This is good to know.

I wonder, would it be worth your time to source the lower compression auto pistons? That's where it comes from, right? Better for allofit?

90 91 92 93 Mazda Miata Engine Motor Pistons with Rods Set 1 6L | eBay

 

Are the auto lower than 8.6? Thats what 1.6 pistons are. Also f that. High comp low (er) boost is what's up. Sean's turbo is going to be blowing hot air way before he will be actually running allofit.

 

5sp = 9.4, auto = 9.0 or so I always thought. I know stock isn't 8.6 though.

The intake cam is different too.

 

I thought the only miata engine ever made below 9:1 was the msm?

Unless I find damage or someone gives me auto piston for free, im not putting any more money into it then I have to. So far, I got china rods w/ arp 8740s, king bearings, and NPR rings, and a felpro HG sourced for $343. Ill need a few misc gaskets and that should be that.


But yea, I think these little suby TD04s start blowing hot air around 16-18psi. I plotted the compressor map at 10 and 12psi, and one of those lines ran pretty close the middle of the highest efficiency island.

 

 

<p>MSM had 9.5:1 CR, same as NB1.</p>

 

I tried to find a comprehensive list of the various compression ratios, last night, but came up empty.

 

so much misinformation. iirc:
lowest miata cr is 9.1 or 9.0
msm uses 9.5 90-97 uses 9.0 or whatever and 01+ uses 10
I wouldn't bother with auto pistons
I've reused the clips without any issues
having tuned a zillion wrx td04's on the 2 and 2.5L engines they tend to spike all the way to 20-21 and taper to 10-13 when running mostofit/allofit. this is iwg but even ewg you're not squeezing more out of it imo

on a dinky 1.6 it will probably hold like 14-15 to redline or something.

kinda confused about the whole engine build thing. you said you wouldn't do it, now you will, but still wont do 1.8. just....weird to me

 

Found the clips at rosenthal, already ordered. You really shouldnt reuse those.

So you think all of it will be about 15psi? I might try that


I keep explaining this, and no one is getting it.

Let me give you some back ground:

The phoenix auto market is fucked, it basically boils down to that. Our prices for everything, especially imports and older pickups is artificially driven up by what I believe to be the ricer scene and the illegal mexicans yard service/handyman thing . S10s, old rangers, nissan hardbodys, miatae, anything that says honda on it, OMFG!! subarus, etc. all get 2-5 times book value here. Want to make some money? Buy cars(particular models) in the midwest and sell them here. I got my 90, bone stock with issues, 140k, miata for $2500, after haggling it down from $3500, and thats considered fair here. That was after looking for a few months and finally finding a guy that would wiggle a little. Other markets would say I got butfucked, and I would agree.

Seriously though, these $3-600 1.8s everyone on this site talks about dont exist here. These cars dont even make it to the "pick n pull" for "half price tuesdays". They get set aside for special treatment at yard auctions (or however that works) The junk yards sell the motors for no less than about 1k, with some asking $1200. 1.6s get $600-800 here no problem. The cheapest CL 1.8 Ive yet to come across in one piece was $950, and I check almost daily. I guess I could watch ebay for long enough, and with freight factored in, meh. 6 speeds are a thing of wonder here.

Then I would need to make another mani, which isnt a huge deal, but adds another $100 easily, and is another days work.


Im only "building" the 1.6 now because I dont have a choice. Previous plan was run 1.6 until blvok vents itself, then go 1.8 by necessity. If Im opening the motor at all, it WILL get rods, especially at only $232 shipped with bolts. I think it stupid not to. But it stops right there with the 1.6, no piston, valve springs, etc.


So I got rods, every gasket I need, piston circlips, bearings and rings for $391.59.

If I went 1.8 right now, that $400 would escalate to at least $2k. $2k means the car sits until about January(new kid, etc), HOA(**** HOAs) already gets complaints #becauseracecar, so then Id have to store it.

 

1) absolutely, it's always better to replace.
2) allofit would be what I posted, because once you keep cranking it up past 15 what will start to happen is midrange boost increase, but topend will stay the same. I think you should absolutely explore that option at least just for fun. it's really enjoyable to have a mountain of torque and that's exactly what it will look like. a mountain. usually peaking at 300tq
3) that's insane. borrow/rent truck, come over here, and buy like 10 complete NB2 drivetrains from my brother. Drive em all back and flip em like hot cakes

Honestly I'm not criticizing, just kinda confused. But whatever, it will be fun watching you molest the 1.6 cause it will now take pretty much anything you can throw at it. It's really a tough little motor

 

<br /><br />**** **** **** fycj UK fun HOAs I will ******* never ******* buy ******* a ******* house ******* with ******* an ******* HOA. ****.
<br /><br />My <img src="images/smilies/sign0134.gif" border="0" alt="" title="2 cents" smilieid="97" class="inlineimg" />
<br />Everything else sounds good.

 

My dad used to say "this is a blessing in disguise". Im really am excited to mess with ALL OF IT. As soon as I get a spare 5spd, or, gasp*, a 6 speed, it shall be explored. Oh yea, still need a clutch too. A mountain type power band will suit mikes style well, I like the "im climbing a mountain, but we never really reach a peak" power bands myself.

Having said that, if I get hungry for more, would a 19t or similar swap be worth much HP, or would it be best to go to the next frame size, a TD05 (same flange woohoo)? Not that its in the cards any time soon, but im curious.

Its been discussed, I know of at least 2 people doing this.


I think my responses put off a vibe of defense. I dont mean to, I just like well reasoned arguments. We cool bruh.


Im right there with you Aidan. I do have to defend my current HOA though, theyve always been really cool. The only reason I keep getting notifications from them is because a neighbor keeps complaining. I think I know who it is. They just react and send a form letter. Last week I forced it to a head and had the board(I envison a green city and a curtain) themselves actually approved the miata (specifically the car cover which apparently gives the appearance that im storing it, which isnt allowed outside of a garage). So now when this person calls, theres a note in our files that says to **** off regarding anything with the miata.

And as a side note, every other person on my street loves the car. Most are gear heads to some degree, and always stop by to chat about it when im working on it.

I told them if they make me remove the cover, im painting it bright purple, covering it in my little pony, kittens, eggplants and running a turn down.

 

<p>Once you get dyno results compare them to my 15g, although not exactly the same frame, should so some similar results.</p><p>Or have Vlad send you one of his million sti turbo takeoffs.</p>

 

I think the most cost effective next "step" would be a vf39/43/48/etc. The td05 16/18g's usually fetch a premium, unless you went the ebay route.

And I'm not even sure if the td04 would drop too hard up top, cause the 1.6 is a seriously small and depressingly terrible flowing engine.

I would never "modify" the td04. it's one of those "polishing a turd" scenarios

 

<p>all those turbos use the same manifold/downpipe flange right?</p>

 

Thanks for the info vlad.

Id prefer to stay OEM turbo. I know a lot of you have had success with reliability with them, but they have been shown to blow hot air sooner right? Something about machining and turbine wheel tolerances.

Where does the VF40 in my 05 LGT fall with the above mentioned turbos; not much bigger than the 13t, but smaller than the VF39?

 

<p>I think this is the only logical answer once you have rods.</p><p>ATP Bolt on GTX3582R Turbo Kit 02 12 Subaru WRX STI EWG | eBay</p>

 

Yes. The VF40 in my 05 LGT daily will bolt right into my miata sans CHRA clocking and WG mounting.

When this project was in its infancy 3-4 years ago, I thought I could get away with using the stock LGT DP for the miata. lol

 

<p>Solution:</p><p>Use LGT to tow miata to track.</p><p>Swap in VF40 in the morning before track day.</p><p>Swap back after track day, tow home.</p><p>Something like this:</p><p> </p>

 

What, did you look for the most expensive thing you could find on egay?

Thats not in the spirit of cheap thrills Aidan....