it really doesnt look as bad as i thought, the leverage looks low. its just that a little piece of me dies when i have to stack fitting to get the result i want when i know just about any adapter can be made out of one piece/unit.

 

Sometimes it makes sense though. Like a pipe thread should only be a 1 use connection, its perfect for cutting into expensive parts. While a flare type connection is great for stuff that has to be undone a couple times its really not something you want to integrate into a part unless its an inverted flare. Straight, washer/oring seals fall in a middle ground, where they're easy to put on parts and are ok with connection/disconnection but have their own draw backs.

 

well if there is a good reason to do so, like using helicoils in aluminum in cases where the fastener is R/Red often to save the threads, then sure. but i mean having to stack fittings or whatever because they dont make the one you need, or when people are to cheap/stupid/un-resourceful.

 

Cheap here. I save 30$ a side by going m12-an then the 90. A 90* m12-an cost 30 more a side.

 

If you purchase premade hoses, you can get the 90 crimped onto the end of the hose.

 

I'm using rubber hose, not braided.

 

you can crimp either. just need the proper fittings.

i have access to a hydraulic crimper, but id have to but the right size dies, and i really didnt wnat to get into custom hoses. with barbs, if i spring a leak at the track, all i need is a screwdriver and length of hose.

on a related note, check this **** out
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Milton-Ind...-Tool/19252906

 

can anyone inform me as to why one would choose a puck style clutch over a full disc when theres a choice of either that would satisfy torque requirements? after a little google searching, i am still unclear as to what the pros and cons are to each type.

 

the female die had a sharp edge, so it left a ridge on the pipe. it has been fixed, but i dont have a good pic of the bead i rolled after the die was rounded off.

heres the first one i rolled

 

hahaha LOVE how you're literally making everything from scratch

 

thanks vlad

 

That beader is uber-cool!

 

Way cooler than the one I'm going to make: DIY $5 charge pipe bead roller - D-series.org

 

I saw those when I was searching for ideas. Probably way less work for the same result, and you'll never see the ugliness.

Edit: when I'm done using it, you can borrow it. it might be a while though, we are going to finish the season (may) before we turbo.

 

Puck versus non-puck at same rating means that puck clutch has weaker pressure plate because the material is grippier. I prefer the stronger pressure plate and smoother engagement of the non-puck, myself.

 

ive done a little more googling and the consensus seems to be: pucks are on/off switches and "cool better". i cant see any reason to not go with a full disk.

 

Totally didn't see the ninja edit. I'll hit you up when I finally get around to bead rolling my piping, I should probably do it before a track day. If you're not done I will just make the ghetto one. I don't know why no one has mass-produced one of those and sold it for $10 I bet they would sell like wildfire.

 

Nevermind, turns out my work has one in the machine shop. I will just pull all my piping at some point and do it there.

 

we have a really nice one at work too. its just not a place i can or want sneak intercooler piping into.


yet another idea i came across, although it hurts me to see a crimper used i such a way

 

Ahh, ours is in the "engineers shop" where the elec. Eng's get to play with the mechanical eng. toys