Will borrow SPM damper for balancing. These are CNC'd chunks of aluminum. They are close enough for me.

I will then run a stock damper until the budget allows another SPM damper.

yolo

 

Is there anything you can do to orient the SPM damper other than the woodruff key?

 

Ok EFR and track question. Maybe @Savington or @99mx5 could help me out. Do I need to safety wire the turbine housing bolts? Or maybe resbond? What are you running on your MSM sav?

 

No. These bolts are torqued to spec. According the the EFR pdf file, It is recommended to re-apply an anti-seize lubricant to the clamp plate bolt threads any time they are loosened. The torque specification on the clamp plate bolts is 13.5 N-m (10 ft-lb). See page 70.

http://www.full-race.com/articles/efrturbotechbrief.pdf

Edit: For the above, I'm assuming the bolts that hold the CHRA. The manifold to turbine housing bolts are help in place with resbond on the studs and Stage-8 fasteners on three of the nuts and with resbond on the nut that goes under the turbine housing exhaust. This applies to the TSE EFR Inconel stud kit.

 

Interesting. Seems low.

Thanks!

 

But, all tq specs are low for you...

 

Shockingly, those haven't come loose on my car. I sort of expected them to, so they were the first thing I checked after my first track session, but I have not had a problem with them or touched them since I installed the prototype stuff last year. Borg does offer a high-temp fastener kit for extreme applications (A286 IIRC) if you want to be certain. I would throw a little Resbond on them for good measure but they don't seem to be a problem.

The TiAL fasteners that I had problems with on the Garrett years ago were M6 - the Borg stuff is M8, same as the OEM Garrett fasteners that always worked just fine.

The low torque spec is important because you don't want to yield the center housing. It's super important if you are using an aluminum CHRA.

 

Cool thanks for the info guys. I pulled them apart yesterday and just looked at how simple it was and thought "This is something I can break".

Fingers crossed I wont have issues.

 

Material composition could be allowing them to expand more once at manifold temperatures, which could keep them from loosening.

But if it ain't broke, and Sav can't break it, don't fix it. And from what I have read, you personally are an exception, lol.

 

Just talked to Lars, and the EFR he got from the lotus race car (the v-band ones that were for sale) are safety wired. So I think I'm going to safety wire mine.

Anyone know what material the bolts are? Maybe I should bug the guys at work to EDM cut them.

 

I will safety wire mine, only because the bolts are already drilled. Otherwise I wouldn't spend the time or energy. I agree 100% with savington with not over tightening the bolts. Been there done that with my Garrett CHRA.

 

We have both a plunge EDM and wire EDM at work. So I may bring my bolts by and see what I can wrangle up.

 

If this happens, can I send you another set?

 

Looked at the bolts. Just basic SS304. Going to do some sleuthing and see how much pre-drilled bolts are. Might not be bad.

 

Well that was easy. 10 bolts for $10.60. Stainless, pre-drilled.

G, we sharing a set?

http://drilledheadbolts.com/products...16mm-10-pieces

 

Souds good to me. Sorry, I was out at lunch with the co worker units

 

I posted this in the flex fuel thread, but here's some thread sealant I bought that's meant for e85 fuel systems. Might tide you over until all your fancy new FPR flange adapter shows up. I'll be using it on the turbosmart adapter.

http://www.gasoila.com/products/pipe...d-sealant.html

 

I tried my fancy an adapter. It didn't fit with the 1.6.

Waiting until 1.8 to run it.

 

Safety wire and bolts ordered.

 

My engine builder reccomended installing bigger bolts on the OE dampner, he said that spec miatas brake the small bolts all the time so i drilled and tapped for these 3/8" 12pt bolts, also put a witness mark to keep an eye for slip.