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Old 11-27-2011, 02:31 PM   #1321
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Including fittings? How long are the lines?
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Old 11-27-2011, 03:57 PM   #1322
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Including fittings? How long are the lines?
Long enough for the FM oil cooler location. I'd have to go outside to measure and just came in so you'll have to wait, lol.
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Old 11-27-2011, 05:01 PM   #1323
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They mount it to the steering rack right? Let me know if you're willing to ship.
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:36 PM   #1324
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OK guys, I need some help.

I heard a "ching" noise when stopped and putting the car in gear. Spoolin thought it was the drive-shaft u-joint. I just checked and I don't feel any play in the driveshaft, so I wonder if it's the clutch. Are there any thoughts on how to diagnose this aside from pulling the trans?
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:36 PM   #1325
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They mount it to the steering rack right? Let me know if you're willing to ship.
Dude, just make your own. After international shipping its not worth the cost.
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:50 PM   #1326
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Show me where I can get any length (let alone 2 pieces, 4 fittings) of -10 line including fittings for ~$40 and I'll send you a case of Piraat
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:52 PM   #1327
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Show me where I can get any length (let alone 2 pieces, 4 fittings) of -10 line including fittings for ~$40 and I'll send you a case of Piraat
Bat-Inc
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:48 PM   #1328
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OK guys, I need some help.

I heard a "ching" noise when stopped and putting the car in gear. Spoolin thought it was the drive-shaft u-joint. I just checked and I don't feel any play in the driveshaft, so I wonder if it's the clutch. Are there any thoughts on how to diagnose this aside from pulling the trans?
Mine does that too and I suspected the U-joints but found everything to be tight. That was months ago and one trackday in between and nothing catastrophic has occurred. I still hear it occasionally. I hope it is nothing because I am running on the track at Road Atlanta this weekend. I certainly can't find anything and I've been actively turning wrenches for 20 years.
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:50 PM   #1329
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Mine does that too and I suspected the U-joints but found everything to be tight. That was months ago and one trackday in between and nothing catastrophic has occurred. I still hear it occasionally. I hope it is nothing because I am running on the track at Road Atlanta this weekend. I certainly can't find anything and I've been actively turning wrenches for 20 years.
I'm going to get John's bore scope out of my *** and have a look through the throw-out lever rubber piece. I am cautious because I've had things like springs pop out and broken fingers in the past. I'd like to save that money since I'm looking at yet another round of lay-offs. I still want that tow vehicle, but I'm not sure I can make it work.
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Old 11-28-2011, 03:07 PM   #1330
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An interesting quote from MotoIQ on valve springs and possibly a reason why I bend intake valves:
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JWT expends a lot of effort on properly engineering any product it makes. Before they set out to make a true set of competition cams (hence, the C-series name) that were a step above their already proven street cams (S-series), JWT set out to design a valvespring that controlled float at any expected RPM for the SR20DE and was reliable enough for daily-driven street use. While this sounds rather simple, it is an amazingly complex process that required a lot of thought. First and foremost, JWT wanted to ensure that their valvespring would not encounter its natural frequency at any expected engine speed. Natural frequency occurs in a valvespring when the forces of acceleration during compression and decompression happen rapidly enough (due to RPM) to cause the spring to resonate. If you have a cam with a lot of area under the curve (a more square shaped lobe), you will encounter a valvespring's natural frequency at a lower RPM. A lobe with less area under the curve (a more rounded lobe) will encounter its natural frequency at a higher RPM.

When a spring reaches its natural frequency, it no longer controls the valve in a predictable manner, and the steel reacts in much the same way as when you strike a tuning fork. Natural frequency is not the only consideration when designing a valvespring, as a spring with a higher natural frequency puts more stress on the metal from which it is made. JWT addressed this in a number of ways. First, because a valvespring is only as good as the metal from which it is made, their valvesprings are manufactured by an OEM spring supplier that ensures the highest quality wire and rigorous quality control. Second, JWT spec'd springs with an ovate cross section (also known as multiple arc) to allow for a spring that has a high natural frequency, yet can be expected to have a long service life. An ovate cross section spring is superior to a round spring because it spreads its stress focal points to the just below the surface of the inside diameter of the spring vice at the surface of just the inside diameter. Having the focal point of stress below the material's surface makes the spring less susceptible to failure due to surface imperfections introduced during the manufacturing process. JWT is the only company to offer an ovate valve spring for the SR20, and felt that the added cost in manufacturing was well worth the added reliability and performance of the design. In the end, JWT ended up with a spring that had a high enough natural frequency, was firm enough to control valve float, yet was not overkill to reduce valvetrain friction and wear from contact stress.
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...ore-power.aspx
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:27 PM   #1331
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Throw your head on a spintron and find out if that's the reason.

Obviously a different application than our cars, but when a single prostock spring hits it's frequency, you can hear it throughout the building when the valve looses control and floats, etc. It also spontaneously cooks and destroys the spring.
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Old 11-28-2011, 06:14 PM   #1332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
Throw your head on a spintron and find out if that's the reason.

Obviously a different application than our cars, but when a single prostock spring hits it's frequency, you can hear it throughout the building when the valve looses control and floats, etc. It also spontaneously cooks and destroys the spring.

Dear valvetrain guy,
How could my intake valves bend in a non-interference engine?
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:38 PM   #1333
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Quote:
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Dear valvetrain guy,
How could my intake valves bend in a non-interference engine?
that's the first thing i thought when you told me your valves were bent. you ever suck up any water?
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:43 PM   #1334
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maybe they're not bent?
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:20 PM   #1335
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that's the first thing i thought when you told me your valves were bent. you ever suck up any water?
Not that I know of since the filter is up high.
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maybe they're not bent?
Bent at the throat.
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:32 PM   #1336
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This just in:
The aluminum scooper is coming out in favor of plastic. If for some reason I ever tore up the bumper or went through the dirt I'd rather have the plastic tear off than the aluminum tear through the radiator.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:09 PM   #1337
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Quote:
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Dear valvetrain guy,
How could my intake valves bend in a non-interference engine?
Hit the piston. You running VVT? You running adjustable intake cam? You overrev on a downshift? Your girl overrev on a downshift? You miss an upshift? Little piece of metal injested, got stuck between valve & seat and piston went smoosh? Any marks on the piston?

Lollipop Chainsaw. Pop!
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:42 PM   #1338
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How does the valve guide look on that valve? Any chance the valve guide failed allowing the valve to **** in the bore while it was open, and then the lip of the valve caught the head as it was trying to retract back into place.

That might be an extreme example, but if the guide became worn enough to allow the lip of the valve to catch the head repeatedly, maybe over time it would bend, but not enough for a catastrophic failure.

Quote:
Worn guides can also contribute to valve breakage. The guides support and center the valves as they open and close. A worn guide will allow the valve to wobble slightly as it opens, which cause it to drift off-center with respect to the seat. This can cause the head of the valve to flex slightly each time it closes (much like a valve with a nonconcentric seat). After so many cycles, the metal fatigues and the head of the valve breaks off from the stem.
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:12 AM   #1339
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Hit the piston. You running VVT? You running adjustable intake cam? You overrev on a downshift? Your girl overrev on a downshift? You miss an upshift? Little piece of metal injested, got stuck between valve & seat and piston went smoosh? Any marks on the piston?

Lollipop Chainsaw. Pop!
Possibly an over-rev or two and the throttle stuck open twice. No signs of any mechanical garbage.
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:13 AM   #1340
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How does the valve guide look on that valve? Any chance the valve guide failed allowing the valve to **** in the bore while it was open, and then the lip of the valve caught the head as it was trying to retract back into place.

That might be an extreme example, but if the guide became worn enough to allow the lip of the valve to catch the head repeatedly, maybe over time it would bend, but not enough for a catastrophic failure.
I had 7 bent intake valves.
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