How do it am sealing to the radiator top? Is it rubber and stretch over mouth?

 

It is this funnel Basically it has a radiator cap with a rubber gasket it in that you screw on and then it has a hole for the funnel. The rubber gasket wears out after time so the funnel no longer stays straight up so you get leaks. Hence why I have vie grips and such keeping it pointing up straight.

 

I said don't block intake side.




thoughts bros?

 

Baffles

Drill out connectig hole

Pul valve cover tonighy and slather the with two tubes of rtv on baffles

Put a autozone filter on pass side and stop copyig hustly because you boost more and will alwayd have more blowby assuming motors are the same

 

I blame the baffling.

 

Talking to failflora we are thinking/hoping that I accidentally bent one of the plates for the baffles and that is allowing excess oil in them.

 

So on the way home from the Mitty I was stopping every hundred miles to drain my catch can. This is how much would fill up in that amount of time.


Since getting home I uncapped the passengers side and ran a hose to a coke bottle.


I went out for a quick 20 mile drive and then checked the soda bottle and it was empty. I will drive the car to and from work the next few days and check the oil levels in both. I am really hoping that I was just not venting enough air with just the -10an fitting. If both stay empty I will try running the passenger side to the catch can and see how that goes. If that then gives me problems I guess I will just run 2 catch cans.

 

Wow that's a lot I run the same size line to a catch can. And just emptied it the other day after 3 weeks and only got about 1 oz of water and some fuel and foam mixed in. And I was tunning boost so lots of whooshing.

 

Do you have your passenger side capped or do you still have your pcv valve there?

 

Pass side is capped and internal the valve cover is un modified I just re sealed the internal covers with the ford rtv.

 

There is a reason why big boost catch cans look like this





For the public record:

I think that using the drivers side baffle is great, assuming that the tiny hole is drilled out. However, there is an issue: The passage is long with a lot of baffles. Like a muffler, this increases the pressure and probably causes more oil to be blown out than... using both the drivers and passenger's side baffles.

Ideally, the valve cover would be made out of swiss cheese and the engine would be happy being externally lubricated. Perhaps someone can make a kit?

 

Been chatting with you on this but I'll throw my info in as well for discussion sake. While my car was running ~270whp, I threw breather filters on both the intake side pcv valve and exhaust side nipple. The intake side (attached to pcv valve) stayed bone dry, I'm guessing because I had removed the line to the intake mani and thus it's vacuum source, and basically there was never enough pressure on it to open the pcv valve. Exhaust side got oily and dirty, but nothing crazy. In my dyno video I took you can see some oily fumes come out of the filter when they get on it.

At your power goals/levels, just drilling out the hole between the middle and exhaust side chambers and venting exhaust side port only may be sufficient, really the only way to know is to measure crankcase pressures. Jason did before/after the chamber hole mod and that seemed to help quite a bit...but he's only running ~250/260 whp I believe. I may just end up running a -10AN line from both the intake and exhaust side to a single vented can (hustler v1 setup), since I won't be tracking it anytime soon realistically... I guess if the intake side does become an issue I can address that when it comes up.

Alternatively I've thought about just doing exhaust side, to a can, and then pull vaccum on it via venturi/exhaust evac.

 

If I did-over from scratch I would

Take off baffle plates

Use two -12 hoses to megaperforated VTA box or slashcut.

Partially Weld some plates -12 holes on the inside of the valve cover. like a little square to keep oil from being sucked out as much.

 

You could probably have a good solution by drilling and making your holes on top of the VC... some sort of plate/square to block off most of the oil. My fear there is I'd do something wrong, and then I'd be pissed for drilling/messing up ---- and having to start over from square one, lol.

 

For reference I did drill out the hole between the 2 baffles to a larger size. When I get new baffle covers in later this week I may attempt to drill it out more. The problem I had when drilling was that I did not want to go to big because I was getting close to messing up where the plate and VC meet.

 

Hey Lars,

Glad you made it home OK.

-Raj

 

Yes it am hard to get the bitch big and hollow.

Maybe it would be best to skip the cenyer baffle.

I do like that nifty box that is on top of the center baffle hole though. That made ne feel cuddly to a hapanese man

 

I thought you added a second outlet to the catch can on the driver side?

So as you were driving it was only the breather line to the catch can can the pcv port block?


yeah, that's not enough venting. Run the damn pcv line to the catch can as well. I have no idea why you'd black a vent, other than trying to copy some lamer who cant poo.

good thing you didnt boost...


I drew this back in like 2007, i still stand by it:

 

You can check post #1107 for how I currently have my lines all run.

 

looks like you had 1 line to catch can on driver side, and pass blocked. I wouldn't have done that.

adding the pass vent on the pcv side makes sense, so just route it to the spare fitting on the catch can and call it a day.


(pic works for me, it's attached here.)