Who is stupid enough to think the wheel well is low pressure?

 

If I hack-out the crash beam, do I need to weld something back in it's place or not? I'm really tired of going back and forth, it's time to do this properly.

 

Did you ever get your head back from the machine shop? What did they say caused the damage?

 

Intake valves are bent, no one really knows why but there's a list of options including valve float and missed shifts. I missed a couple shifts a few times when learning the 6-speed, the throttle suck open twice (sorry Matt) and the tach spun around backwards. I guess one of those did it, years ago.

I think the car will be ready to go by the end of the year, but I'm still not sure.

 

My car has never had one since before I bought it and seems fine. But I have read that something needs to be there to tie the 2 frame rails together and it makes sense. When I redo my frt end setup, ic, piping, ducting etc, i'm gonna weld a small steel tube on there.

 

Check out this thread. Perryrace built a tubular cross bar similar to what you are considering.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...hlight=cooling

 

Meh, I don't have the tools to do that work. I need another solution. I'm getting pretty frustrated, again.

 

So for the derail trey, but shui, are you out on nola event for sure? Reason I ask is this is kind of a special event in that a bunch of us are going to be there from all over the south. When will we get this chance again? I'm having an issue with some original turbo parts on my car. Hopefully it holds together next week for our final TxMC event. After that I'm going to do everything I can to make it to nola. I may have to do something radical to fix it. Not new, but new to miatadom.
I hope you can make it trey. I now return you to previously scheduled thread.

 

I am 95% positive that I will not be out to Nola. After buying a new CHRA, I am pretty much broke. I also have to factor in all the money I will spend for Christmas over the next month.

/threadjack

 

On the bumper support, are you asking if you need it from a safety standpoint, or a chassis stiffness standpoint?

From a safety standpoint, I wouldn't drive a car on the street without bumper beams. Period. It's ******* stupid not to run bumper beams on a street car in the US. There are too many 16 year old girls out there trying to pull out in front of me in their pink Durangos and kill me to try to save 15 lbs. When I'm tyrant dictator I'll make it so difficult to get a license that the 16 year old cell phone addicts won't actually be able to get one. Until then i'll keep my bumper beams.

As far as chassis stiffness, a 1/4" aluminum plate cut in the shape of the back of the bumper beam from flange to flange would replace all the torsion stiffness that the bumper beam could possibly provide.

 

I may be able to trip the crash bar and fit the oil cooler on top, briding the gap of the intercooler-radiator, then cut a hole for dutcting and BAM!, car runs cool and I continue winning at life. I hope it works because I'm running out of energy and tired of not using proper tools. I need a drill press, band saw, and circular saw at the least. Instead I have a 1-car garage and tears. This is oil cooler revision #6.

 

Mocal fittings are baller:

 

Where are you using that fitting?

 

Fuel lines and fuel rail.

 

I like that idea way better. I went with the banjo to AN adapter. Works but probably doesn't flow as well.

 

My new oil cooler location, utilizing air from the heat exchanger box. I'll probably finish it up tomorrow. Today I cut the plastic plates for the sides to seal it up.

 

Oil cooler mount is done. I'm pretty happy with it. This is something like the 5th iteration of an oil cooler on my car, and finally I have one that I'm proud of. Now I have to make mounts for the lower duct piece, make a new belly pan, put the head on, make fuel lines, and see what happens.

 

I'm guessing none of those people are not well versed in aero.

You can usually learn anything you need to know by studying factory race cars...

 

Hustler, is your oil filter remote mounted, or is that a sandwich plate on the block? Where did you put it if it's remote mounted?

 

Sammmich plate on the block. I've always wanted a remote filter, but never had the cash for that. It's a shame too, I just used another 8' of SS hose, lol.

Would anyone want to buy my old -10 lines for the FM style oil cooler mount?