That is teh seks

 

It definitely doesn't suck like the stocker.

Still gotta drill and tap the other one, see what I like better and sell the one I don't use.

 

You can have nice inlets if you have no a/c compressor in the way.

 

And now I can have even nicer inlets!

I dont like that stock piece. It drives me nuts. And how do you guys do the heater hose without a tee in the lower line?

 

I made a couple of spacers, some aluminium angle.




I treated her to some nice flanged bolts.










Had to make a few modifications






It appears the bottom row of fins is effectively blocked, oh well. I suppose i could move it up. The bottom of the intercooler is maybe a 1/16" above the bottom of the rad. The bosses just land on the raised lip of the under tray.

I still need to tie the bottom in with either the under tray or something else?

 

Nice. That rearward location will help get air to the radiator. I'd reuse the OEM undertray if possible for future maintenance. Props (sigh).

 

Thanks Rick. I definitely plan to use the stock under tray. The angle iron is plenty to support the weight of the inter-cooler, but I need to tie the bottom into the under tray so that it doesn't try to rotate around the angle iron.

Got the piping ran and the radiator hoses. I bough the 5 ft. kit of 1.25" vibrant sili hose, and it was just enough to do the reroute and lower hose with my doohickey, i had about 8" left over.

The kia neck appears to be a little larger than 1.25". It was a mother ****** to get on. I had to stretch and lube it good, lol.

Advice for anyone reading this: Install the hose onto the neck before you install it onto the head, let alone before the CAS and coil pack, etc. Lesson learned.

The passenger side piping is perfect. I have one of the rubber lined hose clamp things to install using the intake brace bolt to keep the rad hose in pace.





Greddy BOV flange pipe, 2.5" to 2", etc.












The boy woke up from his nap while I ws in the middle of the drivers side, so I still have a few lengths to fine tune. I need to get the pipe up a little higher and possibly get a 30 degree bend for the compressor outlet, but you get the gist.










Speacial thanks to aidan and deezums for figuring this **** out for me lol.

Obviously need to bead everything, throw clamps at it, run water and oil, exhaust.

 

Braineack said it best. Blue intercooler hose should be outlawed.
<br />
<br />Otherwise looks awesome.

 

The blue silicone has a larger ID for more BOOOSSSTTTSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I can smell your jealousy.

 

You have longer pipes than me. No jealousy at all.

 

Lol, I copied your setup??? your turbo is about 6" lower, maybe, you have 6" less pipe... that also happens to be larger diameter iirc... I assure you its negligible. Besides, I'm just messin with ya, you've been awfully sensitive today. That time of the month?

 

 

More like extra dry humor haha. No hostility intended.

 

Hug offer still stands.

I forgot to mention I found a place that will make custom silicone couplings and tubing in any color, but it was stupid expensive. They had kawi green to. :(

I just discovered I'm 2 clamps short for the radiator hose, which works out because the 37-40mm mishimotos i bought are to small for the kia neck. They hardly fit the rad necks as the vibrant hose is thicker than i thought.

Also need to tap the BOV flange coupling for boost reference and IAT. Is that a good place for IAT?

 

Tap the intercooler for AIT. If using EBC boost reference from the compressor housing is fine.

 

Any reason I shouldn't put the IAT closer to the TB? Intercooler is fine, it would just make wiring easier at the flanged coupling.

I am using EBC, and I understand how it can be tuned to compensate for its placement. But, unless I run a boost gauge, which I dont plan to, how will I know exactly what the pressure is post intercooler? Also, I plan to just run wastegate for a few months until I can afford a proper clutch. I'm guessing the current POS is only good to about 160lb ft. WG is supposed to be 7psi I think.

 

The reason most of us put them into the intercooler end tank is heat soak for hot restart. And if the intercooler end tank is the best option I can imagine how ******* awful anywhere else is, because I still have to do wacky **** in the tune to make it start and idle well on a hot restart.

 

That is a good reason, intercooler it is. I hardly had any heatsoak with the NA setup and it still made idle AFRs in the 16-17s after sitting after a track session.

 

MAP sensor. You don't really need to know pre throttle body. Unless you are collecting data.

 

You're right. Don't care about whats going on when the throttle is closed. Well that makes it easy.

Are the ports on the throttle body acceptable for this? Or should I tee from the tee from the FPR?