Great idea. Thanks

 

That's weird cause no one else reported cracking and there are quite a few people using these now.

Maybe you didn't weld it properly?

 

It can also be so

Fortunately it’s not a big deal to remove it and make it better

 

First race went as I guessed. Nothing work


Brakes went first. I get max 2 laps and after that it was just praying in every corner that they work. TSE 11.75” BBK are on the way soon as TSE have time to send it..



And then the intake manifold cracked again :(



It seems that my support brace and “runner ribs” didn’t work. There’s have to be something wrong with the welding it self...

 

Bummer about the issues. :(

 

Damn, what is going on with that intake manifold...

Sorry to hear about your troubles, man.

 

looks like sloppy/contaminated welds and possibly not fully penetrating

but I'm nowhere near a pro welder so I'll let others chime in.

all I know is that others don't have this problem, and most of them track their cars regularly

 

+1
this

 

Is it just the image or does it look like the crack runs right through a crater? That might be your problem.

 

Same fine crack runs in every runner. What is weird is that in every runner it’s started on the top. One welder said that it does this when it has weak weld seam

 

I'm a super noob when it comes to welding, but my instructor told me that the crater that forms when you don't feed enough when letting off the current is a major weak point when welding aluminum. I'm not sure that's what that is, but if it is that could be your cause.

 

When you welded, did you bevel the edges to help penetration? Because if its not a stress fracture but a vibration/heat/weak weld fracture that its starting to seem like a fresh cut, file grind, beveled and reweld with some super cleaning might do the trick.

 

Congrats on the build - I'd also consider the intercooler pipe setup. Think about how little stress is actually on those welds... That manifold can not weigh that much. Try some Vibrant hump hoses and make sure there is plenty of room to flex.. Also what engine mounts are you running? Might be quite a bit of play when you're in boost, especially between shifts.

 

I have two silicone hoses in my cold side piping. They flex enough. My engine mounts are Mazda comp. mounts they move the engine about 2-3 inch side to side. There’s no hitting marks in the intake manifold

 

IM is fixed again. Next time it cracks I’m getting OEM flat-top and build SS intake manifold next winter (like hf-mx5t here: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...e3/#post548391).

new wheels (sorry 'bout the dirty car)



6UL 15x9 with 205/50 Federal 595 RSR

plus I made some quick wheel alignments
FR camber -2. Toe 0.0
FL camber -2,1 Toe 0.0
RR camber -1.6. Toe ~1mm
RL camber -1.6 Toe ~1mm

 

Dat bov noise. The ricer in me wants to block off the bpv on the efr and run one of those. The racer in me remembers that the efr bpv sounded almost exactly like that when I ran the car with the hood off on the test drive.

Sucks about the honda mani. It looks like a classic weld fatigue fail from a stray crater or cold crack. At least it wasnt a WWII ship that broke in half just as it was leaving port on its maiden voyage from the same issue. I think if you just cleaned it up more you'd be fine. BUT with the contamination on it already I dont think the current one will hold up if it gets rewelded. Because that **** is a pain in the *** to clean up.

 

Thank god that bov is a lot quieter now with the bigger turbo. Last year with the GT2560 it sounded like I was driving car from the F&F movie. Epic fail

I don’t think there’s any wrong with the welding itself. It’s just that the Honda mani and miata flange is totally different aluminum casting. It’s really hard to get that stuff stuck to the Miata alum casting. It just “repels” the welding material. Trust me, we have tried everything and my buddy is über pro welder

I was consider making my own flange to the Honda mani but then I read from the “Honda IM” thread that someone has broken flange off from the Begi alum IM manifold as well so… I guess it’s safe to say that only real proven solution is SS



On a different matter, my TSE BBK package has arrived to my sea container in Houston. Now it’s just waiting it to travel 5165 miles to me.

 

It got quieter? In the video with the camera behind the rear wheel the bov like echos.

 

What I meant to say is that in normal street driving it’s not spooling so much. And thus, bov stays quiet

 

why not do what many others did and make an intake mani out of aluminum tubing?