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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 05:58 PM
  #881  
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Sweet! My car is going to be running before xmas too! Not drivable yet though. Race is on! 2876R would be nice 18psi, eh
Old Dec 3, 2013 | 06:33 PM
  #882  
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Originally Posted by 18psi
SST? Drawing a blank here.
"Special Service Tool" I believe. It's all the Mazda made special tools that make servicing your car 100000x easier.

They are expensvie...
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 11:08 AM
  #883  
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Originally Posted by Corey
This is the piece to replace the little plastic bushing on the bottom of the shiter itself? I've been meaning to order one to replace mine, but I keep forgetting. Let us know if it makes a difference in shifter feel.
Yup. When I had it out 2 years ago the stocker looked great, but I keep hearing people say its a big improvement going to alum, so I figured I'd try it. Will post results
Originally Posted by EO2K
The balloon thing might actually work. It makes sense, you are just trying to keep the valves from falling into the cylinders, right?
Yep. I'll hook up the compressor to a compression tester hose and try that 1st though, my friend tells me there's no reason to even bother with the balloon method, even a few psi of regular air should keep everything closed and not falling in.
Originally Posted by bcrx7
Sweet! My car is going to be running before xmas too! Not drivable yet though. Race is on! 2876R would be nice 18psi, eh
With how awesome your progress is I will not be the least bit surprised if you beat me to the punch. I can't compete with your skills man
Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
"Special Service Tool" I believe. It's all the Mazda made special tools that make servicing your car 100000x easier.

They are expensvie...
Yeah, no.
I'd rather spend that money on more important things, and just did:
Ordered:
-vvt solenoid o-rings
-valve cover gasket
-cam seals

From Arlington/Rosenthal Mazda. Figured I'll just do it once and do it right. Not taking any chances with the ebay stuff (even though its probably fine).
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:13 PM
  #884  
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Originally Posted by 18psi
I'd rather spend that money on more important things, and just did:
Ordered:
-vvt solenoid o-rings
-valve cover gasket
-cam seals

From Arlington/Rosenthal Mazda. Figured I'll just do it once and do it right. Not taking any chances with the ebay stuff (even though its probably fine).
Good call on that. On my old b6 the ebay stuff all worked fine, cam seals, crank seals, vc gasket, etc.

On my bp, not so much. Cam seals leaked, and the VC gasket was puking into the cylinders after a few hundred miles. Yuck. Ended up going oem front/rear main, cam seals, and VC gasket - and will be doing the same on the new rebuild.
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:55 PM
  #885  
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Originally Posted by 18psi
LOLWUT? I used a churbo once, and before/after used 3 genuine garretts
Not on my own cars, but others' and really liked it.

Thanks man


Sure, no problem.
And that 300 figure is on pump. I don't think anyone has ever found out the stock pistons limit on e85. The 56 trim 2871 .86 should be good for high 300's

*edit: to be clear, I don't intend to reach high 300's, but here's the compressor chart anyways:


Its quite a bit more potent than a Disco Potato 2860
How about you give me that manifold/turbo/exhaust and we call it a day?
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 01:16 PM
  #886  
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When I ordered my timing belt kit from Rosenthal, the cam seals were not in OEM Mazda packing as you would expect, but they felt like quality and installed without issue. It's been 2-3 years now and they are pretty much the only thing NOT weeping oil on my engine. I really wish I had done the crank while I had it apart.
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 03:30 PM
  #887  
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Originally Posted by 18psi
Yup. When I had it out 2 years ago the stocker looked great, but I keep hearing people say its a big improvement going to alum, so I figured I'd try it. Will post results
I'd assume the metal one is less prone to being leveraged off, too. When I bought my MSM it had been popped off by the previous owner or dealer monkeys.
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 01:30 PM
  #888  
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Originally Posted by 18psi
With how awesome your progress is I will not be the least bit surprised if you beat me to the punch. I can't compete with your skills man
Yeah right! At least you are driving it! haha

By the way the 8374 showed up yesterday!
Old Dec 9, 2013 | 11:45 PM
  #889  
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This showed up today. Its no EFR but I think it will get the job done




Also today I finally got time to re-measure the lash and then pulled the cams. Its way out, definitely need to take most of them down.
Here's the FSM specs:
Intake: .008-.009
Exhaust: .011-.012
vs my specs
Intake: <.004, .006, <.004, .008, .006, .007, <.004, <.004
Exhaust: .008, .008, .008, .008, .007, .008, .006, .005

I say < because my tool only goes down to .004 and even that doesn't go in. So its probably nothing or even depressing the valve at full closed or something.

LOL

So yeah.
Attached Thumbnails H3AVY to H3AVYER to...H3AV1EST P1G-cam00374.jpg   H3AVY to H3AVYER to...H3AV1EST P1G-cam00375.jpg   H3AVY to H3AVYER to...H3AV1EST P1G-cam00376.jpg  

Last edited by 18psi; Dec 9, 2013 at 11:57 PM.
Old Dec 10, 2013 | 12:11 AM
  #890  
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That looks a little chunkier than my 2560

Edit: Why does it look like the nipple on the wastegate can is blocked off?

Last edited by EO2K; Dec 10, 2013 at 12:33 AM.
Old Dec 10, 2013 | 01:15 AM
  #891  
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Maybe it's a bleb, maybe to keep stuff out of the wastegate actuator.

Dann
Old Dec 10, 2013 | 08:28 AM
  #892  
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looks like packing foam that the nipple peirced
Old Dec 10, 2013 | 09:14 AM
  #893  
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Yup - gotta yank the piece of foam out from there.
Old Dec 10, 2013 | 11:12 PM
  #894  
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Originally Posted by EO2K
That looks a little chunkier than my 2560

Edit: Why does it look like the nipple on the wastegate can is blocked off?
It's the "all of it" modification.
Old Dec 12, 2013 | 10:32 AM
  #895  
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Alright so yesterday I fixed 1 shim lol

The ones that are <.004 take forever, because they're out so much that I have to 1st get them down enough to measure (my feeler only goes to .004 FTL) then do it some more. Basically I yank it out from the bucket, and sand down the underside of it on a stationary sander thing. Started with .127" (the shim measured with a caliper) and ended up with .105" to get a .009 lash, quite a bit.

The rest, or all but the 4 of them that are <.004 should go quicker and easier.

So far so good
Old Dec 12, 2013 | 11:06 AM
  #896  
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Glad to see you making progress, vlad. Hope it makes killer compression and runs like a raped ape.

Then I hope i can re-create this come spring :P.
Old Dec 12, 2013 | 11:15 AM
  #897  
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who will get running again first: 18psi or viperormiata?
Old Dec 12, 2013 | 11:20 AM
  #898  
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How many need to be ground? Can you swap them around until the clearances are correct on some of them before you resort to the grinder?
Old Dec 12, 2013 | 11:33 AM
  #899  
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ALLOFTHEM

Check post #889 for specs. No none of them can be swapped because they're all tight, not loose. This is a good thing.

Basically, and to repeat what my dad said to me yesterday- " Wow, you lapped/seated the heck outa those suckers "

I took them all down a lot, because I wanted a baller seal and finish on all of them. Mirror shine or go home
So now I gotta trim these shims to get it back in spec. All but the <.004 ones should be pretty quick though, they're only about .003 closer than OEM specs.
Old Dec 12, 2013 | 12:01 PM
  #900  
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Hey Vlad, are those specs for NB?
My valvetrain ticks a good beat.

Also got a t3 laying around you don't want?



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