Building a blonde young beefcake wearing nothing but skimpy shorts named Rocky
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From: Royal Oak Michigan
Slid this guy out of the garage just long enough for it to snow on it.

Progress on the harness front. I’ve come to the conclusion that I don’t care if the labels turn black. I only need them once. Maybe I’ll dump some cash into a heat shrink printer but it’s doubtful.
Injector harness complete, TPS, IAT, IDLE also complete.

Progress on the harness front. I’ve come to the conclusion that I don’t care if the labels turn black. I only need them once. Maybe I’ll dump some cash into a heat shrink printer but it’s doubtful.
Injector harness complete, TPS, IAT, IDLE also complete.
Print on laser (non-thermal) and/or chemical-resistant labels (Avery L6011), then apply clear heat-shrink tubing over it:
Crystal Clear™ Heat Shrink Tubing
Crystal Clear™ Heat Shrink Tubing
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 5,718
Total Cats: 830
From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
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Senior Member
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Royal Oak Michigan
Progress on the harness has lead me to the Ignition Coils. I’ve decided to ditch the Wasted Spark setup for the Coil On Plug conversion. The Wasted Spark was not giving me any problems that I was aware of but I’d rather cover my bases while I’m building this new harness. I knew it would eventually happen so it might as well be now.
First step was to find a coil on plug that would fit. I didn’t want to go the route of the Toyota COP, although popular and I’m sure it will perform quite well I just wanted something cleaner. The CBR 1000RR coils have been popular in some very high horsepower builds on other vehicles and I can get a set of them very affordably.

You can get the CBR 1000RR coils or AEM actually has a very similar setup with their Long Pencil Style Coil PN: 30-2851

This coil from the seat to the plug measures about 122mm and the CBR setup measures the same. From the valve cover to the top of the plug measures 120mm so this should be a perfect fit.

Here is a picture of someone who mounted these in the Miata already.

To make these “Dumb” or two wire coils fire so I’ll need a Coil Driver or an Ignition Module. AEM’s 4 Channel Coil Driver is perfect for the job. PN: 30-2840

Luckily – AEM also sells the harness connectors that just so happen to fit the CBR 1000RR coil on plug setup so I ordered these up too.

On top of this I just got in my new Trackspeed Engineering 12 tooth trigger wheel. Much faster ECU sync for quicker starts and higher resolution. It can only improve the new ignition setup.

I’ll wait for everything to come in and update you guys with the progress…
First step was to find a coil on plug that would fit. I didn’t want to go the route of the Toyota COP, although popular and I’m sure it will perform quite well I just wanted something cleaner. The CBR 1000RR coils have been popular in some very high horsepower builds on other vehicles and I can get a set of them very affordably.

You can get the CBR 1000RR coils or AEM actually has a very similar setup with their Long Pencil Style Coil PN: 30-2851

This coil from the seat to the plug measures about 122mm and the CBR setup measures the same. From the valve cover to the top of the plug measures 120mm so this should be a perfect fit.

Here is a picture of someone who mounted these in the Miata already.

To make these “Dumb” or two wire coils fire so I’ll need a Coil Driver or an Ignition Module. AEM’s 4 Channel Coil Driver is perfect for the job. PN: 30-2840

Luckily – AEM also sells the harness connectors that just so happen to fit the CBR 1000RR coil on plug setup so I ordered these up too.

On top of this I just got in my new Trackspeed Engineering 12 tooth trigger wheel. Much faster ECU sync for quicker starts and higher resolution. It can only improve the new ignition setup.

I’ll wait for everything to come in and update you guys with the progress…
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From: Royal Oak Michigan
From what I understand this is completely a matter of preference. It’s the distance between the Coil and the Plug that matters. I’d love to hear the other side of the argument though. I’ve been unable to come up with the down side and I’ve got some rather serious performance connections that I’ve sourced before making this decision.
Upsides are – Cleaner looking – Cheaper to replace Coils – Moves one more electrical component away from the heat of the engine.
Upsides are – Cleaner looking – Cheaper to replace Coils – Moves one more electrical component away from the heat of the engine.
Bike coils are really not suited to automotive applications unless you use a CDI box. Dwell times are super low and they can't store significant spark energy, so without a CDI box they just overheat and make crappy spark.
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From: Royal Oak Michigan
I’ve actually heard quite the opposite. This setup is a pretty common for some high powered turbo builds (mainly Honda guys). 7-800 WHP setups. High spark energy with low dwell times for an engine that was designed to run at 11,000RPM. I’ve checked with some of the bigger guys in the industry (turbo honda guys) and they all swear by them.
Why not use the OEM 36 tooth trigger wheel? I think Soviet has also installed it in his build.
https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...1-wheel-64544/
https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...1-wheel-64544/







