I think that if you are flat-shifting properly, its not really much harder on anything but the tires and clutch. You have to be really fast, smooth, and precise with your shifts and time the clutch engagement really well.
Its hard, and you dont need to do it all the time, but damn does it make you fast. Especially with an extra-big-*** turbo

 

Does your driveline make a big bang when you flat shift?


allison trans?



so it's not supposed to bang?

 

Is you trollinz', Faefae?

 

No.

 

No, I do not get a bang when I shift. I used to but it was related to my downpipe movement.

What engine mounts do you have? What diff mounts do you have? Do you have a DP brace? Is there anything regulating your flat shift or are you just flat shifting it anyways?

 

2x mazdacomp engine mounts
mazdacomp diff mounts

the downpipe isn't banging... it was always just a giant shock to the driveline.

You know, like when you do a sidestep clutch-kick drift initiation? bang.

 

Faefae, you have no mechanical empathy, and if you don't learn any, the new six speed is going to ---- on you every bit as fast as the first.

 

I've never had a "BANG" when full throttle shifting cars before either.
You're doin it wrong

And why are you flat shifting anyway? Id never do it unless a big money or big ego race was set up and I had to win no matter what. Otherwise its just beating on your car.

 

I built my ---- to beat on it. If it brakes I fix it. Not beating on my car makes me feel like I'm wasting it.

If there is a "drivetrain" bang you're getting that we might not be, it could be related to your clutch. I still rock a sprung setup, which at 8k rpm's might not offer much but it's certainly easier on my setup than an instant snag.

 

Yeah I am suspicious that the twin ceramic unsprung plates did not provide snuggle love to my transmission. Trans was fine with me being evil to it until like 100 miles after i put in 949 clutch.


My car got through emissions today and car is re-registered. Huzzah. Now that I can drive it legally again, it is, of course, raining.

 

Any ideas on how I should set up "boost assist" for my QSV WG? Basically, I want to have the QSV flapper stay completely shut until I hit 18psi then open up completely.

Hobbs switch? Is there a cheap way to do this?

 

Hobbs switch + solenoid would probably do the trick. You'll need to make sure you include some sort of one way bypass valve (or a very _very_ small bleed hole) to ensure closing of the QSV.

 

whats wrong with the mbc you're using?

 

The MBC will not keep the QSV from opening partially.

 

Would an EBC solenoid work that is hooked up to your hydra?

 

Your QSV should have came with a Hobbs switch.

 

You mentioned making 1000 horsepower with a duramax. To me, that says turbodiesel, and the GMC turbodiesel Duramax's come with an Allison 6spd automatic trans.

 

Only if I paid for one.


I just spent some quality time in the garage with a bike pump and some rubber hose.

I adjusted my ebay brass MBC until it held around 10psi on the bike pump gauge.

I also whipped out the trusty jbweld and added a restriction to the tee in my spiffy turbosmart manual boost controller. It was fantastic.

It came with a restriction, but I drilled it out for my GT30 because it spiked hard and fast. With this turbo, I really need max spool optimization and I can tolerate spike because well, I have to run all...

 

Buy the Hobbs, it's purpose is to do exactly what you need.

 

Otay I am lowering my fuel pressure.

I think that part of the reason why I have a big voltage crapout at high IDCs is because I am working my pumps too hard and they are pulling too many amps. My pumps should flow better at lower fuel psi especially if they are seeing more voltage. Going to go set this up now.