No clue. I think I went with FM specs for mine. It was a vast improvement over factory settings, so I'm happy.

 

Either that or a pair of mechanics gloves or pliers for turning the ****. It works fine, it's just intended for small spaces so it's less ergonomic than the normal one.

You run the same tires street and track right? That'll probably work OK. I run dedicated tires for each, and > 3 degrees of camber means the street tires wear the inside edges about twice as fast as the outsides.

I find that ~ half a degree works well for balancing front/rear camber, but it depends on the general balance of the car, spring rates, sway bars, etc.

--Ian

 

Yeah, same tires for street and track. Hopefully the track outer wear will overcome the inner wear from the street.

 

Just max out the front and make the rear match unless you can get more than 2.5° up front, then stop at 2.5° for the rear.

 

I have extended lower ball joints. I should be able to get quite a bit more than 2.5*

 

Looking good. No luck on the bracket in Mem.

 

Not sure for the track but auto-x would have the same advice. Front camber, run ALLOFIT. I know at least with maxed out front camber and 1/4" total toe out in the front daily driving to work and auto-xing on skeet tirers you end up with basically even wear maybe a little extra on the outer shoulder.

 

Hacking up the 99-00 brackets to work with the 01+ ABS. Also this rivnut tool is pretty awesome.

 

With the ratio of track to street you do, I would not exceed 3 F, 2.5-2.7 R.

From my online research, 0.3-0.6 less rear camber than front seems to be the norm. That is if you ignore all of m.net. and whatever that stupid icebird bullshit alignment is.

 

On the abs block which port is which for the master cylinder? MC1 and MC2. Front and rear?

 

I've been running 0-toe and my wear is pretty low, that's with maxed out front caster and a camber around 2.7 in the front and 2 in the rear (Rear gets real slide happy). I just barely oversteer and it's very correctable. I drive 80% street though.

 

@codrus can you help with the MC to ABS plumbing?

 

If the 03+ "prop valve" is a 1:1 like some people have said (I haven't measured it yet), then I don't think it matters. I have "MC1" plumbed to the front, though.

--Ian

 

Got everything plumbed, need to rebuild my rear calipers before I can bleed it and find all the leaks I probably have.

The cunifer/copper nickle stuff is freaking amazing. It flares easy, bends easily, I couldn't have done everything I did with steel brake line, I would have torn my hair out. I'll get some more detailed pics of how everything is mounted soon.










Also gutted the prop valve to match what the 01+ prop valve is.

 

Moar pics

 

And questions for @codrus and @Leafy

Here is my wiring spreadsheet




Questions:

Diagnostic wires: Should I just leave these accessible for later when I need to ground them?

Power wires: Can I run all of these to the always hot terminal under the fusebox? Or is that too much power for that wire to carry? Run something from the battery?

Lights: Don't really want to deal with my cluster, so I plan on running wires for a couple LEDs. with an inline resistor to make it seem like a bulb.

I remember Ian talking about one of the sensor wires being a "ground side"? Need to see which one of the wires I need to connect to my VSS input on the megasquirt.

Otherwise this wiring doesn't look to bad really. Some power wires, 3 wires over to the drivers side for lights and brake switch, and the sensors.

Anyone want to take bets on how many leaks I have? First time flaring brake line and I have a total of 9 new flares.

I'm guessing 3, Yank says 2.

 

AIUI, the sensors themselves are non-directional. Both wires run all the way back to the ABS unit, and one side is grounded inside it.

Why are you running all 4 right-side wires to the MSVSS and none of the left-side ones?

I assume you're going to fuse the three power wires separately, right? I powered mine off the fusebox (well, the 50A and 20A ones), but then my fusebox was designed to have an ABS pump run off it. Dunno on yours.

I ran the power grounds to the bolt that holds the ABS bracket down.

Don't forget to put a switch on the power line to the electronics so you can power cycle it easily. It's useful when diagnosing it, plus a nice thing to have so that if it starts to misbehave you can shut it off.

I'm betting you have 9 leaks. The first time you put the cunifer flares on you need to crank the flare nuts down a lot harder than you'd think.

Does the car have a 929 1" master yet?

--Ian

 

Only 2 are going to the VSS. Just front and rear VSS. I wrote down all 4 because i wasnt sure if there were specific ones.

Yes 3 separate fuses. I'll wait for leafy to respond about powering them all from the fuse box.

Which powerline should I switch?

I haven't tightened any of the lines yet. I'll remember to crank them down.

Yes, 929 master is part of this installation.

 

Hm. I'm kinda surprised the MS TC works with only 2 wheel speed sensors.

I switched the ABS computer -- 10A switch is easier than 20 or 50, plus it seems safer to switch off the controller rather than leaving it running with either the pump or the solenoids but not the other.

--Ian

 

Its just driven and undriven TC. Its not very advanced, and ive only seen it in use on drag cars.