<p>@deezums, @hi_im_sean</p><p>Did some more big brake sleuthing. Nothing helpful though.</p><p>Found a list of most 4x100 cars and checked other cars with a 54.1mm hub bore, no luck. Scion xB got closest with a 275mm outer diameter.</p><p>Also did some searching for pre-made hub rings. Nope, nothing good either. Plug I believe we want our in steel, not aluminum. Something about aluminum deforming under load, not good for brakes.</p><p>@EO2K did you say you were running mini 11 inch rotors? Could you measure clearance between the rotor and wheel. Don't you have 15x8 and x9?</p>

 

Yes, yes and yes, with a wilwood caliper. What specific measurements do you want?

 

<p>Ummm. Distance between caliper and barrel of the wheel, also between face of the wheel. Basically wherever it is closest to the caliper.</p>

 

Sure, I can give it a shot. Keep in mind most of my car fuckery time will be dedicated to trying to sort out whatever it was that I broke on my tune, but I'll try to get that for you. Eventually.

I can tell you without looking that the 11" Mini rotor and Gen3 15x8 and x9 6UL had tons and tons of clearance. As to how much exactly I'll have to measure.

Of note... I can run the 11" mini + wilwood with the stock NB1 15x6 rims, but the caliper to spoke clearance makes Gesso wince every time he looks at my brakes I really should throw a 2mm spacer in there.

 

<p>That's good to know. I'm digging around wilwoods site trying to find caliper dimensions but not finding what I want.</p><p>I thought I read somewhere that the dynapro calipers were more compact that the dynalites.</p>

 

You also have to make sure they have the right offset.

Hub rings dont see any load beyond holing the rotors weight while you bolt the wheel down. If they do, something is wrong. They can be and are often made out of plastic. My wifes jetta has had plastic rings on it for 8 years now, I broke one the other day . They can be aluminum.

 

<p>I know, I was just looking, nothing was in the right size, so I didn't even worry about offset. Its good news that G has oodles of room around his setup, ours should just basically be further out from the center.</p><p>Frozen tires are awesome for one thing. Burnouts. Did lots of those last night on a craigslist run. Spark cut revlimiter=unlimited burnouts.</p>

 

Back up on the brakes. What's wrong exactly and what are you trying to do?

I can tell you for certain that the Wilwood master kit you're talking about should ONLY be used for the master cylinder, mounting adapter, the T, and the union if necessary.

You'll want to go to o'napvancezone to get some new line. They sell short sections with fittings already on them. Cut and bend as you need. Screw the hand bend line that comes with the kit.

 

<p>Brakes blow. I think I just fucked the bleeding up too bad. Going to try again tonight.</p><p>I can get the master through yank for cheapsies, and then fab the rest of it myself. I was more just trying to clarify in that post, not actually interested in buying it at retail.</p><p>I like trying to diy **** and then ******* myself at 130mph, more adrenaline that way.</p>

 

What i did. DIY adapter flange from 1/2" aluminum and some studs.

 

<p>Hold on, I've just wet myself.</p>

 

... then relocated the prop valve inside the car.

 

<p>Baller. I'll be doing that too.</p><p>How do you adjust brake bias? Is it by feel? See what's locking up?</p>

 

LOL.

Ben pls come work on my MX6. Is also F motor. Is also similar levels of "don't give a ****, is fast."


Anyways, here's a shot of how i routed lines and used T and union for you to copy Aidan.

View of brake hydraulics by concealer404, on Flickr

 

<p>Ben's car made me giggle like a ******* girl. It made me swallow my words the first time @turbofan stepped on it.</p><p>I would do soooo many burnouts if I had that thing.</p>

 

I'm pretty sure we build cars the same way. And both do F motors. And share a name. The world would implode.

 

<p>Just embarassing emilio a bit more. I should get the opposite of sponsorships, people should pay me not to put their **** on my car.</p><p></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

 

Why do you need these masters? I don't understand. You have yet to run a good set of pads all around with a proper bleed. I feel like you're over engineering a problem that is easily solved

 

Because mine started leaking. I'm not trying to fix my braking with a new master. But I don't want to pay 80 for a new master when I can get a far superior one for not much more.<br />
<br /><br /><br />
<br /><br />No over engineering here. Nope that never happens here.

 

Why you no bench bleed? If you run a master dry, you need to bench bleed.
You're looking at all of these complex solutions without doing the easy stuff first.
Don't get me wrong, I read this thread for the weirdness, but you're kicking your own *** with shortcuts.