Going back to the safety nets stuff. I haven't been in the HPDE flowchart thread in a bit because it looked like it was going to turn into a **** show but anyways...

The only issue I see is that you don't have all the necessary attachment points. For the center net, you attach it to the front cross bar of a roll cage (I'm not sure if the stock dash bar is sufficient?) And also the left side (window net) usually attaches to a door bar and to the upper bar of a roll cage as well. The purpose of the window net isn't so much head/neck safety, I've always thought it was meant for two things, first is keeping your hands/arms inside the vehicle in the event of a rollover (high g-force or getting knocked out means your arms are flailing everywhere) and the more important thing is to keep other stuff like rocks or other debris/car parts from entering the vehicle and hitting you while driving.

That and it might be kind of a pain in the *** to install/remove them just for track events but I guess if it was well planned out they wouldn't be as difficult, mine would take me awhile to remove or install.

 

Plan was to do 2 drivers nets. One on each side. No window net because no cage.

New ****





**** is ridiculously heavy. I'll try and weigh it tomorrow.

 

Kewl chift ****. I actually went the opposite way and got a super lightweight nylon **** and I kind of like it.

Also I have this center net and like it a lot. Good stuff.

Schroth Right-Side Driver Net

 

Plan would be one of those on either side of the seat.

 

I would be very concerned about being able to egress quickly while inverted and on fire or having a worker able to quickly determine how to extricate my unconscious body from a nonstandard netting arrangement. It becomes more difficult when the vehicle is mangled and release points are blocked by bent structure. Window nets are attached to the cage because it is unlikely to deform and they are attached by a commonly understood release mechanism located in a common location. I would advise against using a center net on both sides for those reasons.

 

my shift **** weighs 2 lbs, 10 oz (brass). you've heard about the witches tit in the brass brassiere. if i decide to use it, it'll have to
be covered in leather with a baseball stitch. probably too hot in the summer too. i don't know yet if i'll use it.

 

This one will be powdercoated.

 

It will conduct heat from the trans. Makes for a nice hand warmer on longer drives when its cold out.

 

I'm going to make a shorter one today, this one is a bit much. But the car basically shifts itself.

 

Is it not aluminum?

 

Steel. That's why its so heavy. About 2" diameter, 3" long.

 

Hmm.

That plus the slippery powder coat will make banging gears interesting.
Are you wearing gloves 100% of the time now?

 

No, this is still my main street car.

My other ***** are pretty slippery , well see. I'm making a shorter version of this too.

My powder coater lets me throw small things like this in for free when I'm getting a big batch done.

 

I bead blasted and nickel coated the one I made.

 

That's baller AF.

 

If you wanted, I had good luck with this. Wasn't a high wear item though, should still hold up.

Plug N' Plate Nickel Plating Kit

 

 

Damn, thats sexy. Mines gonna be bronze to match my wheels.

 

Went down to jack the car up and take all the suspension off, of course my jack **** the bed.



Off to harbor freight.

Last night got the line lock mounted with the pressure sensor.




And sent home the xida donor



Today all the suspension comes out and goes up for sale or to powdercoating.

 

Fun times today.

Got all the suspension out. And sold. So thats good.

Stripped an alignment bolt/washer.
Destroyed a tie rod.
Bent a lower control arm.

Now I have a reason to get a new set of front alignment bolts. And R pkg tie rod ends.

Turbofan has a spare control arm, and I have one from the NB auction car too.

So overall not a horrible day. And Tom Brady lost.