Yes

 

My new coolant pipe, next to the old rubber ****:

ARTech rules.

 

Wow. Nice piece for sure.

 

Where can I get good quality silicone couplers like what came in BEGi kit, locally for my water lines?

 

Damn, if I had only lived in "republic of dallas" i might be able to help you.

Nice pipe trey xoxo.

 

I smoked drugs out of it last night.

 

you want the fluorosilicone lined couplers btw. not regular silicone.

I believe these are the ones with the light blue interior lining.

oh and BEGi will sell you this. I believe they use the lined stuff. And if they dont stock it, they can get it. Just call Steph and tell her what size and how long.

 

Black with orange internals. I want it now though, not next week. Me me me me. I fully intend to drive my car on Sunday.

 

Uhh.. not quite sure what you mean here. Interference shouldn't have anything to do with the cam lobe touching the lifter. Interference means, that if your timing belt snaps for instance, and your valves are fully open (full lift), and the piston comes up all the way that they won't touch.

Now, if you deck your head too much or the block, you are now reducing the space between the valves and the piston if this were to happen. My block for instance had to have a bunch taken off the head to remove a bunch of detonation and now my motor is "interference". My cams/valves were timed correctly and we measured piston to valve clearance and I know how far I can adjust my cam gears before the piston would hit the valves when the piston is at TDC.

 

Your machinist is contradicting himself. First he says it's non-interference, but he also said your valves somehow hit the piston? That would mean it is interference.

Do you have upgraded valve springs? It's quite possible that if you had some work done to the block/head mating surfaces (removed material) and your valves floated during an over-rev that they made contact.

 

Do not forget the likelihood that I've somewhat misrepresented his statements to some degree. I decked/surfaced the head years ago when the engine was built, I now assume it's "an interference engine" and will get annual, blue timing belts.

 

That's likely a good call. Unfortunately without solid lifters it is nearly impossible to do a piston/valve clearance check. Do you have solids or hyd lifters?

I'm always terrified of my gears slipping. I have about 4* of movement either way from 0* on the cam gears before contact. I am paranoid and always check.

 

What are everyone's thoughts on trying to put tube-nuts for AN fittings on my heater core? I backed-out of doing this a while ago, but I'm interested again. I imagine the -10 37* flare tool is not cheap, but it would be really nice to be totally void of rubber hoses on this car.

 

I've flared a few AN hardline fittings before. They were brake lines though. It's not too hard... but practice on a few parts before hand. It should be easier on bigger tube like the header core. Up here in Canada you can rent the tools from Canadian Tire for free (just pay a dep). Are there any places like that near you?

 

I can check on renting the 37* flair tool, but I'm doubtful that anyone will stock it. Will the brass flair properly or split like stainless would?

 

Is it brass or aluminum? I would expect you would be fine either way...

 

Right... I guess that's a lot bigger than the brake line ones I've rented. I don't see brass being an issue to flare. But I would see if you can find another heater core to try before hand.

 

Brass colored.

 

AN Fittings on heater core = definition of overkill

Make sure the fittings are made of unobtainium

 

^ dont hate, I keep having issues with those damn hoses leaking when I had them on. Now that I am putting the heater core back in, im looking at doing the same thing, or at least very similar. In for results.