Why don't you guys switch to Inco bolts and get them EDM machined for the "stage-8" style clips? Probably because it's going to be ungodly expensive.

 

Why don't you guys cast the turbine housing, manifold, and downpipe as one piece? Probably because it's going to be ungodly expensive.

 

That, and I don't think a bolt would fit into that hole on T25 turbine cars.

 

don't you weld?

 

I bet GT2860rs and GT2871's make up 90% of his business though. It works for the OEM's...maybe you're on to something?

 

I used to weld. Then I ran out of Argon.

I've sold more 3071's than anything else.

 

lol @ my baby turbo. Maybe this isn't such a bad idea after all?

 

The 54mm T25 .86a/r turbine flows nearly the same as the 60mm .63a/r T3 housing. I've been told that the T25 turbine is more efficient, though, and the smaller wheel means less inertia and less repsonse. I'll take the 2871R .86 over a 60mm 3071R .63 any day.

 

****. Was I supposed to use the entire thing for the 4 studs? I remember the directions saying something along the lines of "liberal use", but didn't think that meant the whole bottle.

 

We give you way too much. The idea is to get full coverage of all of the threads once it's threaded into the manifold. That should be like 3-4 drops per stud.

 

I was googling a bit to see if I could find a part number for Falcon's Nissan RB26 OEM Inconel studs that are mentioned earlier and I came up with nothing. Has anyone figured that out?

I did think it was cool that on 3 different forums (Nissan, VW and Honda), they all referenced Savington's gear and said things like 'the miata guys seem to have solved the problem'. I guess we're famous!

This might be slightly off topic but my MSM runs an upgraded IHI turbo that is tame by comparison here and I'm at or slightly over spec miata record times so I'm not driving as hard as many here (yet). The stock MSM design does a good job of supporting the turbo but I was having chronic problems with my downpipe studs coming out. I decided to kill the fly with the sledgehammer and installed Sav's kit to hold on my DP and it hasn't budged since (~10 track days and a few thousand street miles). Overkill, but at least I'm done with it.
-h

 

While sourcing Resbond in Europe (found it!) I came upon this info:

Also, there are 4 versions:
(color, viscosity, shear strength)
- green, 2000mPa*s, 255N/cm2
- blue, 5000mPa*s, 275N/cm2
- red, 7000mPa*s, 310N/cm2
- gold, 15000mPa*s, 344N/cm2

We all know the Red version, but I'm tempted to think gold would be best, given that it has the highest shear strength?

 

At over twice the viscosity, it must be almost paste. These days I don't pull the turbo unless there is something wrong not related to fasteners but I'll look into the gold for the winter teardown.

 

 

Good, more info. Well the threads in my manifold are definately a little 'wide' from all the loosening i've had. Time for timeserts or the like, but Gold is also on my list as it will fill larger gaps... in for opinions.

 

Every column but the right hand side suggests Gold is better/stronger than red. It's just the application list that lists 'studs' for red but not gold. Has anyone had a tangible failure of the red stuff? It may be a moot point.

 

Let us know how it works. We have only ever used the "correct" stuff for the application (red) but it has worked great and we have had no reason to try anything else.

 

i'm also curious on the resbond, as I recently installed my greddy kit with brand new studs & brass nuts, and they seem to loosen up after 50 or so miles... And that's M10x1.25 studs.

 

Inconel studs? Did you use the red resbond? If you got a stud kit at a FLAPS...

 

They are not Inconel, but are not local auto parts. I ordered them online... Ebay I believe.. The nuts are the issue for me. Studs are staying in place.. I'll be replacing them with Stage8 fasteners today hopefully if they come in...

And if those back out, I may just snap punch the threads lol