I don't get what the spot weld does...

 

I lost one stud because it was all threaded and it vibrated all the way out. The spot weld will stop it from going down through the flange. Next time Ill upgrade to TSE 10MM studs and stage 8 hardware.

 

Here's the latest toy added to the car. After reading about screws being injested from the stock TB, I decided to get the Skunk2 TB for added insurance.





Here is the amount of overlap that needs to be opened up in the IM.



Here is the throat of the manifold after I opened it up to match the new TB.
I marked the overlap and used a carbide bit to port it then used a flapper wheel to smooth it out.





IAC installed.



Attached to the IM.



All I need to finish it up is a 2-3/4" elbow.

 

That is a beautiful throttle body. Sometime down the road when my bank account has recovered, I'll have to go the same route and get rid of the Flyin' Miata adapter.

 

For serious track cars that dont even work with 10mm inconel resbond and stage8 you can put a tiny tack on the stud to the manifold.

Dann

 

Did you red loctite the devil screw?

 

I put blue locktite on the stop screw. The brass air bleed screw is tight to turn, so I left it alone.

 

You guys are making me worried about my VIC's butterflies. I applied red locktite to the screws, but still nervous about failure.

 

I have an untouched vic...


say that quickly with an accent.

 

Next time you are in Vegas I'm sure we can find a girl to take care of your Vic Leafy

 

What serious track miatas have stretched TSE Inconel Studs and their other hardware?

 

The ones in Australia

 

when the car is upsidown there's more stress on the studs

 

I finally got around to installing ARP studs. I used the same ball-joint tool that FrankB used on his car. It was easy to do using this tool.

I bent the shield back on the rear hubs to remove and install the studs.


Here is how I removed the old studs. To press in the new ones, just flip the tool. the only caveat is to make sure you press in the center of the stud head to press it in straight.


The studs clear the front shields for removal and replacement.

After reinstalling the brake disk.

 

Had a great track day this past Sunday. I started with a full tank and ran it dry. I turned up the boost and was hitting around 20PSI at the top end. The car ran great and I had some fresh NT-01s on it.

Looks like I'll be replacing my clutch soon. I noticed that It was slipping a bit when shifting. I didn't take any pics or video. I was too busy driving!

 

So, it made 323 whp at 14 PSI and you were running 20?

 

All of it.

 

Video nao plz!!!!

 

Video, dyno graph, and videodynograph nao plox.

 

I think my pants are wet now...