Jeezus Ed, sorry to hear. I'll come by next week and we will get your new bearing in and reasemble your suspension

 

<p>Work party at eds. Ed may or may not be there lol.</p>

 

TSE crimped on the new injector clips for your IDs. You'll have to cut and crimp on to the new 99 harness.

Yes, those two big clips are for the shitest of shitty Miata coils, the 99-00. Thankfully the wiring is fine, the coils themselves suck. We'll use the ground, power, and signal from those plugs to power your GM coils.

They're otherwise identical. Grats on freaking out about nothing...

 

Lol thanks Aidan, Josh and Martin.
<br />
<br />So, yesterday I told my dad he should leave first thing this morning (Friday) rather than wait and head to Idaho with my mom and I later in the afternoon. He hesitated, but ended up leaving around 5 am.
<br />
<br />My mom and I left around 5:30 PM headed to Idaho. We had been en route for less than 2 hours when we got the news that my grandmother had passed away. My dad arrived just 30 minutes before she passed. So grateful he was able to make it, even if we weren't.
<br />
<br />Anyway, still headed out there. Hopefully by tomorrow night I'll know the funeral plans and be able to figure out all the rest of my schedule.
<br />
<br />Thanks again for the good vibes gentlemen.

 

I hope she had a good life. Condolences.

 

<p>Thanks Rick, she definitely did.</p><p>Back in Oregon now, and spent all day working on the car. installed rear carpet, soft top, and have been working on intercooler mounting and tubing. Got it mounted nicely and clearanced the plastic undertray and front air guide.</p><p>Right now I'm just super irritated with the brake ducts. @Savington @ThePass is there some kind of trick to getting the damned tubing&nbsp;to fit on the spindle air guides? I've been working on it and cussing for a bit now and just can't get the tube onto the guide. It'd have been FANTASTIC if it was setup to actually... fit. And not be a total bitch. Please advise. FWIW they're the 2.5&quot; ducts. Bought the full kit setup from TSE.</p>

 

Rotate the duct hose as you slide it on, like you are screwing it on. It has to be a very snug fit or else it wouldn't stay on at all (even with a clamp).

 

Ok, seriously... buy the connectors from Ballenger, get some good GXL/TXL wire and build an injector harness. Then build an ignition harness. Done and done.

The injector and ignition harness for the NB1 are actually 2 completely separate harnesses in one loom. You can sperate out the injector harness, reloom it and never touch it again. The ignition harness you can butcher to your hearts content. If you split them up like I describe it makes ignition upgrades trivial, just build a new harness and be done with it.

One of the 2 harnesses has the 3 wire temp sensor wiring in it but I can't remember which at the moment. It'll become fairly obvious once you get it apart.

 

Nice work Ed, good to have you back. Sounds like Martin is planning on getting your Xidas and rear hub reinstalled ASAP, so that'll finish the rolling chassis. Finish up the tail lights/trunk, close it, and put nothing else back there. That'll finish the car from the back of the seats back, and you'll be left with your seat project, dash/interior, doors, engine, and front bumper/headlight setup. I think we're aligning the car too, once it's ready?

Remember, organize, organize, organize. Then work on the car. And organize while you work on it. You'll get a lot more done.

 

Yank and I are going over the next 2 nights. I'm bringing all my wiring stuff, well make something work.
<br />As long as the track day on Monday allows the s2k rollover protection then I think Monday is still a goal, if a lofty one. Because he can always just take the s2k instead of canceling.
<br />I hope my ms works. Otherwise it gonna be a long couple nights troubleshooting lol. I'm bringing my scope and variable power supply over so we can troubleshoot all the wirings!

 

The s2000 WILL destroy the brakes in 1-2 sessions. Make sure Ed's ready for that.

 

<p>He already did a track night in it.</p>

 

Thanks for the advice gents. Ended with a really productive day. Back at it tomorrow evening.
<br />
<br />I expect ORP is considerably harder on brakes than PIR, no?

 

I didn't think ORP was terribly rough on brakes, but it's probably worse than PIR, yeah.

 

I reeeeeally don't anticipate I'll be going to ORP on the 21 anyway. No way I'll get the car together, tuned, and aligned ready. Just don't see it happening.

 

Brake wear at ORP depends on the power level of the car more than at PIR. At PIR even a low horsepower car has two straights to get up to significant speeds, from which it has to brake significantly (T10) and very significantly (T1). At ORP, (caveat I've only done it clockwise) a stock miata doesn't really have the grunt to get the car up to speed enough to hurt the brakes much. Going uphill really hurts a stock power miata. Get to 12hp/lb or better, though, and you start to work the brakes a lot more at ORP.

 

If you don't over slow the car at orp, brake use is light. S2000s when driven hard **** their brakes all over the track.

 

Nooo, you need to go. I need someone to play with. Get some pads. And fluid. Bam.

 

So Eddie CONSTANTLY says that stock Miata brakes are fine on the track. Add some Cobalts and a good bleed, done. He's not used to 200+ machines, but he says much over 120 and just add 1.8 and you're again perfectly fine, if not, you're over braking.

Now, knowing this, he constantly says that the first track purchase for an S2k is a BBK. Good advice.

 

<p>What is the best spark plug wire solution for GM coils. Ed has a mismatched set, and i think one of them didn't even fit in the hole when I messed around with it.</p>