There are four pins.
When the coil over plug is facing you, the wires from left to right are:
White/Black stripe, Green/Red stripe, solid yellow, Black/Red stripe.

I just gapped them about half an hour ago back to 0.040 idle is the same, cruising is good but high rpm and boost seems like a series of misfires.

Plugs I'm running are NGK Platinums ran fine a week ago with the 1.6 coil pack. I'm willing to purchase some new Spark Plugs just to see if that's the problem.

I'm also running MSPNP 9093, I've changed the Cranking Dwell to 3.5ms and the Running Dwell to 2.5ms, as noted in the instructions.

 

I'm planning on going to the bone yard tomorrow to find some 1.8L Toyota COP.
I'll post the results up here just for anyone else that may have this problem.

 

I'm having to replace my third bad COP after 5 years. Is anyone else running a Link ECU burning COPs up? The bad COPs will still idle and drive but they miss hard at WOT.

 

I found some 1.8L Toyota Celica COP rather than using the 1.5L Toyota Echo COP and I still can't get an RPM signal.

I measured the volts at the Instrument cluster for the (Yellow/Blue Stripe) Tachometer Wire that comes from the igniter to be 0.012 Volts. I also measured at the igniter (Yellow/Blue Stripe) to be 0.012 volts, so the signal is making it to the cluster but I believe its too weak. The stock 1.6 coil pack produces 0.700 volts at the instrument cluster Yellow/Blue Stripe.

I've followed all the steps and for some reason I cant get the tach to work.
Any suggestions/tests or alternatives to get this tach working?

 

Engine runs fine on 1.6 Coil Pack.

Swap over to COPs. Change dwell settings to FAQ settings.

No spark.

I followed the harness diagram as per the FAQ perfectly, and continuity testing verifies this. A COP left out with a plug inserted reveals no spark whatsoever.

What do, MT.net gods?

 

These 90080 19019 seem pretty easy to get in the UK, will they work?

 

Is it 4 pin? If so, it should be fine.

 

With the Toyota COPs, do I need to use a capacitor if my Megasquirt is running them?

 

There is some debate as to if the capacitor is required or not. Some people use it with no issues, others don't use it and also have no issues. I used it in mine because it was readily available and I like what it does. YMMV.

 

Thanks mate. Does the capacitor have to be placed close to the coils or would it be ok to have it abuot 5ft away?

Another thing I was wondering about is, can I simply not use the tacho wires from the coils if I just use the Tacho output of my Megasquirt? Which I understand uses the CAS for RPM.

 

I came across a set of 2008 corolla COPs and started ordering the rest of the stuff needed to build these for my 95 today. My question is, since I havent taken the stock coil pack out yet, but the wires listed on the schematics, are those before or after the connectors going to the stock miata coils? Also, where exactly is the capacitor going? Since there are two connectors on the coil pack am I using the capacitor to tie together the second 12V and ground?

 

BUMP for this

im running a 91 w/mspnp is the capacitor even necessary

 

it goes between power and ground.


no.

 

thanks for responding brain . i did dig through this monster of a post and find that a few pages back you mentioned the 90-93 have a cap already

 

I've got two 90080-19023 and two 90919-02244 coils, and I believe it will be OK to use these together, can anyone confirm?

My main concern: One of the 90080-19023 coils is showing significantly lower resistance between the +12V and GND pins - ~24kOhms vs ~35kOhmns for the other 3 coils. Should I be concerned? Is this a potentially bad, or soon-to-be-bad coil?

 

Found a fancy COP set on eBay to the tune of almost $800 if anybody is insane...
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/OKADA-Plasma-...item27c7f20fd7

 

Is there way to check bad COP? I have occasional misfire in idle. RPM drops to around 600 and exhaust start banging due to unburned fuel. Had to be just one coil otherwise engine doesn’t run. Now I just have to find which coil...

 

Yes. Keep car running. Unhook each one, idle should change with each one you pull (engine will not run right). The one that you pull that does not change how the engine is running....is the bad one.

 

That won't help you diagnose an "occasional misfire". I don't know the right answer, but that isn't it.

 

Your afr logs should tell you whether it is injector or coil related..