yep you might wanna replace that check valve. it might be sticking

 

Probably should just put one in since there isn't one currently installed...

 

I'm scheduled to be tuned at PRE Racing in Portland on the 27th. Its about time I get this thing on the rack to see what it will do.

 

@ 17 psi

Compression test results
(1-4) 164, 155, 165, 170 (#2 not so good..)

Throttle body shaft leaks air pretty bad on both sides.

Conclusion:
Looks like piecing together this swap with parts that don't exactly fit together correctly and a cheaper turbo is a better idea.

 

I wouldn't discount all those parts you've put together. Most have been proven successful in various applications on this forum. I think you still have sorting to do. Unfortunately that includes those compression numbers. I suppose a leak down would be next. But on a fresh engine I'd be a little concerned with the differences. It would be nice if you had a baseline dyno from a known entity (stock Miata) to compare your number.

 

I'll be brutally honest: those numbers are underwhelming to say the least for 17psi. When considering that this is an EFR on an FE3 the whole chart is very disappointing.

I'm thinking there's issues more than just the low compression here, but that is a hefty contributor. Bummer man, hope you can get it all sorted. I'm thinking a quick refresh of the head and re-ring/hone of the block would be the ticket to getting this thing back up to good health.

 

did patsmx5 tune your car?

 

Something is pretty wrong.... my 207k mile F2T tests at 150psi across the board, dead. :(

 

Shouldn't the compression be 175-180 on a fresh motor? What's the AFR and timing maps look like under boost?

 

My healthy junkyard FE3 9.5:1 showed high 180s across the board. Yank is ~8.5:1 IIRC.

 

a 2L with a 6258 making 200tq at 4k he either has a MASSIVE exhaust leak or something else pretty significant causing the loss of spool, torque, and relatively low power.

 

My bad... forgot about how cams affect compression tests as well.

 

I agree 100%, something is definitely wrong. I made 360whp with a 1.6, eBay turbo at 22psi. The clutch isn't slipping for sure? I know you have a leak at the throttle plate shaft, but that alone can't be robbing that much power can it?

The video of this thing looks incredibly quick, not that a fast video has anything to do with HP but I wanna see what this thing car really do.

 

After idling at 5500 rpm i decided to take a look under the hood. These cracks in the manifold runners might be a contributing factor.. May relate somewhat to dyno numbers as well..

 

...............

Facepalm

 

yikes.

explains a lot. also hopefully you didn't beat on it too much with like 50% of the charge air being leaked out and likely overspinning the daylights outa that 'spensive turbo

 

It wasn't this bad at dyno day but leaks did exist yes. Picked up a loaner miata from a friend for the rest of the week and we're going to TIG it this weekend. Adding reinforcement as well.

 

We should definatly see if my 9" 6uls clear your car its easy to run 2 autocross events every month here from March to September. You will also be ready for roll bar & hard top bolt in mounts to get out on track. Looks like front end pushed a lot during autocross need to unhook sway bar. We can go Tig your manifold mid morning Saturday about 9 am. Don't let my stock 1.6 scare you this week.

 

Its making me wish i never did this swap. Nice smooth adequate powerband.

I got some new jeep CJ7 engine mounts in today. I'm hoping to get these new softer engine mounts put in while the car is down. Hearing the radio and having a conversation is a little hard with all the NVH from the poly engine mounts.

 

I'm begining to think that sheet metal IMs on a miata needs bracing.