<p>Nope, just the biggest bolt in turbo I could find.</p>

 

You actually made me lol.

Cant be any more work than pads right? just use welding gloves, dont even need to let it cool down.

 

<p>If you haven't watched roadkill, you haven't lived.</p><p>I need to bring welding gloves next time i swap pads at the track. Did that at thunderhill and it sucked. Some nice burns.</p><p>Woudln't even take long with the vbands you have.</p>

 

Ive watched a bit here and there.

It took literally 30 minutes to take the entire exhaust, turbo, and mani off. High mount has its perks.

The subaru on the other hand.... well, its not that bad, but not 30 minutes.

 

the lgt vf40 has a completely different compressor housing so it wouldn't bolt in.
the others, yeah, all would interchange. and you can get them for 250-350 usually, really not bad
the vf40 has proven to be hands down the worst, most unreliable turbo in the subaru line up LOL

 

Your right, I forgot, it has that 90 degree turned up 2 bolt flange for the TMIC.


So i could just saw it off each track day and weld it back on before I pack up.

Whats your choice of trubo for that motor without getting exotic? VF52? I just turned 100k on it. Not sure if I can swing an upgrade or if ill just rebearing the vf40 here soon.

 

for the LGT? yeah the 52 is a pretty good idea imo



aidan will even convince you that it's practical

 

<p>Weld a v-band onto it.</p>

 

vband all the things.
vband the transmission so you can quick swap it at the track when you blow it

 

Aidan: redefining the dual-purpose track car, for a better society.

Edit: this makes me genuinely curious what v band torque capacity is.

 

<p></p><p>That is a ******* genius idea. Brb shopping for 2ft diameter aluminum v-bands.</p>

 

vband the block too.....oh wait too late

 

Seriosuly, a flood of chaotic ideas coursed through my mind when I read that. not the above edit.

Vband the driveshaft, v band the race seat, v band the dash.

 

<p>v-band driveshaft sounds like a bad idea, because of the direction of the torque on it.</p><p>Why not just use velcro for everything.</p>

 

It took me to long to make this.

 

<p>When you do the engine build will you please take a million pictures and how you do everything? I'm still researching my build, and I also want to rebuild my truck engine this winter, and the inside of an engine is foreign to me.</p>

 

Its pretty straight forward, but sure. I remember my first build, I was nervous.

 

#measureallthethings
#followallthespecs

 

<p>I have no doubt that i can eventually figure it out. But pictures help.</p>

 

Your not going to want to follow mine. Mike and I are taking next tuesday or wednesday off, were going to start at 6am and have it done and running by the afternoon, thats the plan anyway, a quickie if you will. We arnt touching the head because it has already been gone through, the PtW is what it is, Ill set ring gap obviously. Unless there is something egregious on the journals, theyre not getting turned down or polished, so bearing clearance if anything will be a little on the large side with 150k on the crank. Not a terrible thing. No ridge in the bore, but ill throw a snap gauge at it just to make sure they arnt taper ovaled. Ill check crank end play because its easy and important. There are decent writes ups somewhere I would urge you to follow.

Ive found enough people that have those ebay rods that had the big end checked for roundness and diameter and they were all in spec. Enough to make me comfortable.

But Im always a pic *****, so there will be pics.