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EPIC nuts/studs loosening thread (reposting stupid stuff without reading = warning)

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Old 07-17-2012, 11:32 AM
  #1221  
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lol @ comparing this thread/forum full of people who run under the SM record on any given weekend in some of the fastest Miatas in the country to a forum full of hardparking hood-welders.

I'd say 75% or more of the top-ten fastest Miatas in the country post here. Me being #1 of course, and the most masculine.
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Old 07-17-2012, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
Cotronics has a minimum order of $75. I looked to them for heat blanketing material once and ended up elsewhere because of the minimum order problem.

So...
So....the plan is to spend the remaining 46.50 on ---- lube.
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by triple88a
So....the plan is to spend the remaining 46.50 on ---- lube.
Words cannot convey how disappointed I am that ---- is censored here :(
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by hustler
I'd say 75% or more of the top-ten fastest Miatas in the country post here. Me being #1 of course, and the most masculine.
How much would you be willing to wager that exactly 75% of the top-ten fastest Miatas in the country post here?
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:50 PM
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I would bet $0 that exactly 7.5 / 10 cars post here.

7 or 8 would be more realistic
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Old 07-17-2012, 05:29 PM
  #1226  
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Probably the battery.
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Old 07-17-2012, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by hustler
My buddy is taking his manifold to the EDM shop to remove the broken studs since there is some old-stud counter-sunk into the manifold, lol. I think ECM stud blow-out is not cheap.
I made a failed attempt today at removing my broken stock M8 stud from the manifold. I decided because I was drilling out for an M10 I shouldn't bother removing the stud first.

Even tho I was on a bridgeport that didnt help the fact that the bit could still shift. I now am left with an oblonged hole and only a few good threads to hold the stud in. I think it MIGHT be ok, but my plan B is inconel helicoils.



Other topic... Is the final consensus that we should NOT run a gasket between the turbo and manifold? I saw that hustler had a link to inconel gaskets, but I did not see any T2 size.
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Last edited by 240_to_miata; 07-17-2012 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:24 PM
  #1228  
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Originally Posted by 240_to_miata
Other topic... Is the final consensus that we should NOT run a gasket between the turbo and manifold? I saw that hustler had a link to inconel gaskets, but I did not see any T2 size.
I don't know if it's a consensus, but the only time I ever ran a gasket (on my old Greddy), it blew out twice before I milled both surfaces flat, bolted them together and never had another leak (well, until the studs broke).
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Old 07-18-2012, 08:23 AM
  #1229  
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For those who don't have the luxury of enough meat to go to 10mm, do you consider FM's offering of "Stage 8 hardware with Inconel studs" combined with Resbond to be the next best thing? I read Savington's post about the Inconel material differing but was hoping this would be sufficient.
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Old 07-18-2012, 09:35 AM
  #1230  
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Originally Posted by triple88a
So....the plan is to spend the remaining 46.50 on ---- lube.
...or go to McMaster-Carr and buy 7604A56...
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Old 07-18-2012, 11:34 AM
  #1231  
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Originally Posted by saboteur
For those who don't have the luxury of enough meat to go to 10mm, do you consider FM's offering of "Stage 8 hardware with Inconel studs" combined with Resbond to be the next best thing? I read Savington's post about the Inconel material differing but was hoping this would be sufficient.
That's the route I went and have been pleased thus far. As far as I know, the material is similar (Inconel 718 alloy), heat treated, rolled edges and made by ARP. I bought Resbond for my install, based on the collective wisdom here.
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Old 07-18-2012, 01:02 PM
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I'm running an upgraded Mazdaspeed IHI that doesn't have enough meat to use the big boy Trackspeed M10 kit. I used the OEM inconel M8 studs from the 300zx turbo when I put mine together. I am also running the Trackspeed kit but it is holding the downpipe on. That is where my failures were. I did manage to drive from Thunderhill to Seattle with a single DP stud and the tranny brace holding things together though...
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Old 07-18-2012, 01:29 PM
  #1233  
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The FM 8mm inconels works fine if you don't have the meat for 10's, I would get the stage 8 nuts and locks though as I had the resbond come loose after some hard track days

Last edited by jmann; 07-18-2012 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 07-18-2012, 03:10 PM
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M8 is OK but we can all agree that drilling and tapping to M10 is a better option if you have the room to do it. Bigger really is better...
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Old 07-18-2012, 07:43 PM
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Why not 12s while u're at it?
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:24 AM
  #1236  
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:47 AM
  #1237  
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Originally Posted by hustler
We don't want people to know how the 1percenters roll.
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:55 AM
  #1238  
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Originally Posted by shuiend
We don't want people to know how the 1percenters roll.
All this bolt ---- is so retarded, just buy god damned v-banding and never deal with any of this stuff again. I can R&R the turbo in ~15-minutes, less if someone helps me align the exhaust.
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Old 07-19-2012, 01:44 PM
  #1239  
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What about all the bolt sh*t you had to deal with on your center section after going v-band?

Don't you have safety wired inconel bolts holding your exhaust housing onto the rest of the turbo, one's with EDM drilled holes?

Last edited by Efini~FC3S; 07-19-2012 at 01:44 PM. Reason: past tense, use(d) it...
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Old 07-19-2012, 02:10 PM
  #1240  
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Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
What about all the bolt sh*t you had to deal with on your center section after going v-band?

Don't you have safety wired inconel bolts holding your exhaust housing onto the rest of the turbo, one's with EDM drilled holes?
Yes. I never jack with those, set it and forget it.
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