I approve of this sort of thinking.

(Nice looking boards, BTW. Who did the fab?)

I'm curious- it looks like an entirely passive R/C circuit, which wouldn't have been my first guess for solving a VR-based problem. Care to share the Theory of Operation?




And now, some ghetto engineering.

Here is WPIX studio camera #7, also known as the FlashCam. It's a Sony EX3 mounted on a 20 year old robotic pan/tilt head in the area between the newsroom and the production control room:



We hired a new traffic anchor who is short, and the ND decided to create a new shot of the traffic position, which I have very roughly modeled here:




By "short" I mean that she's damn near a midget. And so even with high-heels, she looks kind of weird when framed in the old setup. Thus, the ND has requested that we lower the entire 150 lb robot by 8", in order to get the lens down to her eye level.

Since it was already at the extreme bottom end of travel, this presented a problem. Vinten (the manufacturer) sells a spacer plate for $900. As it turns out, the Home Depot on E. 59th St sells a functionally comparable spacer plate kit for only $32, which is mysteriously labeled as "plumbing supplies."






Unrelated: the new #6 studio robot is coming together nicely on the bench up on the 10th floor workshop. Once complete, we will duplicate it to build the new #4, and that will complete the rebuild of the studio robot system.

 

shift **** and pedal extensions


emergency brake adapters for chevy s10 rear disc swaps




various awesome looking chips from the machine shop at work

ive always wanted to encapsulate these in acrylic for a nice paperweight


my fist day tig welding. best joint after about 2 hours of learing



one of the many tube amps ive built. this one is my personal hifi stereo amp





3", setback, angle drop blocks for s10 stance crowd who care about their drive line angles


dirt bike helmet lamp for night riding


dirtbike fork seal driver tool


s10 big front brake kits i make and sell in the s10 world




small block chevy water pump pulley to use short nose water pump with long nose accessories for rad clearance in sbc swapped vehicle, like my s10






custom gauge cluster for arp gauges in fist gen s10




brake master adjustable pushrod for gbodies and s10


droop stop bracket for s10s with tubular uppers






greasble pivot bolt for the urethane squeeks




**** reusing the outer sleeve of the stock bushing. i make my own cuz im a badass



or maybe i just fuked up the stock ones before reading the directions?


i cant take credit for this one. $10 sheet roller right next to the 100 ton nc press brake


one day i welded a bunch of rectangle tubing into larger rectangles

theyre actually base frames for portable conveyor belts i made for the governemnt...

helmet cam to roll bar mount


the kid i made, we call him izaak


tranny attachment (lol)


ive made a few v bands


1/4" ferrule for when my HF compressor decided to start leaking, didnt take long to see why


more drop blocks

 

I love the irony of joes first picture. Potato quality photo of camera that cost more than most people's yearly salary.

 

Hahahaha. To be fair, it's pretty dark in the newsroom when the big lights are off, and my puny little Samsung GS4 doesn't quite have the same imaging sensor and glass as the other cameras.

And the EX3 is actually the budget model.



The camera itself costs less then $10,000, and the whole package (including lens, shader, teleprompter, robotic head, etc) comes in well under $35k. An average US household could easily afford to purchase one every single year, assuming that they don't waste too much money on frivolities such as food, healthcare, housing, etc.

In the big studio, we have the expensive cameras. Sony HDC-1500s with nice Fujinon lenses and HDCU-1000 CCUs, sitting on brand new FHR-100 robots and Osprey pedestals. 'Bout $120k each, x5.



Cameras 1, 2, and 3 are shown here, 4 and 6 are similar. Cam 5 is the same HDC-1500 but on a jib (very expensive) and cam 8 is another lightweight EX3, but on a StediCam with an uncompressed, zero-frame-latency wireless system. Cam 9 is a basic "handheld" HDC-1500 on the same fiber network but with no accessories (no prompter, pedestal, etc) that's purely shoulder-mounted, used for things like close-up shots during the cooking segment.



The old cameras, on the old robots, in the old studio:






And very slightly older still:

 

I love how you just put him in the middle like that.

 

It was not custom fabrication, but custom fornication.

 

It's actually a two-sided board so I could minimize the footprint. The fab was by OshPark - so cheap!

On the bottom there's a CS8190 air core motor driver. I completely bypass the speedo driver circuit by putting tape over the leads on the flex circuit, and the four mounting standoffs actually make the new electrical connection to the gauge leads.
I take the input for the board from the squarewave speedo out signal (I actually messaged you about that a couple months ago I think), not the VR sensor. Originally I was worried about having to put a MAX9924 on the board as well, but the speedo out signal is perfectly conditioned for the CS8190.
It works really well other than jumping around during cranking due to noise (even though I thought I put a decent input filter on the speedo line).
It has a faster response time than the stock meter driver, though you can really only tell when the board is attached to the tach and you're revving the car in neutral

It was a really fun project, though obviously it has a pretty limited use case

Also: holy crap the people in here are awesome at metal working! I am not worthy!

 

i have to admit i had a lot of fun on that project. i even got to use my favorite tool.

 

Parts are starting to gather.

 

Nice. Get some tight R ATP bends. 120 deg

 

Do you mean this? What part of an exhaust is that normally used for?

 

Yes. Ummmmm it's used when you need a tight bend in 3" pipe.

 

Do you guys ever use those 360° bends for this sort of thing?

 

is that PRO35 a tilt shift?

 

I only use 90 degree elbows, without legs, in a normal radius.

I cant see where you would need a tight radius in a Miata exhaust... the exception MAYBE would be someone putting one of those suitcase mufflers in (as pictured above), and needing it to be parallel to the bumper. Run the muffler 45 degrees to the car and you cut out bends making your exhaust flow better and you save a lot of headaches.

 

This is how I did a large muffler in a Miata without crazy bends. It looks fine from the back of the car too, being that its tucked at the bumper level.

HellaFab Exhaust by HellaFab, on Flickr

 

Does that exhaust work on a car either with the rear cross brace or the flanged style axles?

 

This car had flanged axles, no brace.

If you add a brace with the flanged axles, you just need a 45 up and another angle over to the muffler.

1 piece axles are the bomb though, get those.

 

Manifold and downpipe done. Love this picture.

Shows the manifold and downpipe really well as well as the turbo brace.


HellaFab Vband Bottom Mount by HellaFab, on Flickr

More photos in my personal thread.

 

Is that water pump inlet modified, or just flipped?