I have an aluminum and a stainless tial BOV inlet flange here at the house ready to ship if you need it.

 

95% of everything needed to be done in the engine bay is done. The to do list for mechanical items is:
Double check all clamps are tight
Fill with fluid
Build wideband heatsink
Install wideband
Install testpipe

Then I will just need to finish up some electrical things. I need to finish wiring up my knock sensor, hook up new oil pressure gauge, change fan wire, wire up CEL and clutch switch.

Hopefully I will have the car on the road tomorrow. The plan will be to break in the engine and then park it again. I should be getting my wastegate pipe welded Monday, and Tim is going to mail me down the BOV flange I need. Once I get the BOV flange welded on I will actually take the car out and get tuning. I miss boost so much. If there are no problems once I get everything welded up I am planning on turning up the MBC to 20+psi and hitting up the local dyno jet. I have a nice 350hp and 250ft/lbs to beat with less then 30psi of boost.

 

Lars is ****

 

I just boosted up my driveway. Get on it.

 

Well maybe if you came and helped.

 

Sure, I'll come down and help the same way you would help when we were working on our cars. Meaning, I will go in your house and play LFD2 while you work on your car.

 

I don't really like the orange fire sleeves. Weren't they available in black?

 

they are available in black from wirecare

 

I'm going to wash half of your car when you're not looking. It'll be two completely different colors.

 

 

You should come wash and wax the whole thing.


So I really should have been updating. Currently I am waiting on my new intercooler pipe and waste gate pipe to be welded. It has taken much longer then I had hoped to get done. Hopefully in the next few days it is done. It has really killed my motivation to work on the car at all.

On another note though everything mechanical should now be done except for those two pipes. I have a few more things to finish on my MS which I need to get on.

I finally decided to take apart my old oil pump to figure out why I lost oil pressure. The center ring was completely stuck. It would not budge at all. I am going to take the blame and figure that I just did not measure clearances correctly when I built it originally or something.

 

If that center ring was frozen your engine would be seized.

 

Why? As is both rings currently spin as one together.

 

Right, that ring is off centered though, if it's seized to the outer ring, it'll either tear up the oil pump housing, one or both rings would be destroyed, or the engine would be seized.

Granted, it's been a while since I've taken my pump apart, so I'm saying all this from what I remember and the one picture you posted.

 

Wow. I actually beat you.

I mean, I guess my car is technically broken now with no manifold and all, but still.

You even followed my example and bought a brand new car in the absence of boost. I guess I am proud? :(

 

You would be correct. I played with the old oil pump a bit more this evening and when you turn both rings the center one does move. So I am back at being a complete loss as to why I lost oil pressure.

On the plus side I did pick up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and battery charger at HF today. So tomorrow I will be pulling off the IM, adding oil down the oil pump plug, then putting on the mechanical gauge. Hopefully then I can crank the car enough to actually start building oil pressure.

 

Did you take apart the pressure relief valve? That's where I'd look first on a known bad pump.

 

? What is this? On the pump itself??? Why pull intake?

 

I pulled my IM so I could screw in a real mechanical oil pressure gauge.

On the side of the oil pump next to the alternator there is an allen bolt that you can remove that allows you to fill the pump with oil

I finally got my pipes back from the welder. So tonight I will install those and then crank the car until I have oil pressure.

 

so did you figure out why it cracked? was it installed backwards or whatever?