please tell me you're replacing the rings and honing the block

 

lol. That would be the entire reason for the rebuild, so yes, of course.

Bearings and rods are "because im in there". If a BE pump wasnt $$, that would happen to, but the ITM/DNJ for $70 doesnt instill confidence. 150k OEM seems like a better option to me.

Which reminds me, what grit? I have 2 stones, and dont remeber what they are. I know I asked pat(i think it was pat) this before, but I forgot what the answer was and what thread.

 

Just realized, you might have missed the few pages where I got the turbo on, and the engine now smokes like popeye, well worse actually. Im 99% certain my rings were toast, and I just uncovered the issue when I de-carboned the pistons.

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...0/#post1256091

 

yeah I skimmed through that. makes sense.

what grit are the two you have? I wouldn't go too rough or too long if the bores are not scored cause you don't want to open them up too much with stock pistons/rings

 

The bores look great, 0 scoring, original crosshatch still very visible on the non thrust sides of the bore, even the thrust sides have a little cross hatch left in some places. There are pics 10 or so pages back.

Ill go look at the stones when I can get away from the kids long enough to get to the garage.

 

So by 0 scoring I mean very little. Those might have cleaned up when I took scotch brite to the cylinders. That pic was taken right after I pulled the head.








The only pic I have off hand of after the cleaning doent show much

 

not bad at all

 

BTW heres my shopping list for others to copy.

Cant beat this, no they arnt ACL race, but Ive used king bearings in many builds with 0 issues, they are a quality oem replacement.
Main Rod Bearings Fits Mazda Mercury Kia 1 6L 1 8L B6 B6ZE BP | eBay

stock replacement rings, you can go all out and get chrome for another $30
86 95 Mazda Miata 323 Mercury Capri Tracer 1 6L NPR Piston Rings B6 B6E B6ZE | eBay

Look close at the pic of the ARP heads in this listing. There appears to be fuckery. I took this $30 risk so I can check them out for the betterment of the forum. I was just going to order them without screws for $292 shipped, and order 2000's... im living on the edge. If there is any question, ill have to order some rod screws.

MAZDA1 6L 1 8L B6 BP NB ZM H Beam Rod 5 230" 4pcs A Set with Arp 3 8" Bolts | eBay

Aidan, buy these
Piston Ring Installer Expander Pliers 3 64" 1 4" New Universal Hand Tools | eBay

al a carte gaskets from rockauto were about $60 total, felpro HG, and whatever the cheapest oil pump, rear main, oil pan gaskets etc. were available.

 

<p></p><p>Bought</p>

 

youll also need a ring compressor. The band style works, and it works for every bore size, but they kinda suck. The one piece made to fit a specific bore size are awesome, but they only fit one bore size and are a little pricy.

the one I have used for the last 5 or so builds. I used to use my dads snapon from the 80s, it wanst any better.
Cal Hawk Large Piston Ring Compressor Installer 53mm 125mm Band Ratcheting | eBay

ive never used this style but it looks more betterer
Piston Ring Compressor with Plier 62mm 145mm US Shipping | eBay

for stock 1.8 83mm bore
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...8300/overview/

 

<p>So is that second one basically a set of the 3rd one? I might just get the good one. As of now I only see myself needing 3 different ones.</p>

 

Kind of, still a band style, but grouped into ranges so you dont have a coil of overlapping spring steel like the one in the first link, which is part of what makes it difficult to use. The other part is the key tension sytsem, which is replaced with the plier deal, more better. If I was shopping for ring compressors, its the one id buy.

 

<p>Hmmmm. And what do the pliers you sent me do?</p>

 

Im guessing typo as ive never sent you pliers.

The bands in the kit arnt solid, they are open. Each ring fits a small range, like 80-83mm for example. You grap the open ends of the bands with the pliers and they lock the band onto the piston, they usually ratchet for the differnt size bores, compressing the rings and allowing the piston to slip through as you tap it into the bore.

The other style is literally just a big clock spring that you wind up with the L key, clamping it onto the piston compressing the rings.

 

The pliers you linked me*

 

I can be dense sometimes.

Does the above make sense?

 

it makes total dense

 

 

Nope. Why the expander pliers.

 

edit- You could always machine your own fixed size ring style too. The ID just needs a little taper to end up at whatever the bore size is, no chamfer on the ID of the bore size end.