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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 11-24-2013, 12:05 AM   #1701
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Sorry it's late over here and some of my brain has leaked out of my ear so I'm not understanding you.
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Old 11-24-2013, 12:37 AM   #1702
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^^same here, but box wine may be the culprit...
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Old 11-24-2013, 12:54 AM   #1703
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Instead of metal brackets holding the bar down towards the coils use springs to pull the bar towards the coils to keep them down.

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for those who said my coils stick out like nobodies buisness

update with coil hold down bar

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Old 11-24-2013, 01:10 AM   #1704
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Whats the benefit? My coils arent being pressed down into the holes much at all, I measured the height so that the bar sits gently on top with the main goal of keeping them from popping out.
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Old 11-24-2013, 02:45 AM   #1705
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Benefit would be not needing to mess with the bolts every time you want to pull the coils, instead u just unhook the springs.
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Old 11-24-2013, 02:56 AM   #1706
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oh I dont need to mess the the bolts to undo the coils, I made the tolerance of the holes for the bar quite small so its tight and doesn't move, but I can pull it out if I have to.
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:52 PM   #1707
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Default Cleaner way to wire the coilpacks

I'm not sure if I'm the first person to do this or not, probably not. But I didn't notice anyone mention it, so I figured I'd share.

So there are two connectors on the front of the engine which feed the injector/coils/coolant temp. One connector is for the injectors and coolant temp, and the other connector has the coils wired in just by themselves. I chose to take my injector/coil harness apart, and remove the wiring for the coils, and use it to make a separate harness just for the coil packs. This was super easy to do, as the injector and coil wires are just taped together in a few spots, none of the wires are connected within that harness.

This gave a cleaner installed look, as it gets rid of all the wires hanging around at the back of the cylinder head. The new 'coilpack-only' harness gets routed forward instead of rearward, and plugs into the vehicle harness at the normal location.
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COP Thread-imag0514.jpg   COP Thread-imag0518.jpg   COP Thread-imag0517.jpg  
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:16 PM   #1708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedengineer View Post
I'm not sure if I'm the first person to do this or not, probably not. But I didn't notice anyone mention it, so I figured I'd share.

So there are two connectors on the front of the engine which feed the injector/coils/coolant temp. One connector is for the injectors and coolant temp, and the other connector has the coils wired in just by themselves. I chose to take my injector/coil harness apart, and remove the wiring for the coils, and use it to make a separate harness just for the coil packs. This was super easy to do, as the injector and coil wires are just taped together in a few spots, none of the wires are connected within that harness.

This gave a cleaner installed look, as it gets rid of all the wires hanging around at the back of the cylinder head. The new 'coilpack-only' harness gets routed forward instead of rearward, and plugs into the vehicle harness at the normal location.
I have not done this, but it is my plan to do that, or at least take the wires out of the main harness even before they come forward (split the harness where the EGR leads come out). I don't understand why the coil harness comes through the firewall, to the front of the engine, then back through the intake manifold to the coils. As I plan to repurpose the EGR wires to drive coils 3 & 4, I may even add a connector or connectors at the rear and stil bring the harness forward. Third choice is to bring 1 & 2 from the front (like you did) but bring 3 & 4 from the back; running sequential.
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:26 PM   #1709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNMakinson View Post
I have not done this, but it is my plan to do that, or at least take the wires out of the main harness even before they come forward (split the harness where the EGR leads come out). I don't understand why the coil harness comes through the firewall, to the front of the engine, then back through the intake manifold to the coils. As I plan to repurpose the EGR wires to drive coils 3 & 4, I may even add a connector or connectors at the rear and stil bring the harness forward. Third choice is to bring 1 & 2 from the front (like you did) but bring 3 & 4 from the back; running sequential.
Agreed, doesn't make sense why they come all the way forward, then back again. I was thinking about trimming the vehicle harness back, so the coil wires come out of the vehicle harness at the back of the engine as you mentioned. But, I ran out of motivation to modify the vehicle harness!

Repurposing the EGR wires to run sequential is brilliant. Already in the harness so it'd be a nice clean install.

I suppose the cleanest way to do it would be to integrate the COP wires/connectors into the vehicle harness, so there was only one wire loom running across the top of the engine.
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:24 AM   #1710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNMakinson View Post
I don't understand why the coil harness comes through the firewall, to the front of the engine, then back through the intake manifold to the coils.
Welcome to the miata harness. It was either designed by 5 engineer's that hated each other's guts or one guy who was bipolar and beyond incompetent.
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:48 PM   #1711
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Alright, so 85 pages later and my brain is moosh.

As I understand it, on my 94, the ignitor is built into the coilpacks.

Because the Toyota COPs have the ignitor baked right in, I can toss my OEM coilpacks, cut the coilpack connectors, and wire directly into the harness (using 12ga and 16ga, where appropriate). Yes?
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:56 PM   #1712
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Or you can be smart and buy the 6 pin connector (its like $7) that is on the soil pack sub harness and make something that isnt hacked together.
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Old 03-28-2014, 06:00 PM   #1713
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Is that 6 pin or 4 pin on a 94?
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Old 03-28-2014, 06:01 PM   #1714
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6, one of the pins is blanked out though, so it only uses 5. The 1 extra wire is the tach signal.
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Old 03-28-2014, 06:13 PM   #1715
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Ahh, tach. I've been staring at my NB harness too much recently.
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Old 03-28-2014, 10:24 PM   #1716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Or you can be smart and buy the 6 pin connector (its like $7) that is on the soil pack sub harness and make something that isnt hacked together.
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Old 08-15-2014, 02:49 PM   #1717
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Abe is on the money.
Just measured wires on the plug, and Toyota uses 16AWG for ground, 18AWG for everything else (tach, trigger, 12V)


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Really, toyota runs them off VERY small wires. They wouldn't spend the kind of money it takes to develop a COP system with warranties and all the rest, then use wires like that.

12 guage wire is rated for 41 amps.
FOURTY ONE AMPS. Are you kidding? 1 milliohm per foot.


20 guage is rated for 11 amps, and it would take 1000 feet of it to total only ten ohms of resistance. And that's 11 amps continuous.

Do what you will, but I stick by my advice. Use what toyota used.



See the wires coming out of the coil? They are PUNY. See the giant ground strap I have? It's 16 guage, and the toyota wires would fit inside of the insulation of that with room to spare. Spend your time/money/etc on heat sheilding.
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Old 08-15-2014, 03:25 PM   #1718
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was anyone contesting his 6 year old post?
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Old 09-17-2014, 10:30 PM   #1719
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is there a dxf anywhere for the bracket?

i have a laser cutter but need exact dimensions

Can't find one or dimensions that i can copy



Want to make sure im correct
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Last edited by rhysmate; 09-17-2014 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 09-18-2014, 08:39 AM   #1720
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You don't have a valve cover?

I'm pretty sure it'll have the dimensions you need...
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