that BEGI coolant setup and it looks like they thought "hmm, how can we introduce the most possible points of leakage into this system?"

 

The hard line in question was the engine coolant to heater core hose that goes under the engine towards the firewall.

Good call on the 11" brakes.

Curly I think it is the site. I never have double post problems elsewhere.

 

Nice! Now close that wheel gap a bit!

 

I think it will settle once I drive it, I hope at least.

 

it will

 

Rev 2 headlight wiring box done. If I really cared more I'd putty the seam at the top, sand it, and paint it...but I just don't care at the moment enough to do it. The way I did it this time is much sturdier since it mounts on the fuse box nuts.

Also mounted the catch can in the easiest/most open spot on the passenger side. I bought a long while ago before I realized how cheaply you can make these things. Oh well, it looks good so who cares!





Also was able to hide a lot of the wiring under the headlight buckets. Zip tied it down well so it wouldn't interfere with the headlight motor rod.

Hopefully the new throttle body comes in today so I have more stuff to do.

 

As usual - Beautiful. Nice choice on the Moroso separator. They do their job very well for the guys with smaller setups on pump gas that don't need the volume.

 

Fab9, what would be your next step upgrade on that moroso? Why wouldn't it be sufficient for other setups?

 

Don't listen to him!
11.75 brakes are full of win!

 

The only reason I would imagine needing to go bigger is if you had E85 or a water/methanol injection that would need to capture more water vapor and/or you don't want to think about emptying your catch can more often.

The old one in the car was this leaky huge universal plastic catch can that was about the size of a gallon milk container. I'm quite happy with the Moroso piece. Sure it is expensive but damn is it well made. The lever actuated drain pipe makes emptying it a breeze too. The old version had you unscrew the base, which would have made my mounting solution a pain in the *** to remove every time to do so.

 

Its not all that expensive when you compare it to this one...

Mishimoto Baffled Oil Catch Can, by Mishimoto