^
Interesting:

a. Would 18psi use a NitroDann fabrication even if it proved to be the superior product?

b. Would NitroDann even make it for 18psi?

Yeah right, when hell freezes over

 

lol i didnt never said 18psi to use Danns kit. I guess me calling it a 18psi vs dann challenge wasnt clear enough?

 

Both of your instigating is pathetic and honestly getting old.

I have written Dann off a while ago.

If you have nothing of substance to add to this thread you can unsubscribe.

 

No in boost video.
No cats.

Thread sucks.

 

I'll have you know, the other night while tuning my EBC, I hit you Vlad. Good, hard, and quick. Like a cheap hooker.















<3

 

Moving on,

Word of caution to those that will be DIY seating/lapping their valves: make absolutely sure to measure lash after you're done, chances are you'll need new shims or need to grind/sand/polish down your current ones.

Measured them yesterday, and realized I completely forgot to do that when I assembled the engine. I was too excited to finally install it into the car that I completely forgot.

They are so tight the feeler won't even go in on some of them, meaning the valves are not fully closing, which explains everything.

I wasn't going to post this, but figured those folks actually taking my thread seriously and replicating the DIY semi-build need to know this so they don't repeat this mistake.

 

Thank you.

I'm one of those people taking this thread seriously and replicating the DIY semi-build, so, thank you much.

 

I'm in for the build, not zhe drama. Glad you found out the main problem. On with the success!

 

Man... Good looking out for your brethren.

So is it just a matter of pulling cams again, and remeasuring then ordering new shims?

Cool Story: If you guys order shims do it the right way... don't have a machine shop make your shims and realize the hard way that they are supposed to be hardened. "Why won't my valves open anymore?"... because the custom shims you put it now look like t1000 play dough, that's why. [/T2 Judgement Day reference]

 

Nice vlad, glad no harm was done (hopefully). I'm going to get some quotes around town to see if someone could take care of my head refreshing for me, but I still may end up doing it myself in the end.

 

Yes basically.
I'm going to measure each one, figure out which ones I need or how much I need to take them down, and either carefully sand down the bottoms of them or just order new OEM ones in the proper size. I think they're somewhere between $3-4 each. Then throw in Supertech stem seals and hopefully be done.

No damage was done to anything, and looks like the rest of the engine is fine, no leaks no issues.

 

It didnt show itself in a compression check before or was your engine just that beefy it couldnt really tell if there was a opening in the valves?

 

I didn't do compression test on this built engine. Yet.
I just installed it a few days ago. I'm sure compression is super low because it takes a while to start up and runs really rough. As I would expect from an engine with valves not fully closing. I only ran it for like 5 minutes at a time a couple times and shut it down. Didn't want to take any chances.

 

Yeah good idea not running it long as it could bend valves! How much shorter do you think they will be?

 

I don't think any more than 1-2mm
These engines are non-interference, even the vvt ones, so I doubt it woulda damaged something either way, but better safe than sorry.

 

Glad everything is alright though, could have been **** loads worse

 

If you are using shim under bucket lifters, it is a pretty easy operation to grind down the shims to get just the right fit using nothing more than sand paper, a flat surface, and a dial caliper. It might be possible with the larger shim over, but I have not tried it.

 

Oh I know, but firing spark at a non-seated valve is not the best thing for that valve!

 

I've got the same thing to figure out. I had my valves & seats redone and to save money I said I would set the valves.
If you find a nice way to remove the shims while the cams are torqued I'd love to see it.

 

Mazda actually lists a SST (Special Service Tool) in the FSM to do exactly that, but I figured like all SST's it was probably $140 and not worth the effort.