Get a 1.8 TPS so at least you're measuring tp% not on/off.

 

I need a TPS only for boost control. But a 1.8 TPS doesn't just bolt on. Where online can I buy a bolt on TPS? It has one from a different model car I sourced second hand from a wreckers but as you can all see it doesn't work.

Dann

 

If you call that tuning, then I dont even know what to say.

 

It isnt finished bro, obviously, that why Im asking advice before I go out and start on it.

Im looking for spool specific advice.

Dann

 

With that kind of "tuning", I'm surprised your **** didn't explode yet. Damn B6/BP is stout.

 

Where on the map is it dangerous?

Its a built engine with low compression on 110 octane fuel.

Dann

 

I dont mind telling me the parts that I am calling done, that are bad, nd giving me advice, thats what Im here for.

Straight up stabs wont help.

Owner did a recky run at a local hillclimb first go and equalled his previous best which won the event by 7kph through the traps (60+ cars, 8 built evos, one with a hollinger).

Dann

 

Wrong. TPS is used in all throttle transitions. (Real tps that is which is why I said to get one.)

 

On this tune, TPS is not used for anything right now.

I agree that it can be, and when I have one it will be used for throttle transition and over run etc but not yet.

Please tell me where the tune looks dangerous?

Dann

 

What tune?

 

The part between where the boost starts and the horsepower stops.

The part that has been tuned.

Dann

 

Im asking for legit advice, I know the tune is only 1/4 done.

I know this stop pointing it out and give advice please, thats why anyone is here at MT, thanks,
Dann

 

I dont see a tune anywhere. I see an improperly setup basemap that someone touched up on the dyno.


You need to fix the problems, get a wideband, and start tuning it properly. If youre interested in driveability, economy, or performance, you will do so.

 

**** me, we all know this.

**** it, ill put the wideband on, spend a few hours in the hills and then you can all give me another hard time, and the advice I want you can give me when its too late.

Dann

 

Thankyou for ninja editing this post to an acceptable one.

Ill go and do those things, but first I was hoping I could get some advice about things I can try to get it up on boost sooner.

I understand fully that it has no been fully tuned, it starts and idles, it drives ok on the street without hickups and it makes great torque and power but is a little laggy.

Its a race car, as little as could be gotten away with has been done thus far in terms of making it raceable and not much else.

Dann

 

Well as mentioned before, the AFRs on the dyno dont look too hot.
I personally dont listen to dyno widebands, theyre usually in bad condition, if its a sniffer theyre often innacurate from fresh air contamination, and often times theyre just not good wideband controllers to begin with.

As for your maps, you can visiallu see that theyre not tuned just by how not-smooth they are. Fuel maps in particular are usually quite smooth.
I dont have any E85 experience, so Im going to withhold comments about the timing map.

If you get a wideband and wire it into the megasquirt correctly so there isnt a voltage offset, you can datalog and Im sure they guys will help you get it running a lot better. Im sure it could use some major work in the low load stuff.

 

Well heres the issue, you say you tuned the max psi using the dyno wideband.. the problem remains that you have no clue how fucked up the rest of the map is... and you're boosting at over 20some psi so you have quite a bit of area under that, that is unknown. Hell even the known afrs from the dyno look like ****. as i said they go from 10afr to 12.5 afr back to 10afr again then up again. Hope the unknown area is guessed better but my gut tells me its probably running at 9:1 afr.

 

Great reply, thankyou.

Dually noted on all points.

What concern do you have with the AFRs on the dyno ?

Apart from the weird stuff at the start trying to get it on boost from an untuned bottom?

You think its a bit lean?

It was tuned from gate pressure upwards and 3000rpm upwards, no where else. The rest is good enough to drive and safe enough. Ill get the gear and work on it.

Dann

 

10afr is too rich, you're washing the oil from the cylinder walls with gasoline... E85 on the other hand is 30% more fuel which makes 10:1 even worse.. To take this a step further u're at 22 or 24 psi or whatever it was. 12.5 is great for max power but its a bit lean especially for 22 or 24psi or whatever it was. Tune for a flat line at 11.8.

You're running E85.. thats even worse since E85 starts detonating/preigniting at under 10afr. It wont detonate because of timing however will detonate because its so rich.

For E85 tune for between 11.5 to 12 using the standard wideband. Outside that range its dangerous.

 

Its tuned to 11.8:1 through all of the in boost section, give or take not very much.

Thankyou for the advice and time you took to post it.

I also wasnt aware you could get det from rich E85 mixtures thanks.

Dann