I need to order some square tube and plate for that. Its so flimsy on the back. I'll need to modify it a decent amount.

 

Got this quote from a machine shop today. Not bad. I would probably drop the assembly and block decking. It also includes a balance even though its not listed.

 

What is the galley plug installation? I haven't seen that.

 

I would DIY the assembly, but have them do the block decking. Would suck to have to do it over if it's not flat enough and the head gasket doesn't seal.

--Ian

 

Galley plugs are the plugs that plug up the galleys

So you know all those oil and coolant passage plugs that look like freeze plugs or threaded pipe plugs? If you are doing the hot tank operation on a block with say, a spun bearing, you remove them before it goes in the tank and replace them with new ones when it comes out.

 

Got some more info. Guy builds 2000hp motors, that are reliable. And does some cool stuff. I think I will be going with the price pre-assembly. Includes all clearances, setting compression height of pistons, full balancing, etc, etc.

 

Question about balancing and dampers. Are all spm dampers the same? For example, if I planned on getting an SPM damper down the road, but wanted to build the engine first could i theoretically borrow someone elses damper to get it balanced?

 

by that logic you could interchange all independently balanced parts without upsetting the balance. I highly doubt it

 

Except the precision that the damper is milled at is theoretically much higher than any other component. Just my guess.

 

How many planes is a rotating assembly balanced in? If it's just one, then I don't think there's any point (because the SPM damper is presumably designed to be fully balanced by itself). If it's in multiple planes, then maybe there's value.

--Ian

 

Aidan - get it balanced with the damper you intend to use down the road. No damper can be perfect, it will have off-axis inertia. That will be incorporated into the overall balance. Getting one down the road and putting it into your balanced assembly doesn't work. All the parts get balanced together, which is why I am still running my ATI superdamper.

Next rebuild I will switch to a SPM damper to get back to a stock crank pulley size. ATI is 10mm bigger.

 

This. All of this. Do this. Give them your flywheel and pressure plate too, with all the hardware. Use 6 different colors of Haley's nail polish to color code the pressure plate nuts to their respective flywheel studs, same with crank bolts. I'm totally serious, this shows you mean business and aren't just ******* around. If you are going to do it you might as well do ALLOFIT.

These are things I wish I had done, if you couldn't tell.

 

I hate you all

 

 

Sorry guys not happening. I have to draw the budget line somewhere. So unless one falls into my lap its not getting balanced with my supermiata damper.

 

Don't balance then.

For balancing, you need to bring: Crank bolt-front pulley-woodruff key-timing sprocket-rods/pistons/bearings/rings-flywheel-flywheel bolts-pressure plate-pp bolts.

If you plan on changing ANY of that, don't bother balancing. Since you're fairly budget oriented, you could also buy a new OEM damper and have it balanced, especially since you're running the BE pump. New OEM pump with MM account is $115.

 

And what happens when you surface your flywheel?

 

He should at least gram scale and die grinder balance the reciprocating assembly at home. But if you're not bringing all the parts the original crank balancing is probably close enough.

 

This engine builder is going to balance it, its how he does it. Hes gonna get a borrowed SPM damper.

So is life.

 

Alright. Better than nothing.

Make sure you know how everything is keyed, so you can put it back together the way he had it when you get it. Pertinent to this is how the SPM damper is keyed to the rest of the assembly. The nail polish, however you want to do it, it does no good if you put it back together different from how he had it.

When you get your damper, give it to him, ask him to tell you how to key it to your existing assembly for best fit.

Essentially what I'm saying, the existing damper will have an off-axis vector. Your new damper will have an off-axis vector. you want them aligned the same way when assembled to minimize total off-axis vector of the entire rotating assembly.

I know you know what I'm talking about, but I don't know the official engine builder terminology here so I'm trying to describe things using my 26 year old physics degree that I haven't really used in 26 years.