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Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap

Old Feb 21, 2017 | 08:58 PM
  #8661  
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Ah, so it's not really a MAP sensor because it's not going on the manifold -- just a miscellaneous AP sensor.

As for what can be skipped:

Install block vent -- sounds optional to me.

Oil temp sensor, oil cooler are unlikely to be necessary for a track day in April.

You can skip EBC and run wastegate pressure for the first track day on the new motor.

Rad ducting probably also skippable, I mean, it's gonna be 65 degrees there, right?

Brake ducting less necessary if you run mech WG, because less power.

Grease bushings a good idea, but *required*? Diff reseal also optional.

A bunch of the stuff at the end I can't read. "Install none of it wga" ? "Install **** ring"?

--Ian
Old Feb 21, 2017 | 09:04 PM
  #8662  
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Originally Posted by codrus
Ah, so it's not really a MAP sensor because it's not going on the manifold -- just a miscellaneous AP sensor.

As for what can be skipped:

Install block vent -- sounds optional to me.

Oil temp sensor, oil cooler are unlikely to be necessary for a track day in April.

You can skip EBC and run wastegate pressure for the first track day on the new motor.

Rad ducting probably also skippable, I mean, it's gonna be 65 degrees there, right?

Brake ducting less necessary if you run mech WG, because less power.

Grease bushings a good idea, but *required*? Diff reseal also optional.

A bunch of the stuff at the end I can't read. "Install none of it wga" ? "Install **** ring"?

--Ian
Fuuuuu everything I typed got lost. You are right about some of that. Will take note.
Old Feb 21, 2017 | 09:22 PM
  #8663  
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Originally Posted by codrus
Ah, so it's not really a MAP sensor because it's not going on the manifold -- just a miscellaneous AP sensor.

As for what can be skipped:

Install block vent -- sounds optional to me.

Its a hole in the block tapped for 1/2" NPT. It either needs the hose connected, or a plug

Oil temp sensor, oil cooler are unlikely to be necessary for a track day in April.

True, but much easier to install when the motor is out/not ready.

You can skip EBC and run wastegate pressure for the first track day on the new motor.

I will be going to the dyno before the track day. And probably will be pushing to see what I can make, EBC is another short job that wont take a ton of time

Rad ducting probably also skippable, I mean, it's gonna be 65 degrees there, right?

Probably right. It might even be snowing.

Brake ducting less necessary if you run mech WG, because less power.

I have the ducts already installed. Just need to remount them with the new intercooler piping.

Grease bushings a good idea, but *required*? Diff reseal also optional.

Grease bushings is a 15 minute job while the car is up in the air. Might as well do it now. Diff reseal is optional, but another "While the driveshaft is out, why not"

A bunch of the stuff at the end I can't read. "Install none of it wga" ? "Install **** ring"?

Noneofit wastegate is threaded rod that will hold the wastegate open for break in. Catch can. Easy to mount, can make lines for it quickly.

--Ian
Take 2
Old Feb 21, 2017 | 11:26 PM
  #8664  
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I have a bag of NB shims (or do you have SUBs?) you can swap around if you'd like. As long as I get back the same number of shims I give you.
Old Feb 21, 2017 | 11:29 PM
  #8665  
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I have subs so no go there thanks for the offer though.
Old Feb 21, 2017 | 11:41 PM
  #8666  
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I may have a few of them at work from Nial's build. Let me check and I'll send you the sizes in case they work. But they're $100 from MR if you haven't found that deal yet...
Old Feb 21, 2017 | 11:46 PM
  #8667  
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I actually just posted a question about them lol. In the engine prep section.

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/mazda-motorsport-sub-question-92281/

I saw the MMR deal, need to check with my usual supplier and see what they can do
Old Feb 22, 2017 | 12:44 AM
  #8668  
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Had another track today. RS3's were epic. Barely wore, were pretty much just as fast as the z2*s. Same fastest time, 32.4. Still too slow.

Had an issue in the second session with the car cutting out and dying. Turned out it only cost a cent to fix.


For the first time in 3 years (or more) my positive battery terminal isn't held on by a penny.

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Also added a 1/8npt bung to make @codrus and @EO2K happy

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BUNG ALL THE THINGS
Old Feb 22, 2017 | 02:09 AM
  #8669  
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Originally Posted by aidandj
need to check with my usual supplier and see what they can do
hmmmmm....
Old Feb 22, 2017 | 10:42 AM
  #8670  
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Originally Posted by MiataMan00
hmmmmm....
?
Old Feb 22, 2017 | 12:18 PM
  #8671  
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Lol, such a penny pincher.
Old Feb 22, 2017 | 12:20 PM
  #8672  
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Horrible pun, but worth a
Old Feb 22, 2017 | 12:21 PM
  #8673  
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I like so support a local shop here that helps me out a lot. If they can't get what I need I look to Miata vendors.
Old Feb 22, 2017 | 12:43 PM
  #8674  
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Originally Posted by curly
But they're $100 from MR if you haven't found that deal yet...
@curly: The lash caps or the SUBs? Because I'd love to know where you are seeing SUBs for $100

https://miataroadster.com/mazdaspeed.../i-407708.aspx MR has them listed for $200
Old Feb 22, 2017 | 12:48 PM
  #8675  
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Yes he means the lash caps. Lifters are $160 from MMD
Old Feb 22, 2017 | 12:53 PM
  #8676  
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$40 markup over MMD on a $160 part? This is why MR makes my skin crawl.
Old Feb 22, 2017 | 12:58 PM
  #8677  
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Well shipping too, I think i paid just under $180. Pretty standard.
Old Feb 22, 2017 | 01:00 PM
  #8678  
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Yeah, but that's $20 worth of beer I can drink while installing them.
Old Feb 22, 2017 | 01:33 PM
  #8679  
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Originally Posted by aidandj
?
It was a joke....nvm.
Old Feb 22, 2017 | 01:47 PM
  #8680  
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Oh maybe it's $200. Just the shims.

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