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Old 09-05-2012, 04:46 PM   #701
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I think its beyond retarded to waste money on single digit dragster parts only to bolt them up to a BP.
Right - There is "Man stuff" or reasonable and smart. The way I look at it… Sure.. I could dump 5-6K making my Miata drive line more drag strip reliable. Or maybe I could spend that money on a complete and mechanically sound, track prepped shifter cart and half a season worth of tires and amazingly good times... Maybe..
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Old 09-05-2012, 04:51 PM   #702
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Or you could even buy a fox body 5.0 or an f-body camaro/firebird and mod it to go as fast in a 1/4 as your miata for close to that money if you really like drag racing.

Though I bet half of the fun is surprising said fox body 5.0s in your miata.
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Old 09-05-2012, 05:18 PM   #703
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Or you could even buy a fox body 5.0 or an f-body camaro/firebird and mod it to go as fast in a 1/4 as your miata for close to that money if you really like drag racing.

Though I bet half of the fun is surprising said fox body 5.0s in your miata.
Exactly. The surprise factor is the biggest kick at a drag strip. I've even had the announcer mouth off a little as I approached the staging lanes.. He quickly changed his tone.

Some of the best times I've had with the car have been on a road course though. Smash most cars in the turns and smash the rest of them on the straights. It's a real kick when 5-6 owners of modified Corvettes wonder over to the car after the first session. They usually all say the same thing.. "What the %$# is in that thing?"
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Old 09-05-2012, 05:47 PM   #704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dem768 View Post
Right - There is "Man stuff" or reasonable and smart. The way I look at it… Sure.. I could dump 5-6K making my Miata drive line more drag strip reliable. Or maybe I could spend that money on a complete and mechanically sound, track prepped shifter cart and half a season worth of tires and amazingly good times... Maybe..
Oh dear god shifter carts give me a boner. Yeah, do that.
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:31 PM   #705
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So I've decided that waiting for a diff housing only to break it again was not really in the list of things I'd like to do. Ultimately I’d like to swap the Cobra rear end but that can happen over the winter.

I have not seen anyone repair a diff housing before and it's probably for a couple of good reasons:
1. They are cheap to replace.
2. It's cast aluminum rendering it rather weak and difficult to repair

So I shall repair. I started by simply cleaning up the area with a gasket removal bit.


Since this is 100% structural I used a grinding bit to bevel into the material for the best weld penetration.


There was also a hairline crack that I dug into for repair.


To strengthen the structure I’ve picked up aluminum plate to box in the I beam structure. This should leave the assembly stronger than before. You can see to begin; I’ve taken a flat file to create a flat mating surface for the new metal.




I’ll bring it to my guy tonight to have it welded up.

With that set aside, I tightened down my fuel rail and wanted to check my fuel system for leaks. I still needed to complete the return line by removing it from the “evap” canister thing and running it to the return tube on the tank.

This is a bit hard to explain but the smaller “return” line I’ve used was put in place for the EVAP system, meaning it does not go to the return on the fuel tank. Instead it goes to a charcoal canister for filtering. So it must be disconnected and run to the fuel tank as a return line.

I’ve created this illustration to show exactly how the routing ended up. Where is my +1 naow. I didn't make this for me guys


And bam – We’ve got fuel.
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Building a blonde young beefcake wearing nothing but skimpy shorts named Rocky-2e8732e8.jpg   Building a blonde young beefcake wearing nothing but skimpy shorts named Rocky-c4983a08.jpg   Building a blonde young beefcake wearing nothing but skimpy shorts named Rocky-f162d7d5.jpg   Building a blonde young beefcake wearing nothing but skimpy shorts named Rocky-f8e0ddfb.jpg   Building a blonde young beefcake wearing nothing but skimpy shorts named Rocky-a3b52bec.jpg  

Building a blonde young beefcake wearing nothing but skimpy shorts named Rocky-b2c25146.jpg   Building a blonde young beefcake wearing nothing but skimpy shorts named Rocky-d9477e69.jpg  

Last edited by miatauser123; 09-07-2012 at 12:46 PM.
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:36 PM   #706
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I knew your "original" routing was too good to be true lol.

Also curious to see how the welded carrier will hold up to 400whp
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:11 PM   #707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I knew your "original" routing was too good to be true lol.

Also curious to see how the welded carrier will hold up to 400whp
It'll probably be stronger than the rest of it and it will break somewhere else. Thats my guess anyways
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:52 PM   #708
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Originally Posted by RyanRaduechel View Post
It'll probably be stronger than the rest of it and it will break somewhere else. Thats my guess anyways
Well I'm less concerned about it breaking now because I've installed the Beatrush brace, essentially allowing only minimal movement from the differential.

I've also considered boxing in the other side.
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:16 PM   #709
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I'd consider doing both too: I bet you a good beer the other side will snap within weeks just like Ryan says with such a large difference in strength
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Old 09-07-2012, 05:07 PM   #710
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If you don't box the other side, you're just going to end up boxing it later when it breaks. I would do both sides, the whole length of the arm.

Actually, I would just throw it away and get one that isn't broken :/
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Old 09-07-2012, 06:16 PM   #711
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I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who had to modify their M-Tuned fuel rail to get it to fit.

About the fuel system... So you ended up with these adapters?
Russell Line Adapter 5/16 to -6 AN 644113 x1
Russell Line Adapter 1/4 to -6 AN 641303 x1

also:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dem768 View Post
With that set aside, I tightened down my fuel rail and wanted to check my fuel system for leaks. I still needed to complete the return line by removing it from the “evap” canister thing and running it to the return tube on the tank.

This is a bit hard to explain but the smaller “return” line I’ve used was put in place for the EVAP system, meaning it does not go to the return on the fuel tank. Instead it goes to a charcoal canister for filtering. So it must be disconnected and run to the fuel tank as a return line.

I’ve created this illustration to show exactly how the routing ended up. Where is my +1 naow. I didn't make this for me guys


And bam – We’ve got fuel.
I'm sure there is more to it than just hooking the return side of the regulator to the vapor port and bypassing the carbon canister. Any chance you have some pictures of this procedure and routing around the canister? I'm retarded and do better with pictures, plus I like knowing what I'm getting into.

I love visiting this thread, it akes me feel that much better about my mess. You have an impossibly clean NB, me likes! Keep up the good work!
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Old 09-13-2012, 03:24 PM   #712
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Old 09-13-2012, 03:54 PM   #713
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Sounds beast. Have you done any tuning yet? In for WOT pulls
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:14 PM   #714
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in 4 glory
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:14 PM   #715
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oh yes

gettn antsy in my pantsy
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:35 PM   #716
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Hmm, you can see some disturbing vibration in the wastegate right at the end. Just sayin'.
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:24 PM   #717
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You're a disturbance... The diff and the PPF brace are loose...
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Old 09-14-2012, 12:35 AM   #718
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You're a disturbance... The diff and the PPF brace are loose...

OMGZ ur just like me!! I leave mine kinda loose and slutty too.
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Old 09-25-2012, 05:57 AM   #719
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I'm going through withdrawls here.
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Old 09-25-2012, 12:46 PM   #720
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How dare you bump this thread, Erat. I came here to fap to updates and now i'm left with blue *****.
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