Honda intake manifold
victor X is designed for 10,000RPM, it's not the ideal choice for our motors.
I'd choose the performer X over it.
IIRC blox is a rip of the skunk2, which is a rip of the ITR oem manifold.
I'd choose the performer X over it.
IIRC blox is a rip of the skunk2, which is a rip of the ITR oem manifold.
I'm about to build one of these, but I need the flange.
I know I saw a CAD, or solidworks drawing on here a while back, but cant seem to find it.
Can somebody find it please. It would be greatly appreciated.
I know I saw a CAD, or solidworks drawing on here a while back, but cant seem to find it.
Can somebody find it please. It would be greatly appreciated.
I'm chiming in again to say that I haven't completely forgotten about installing this bad boy, it just was moved to the back burner. Had a lot of other things going on. But today I ordered some more things I need to make this happen, which is good. Right?
I ordered a 3" --> 2.5" reducing coupler so I can use my existing 2.5" charge piping. Since I currently have an obsolete inside-mount WI nozzle drilled into the existing 2.5" elbow, I went to alcohol-injection.com and ordered 4 .75 GPH nozzles, line, new check valve, and 3 splitters... so I'm plumbing the WI into the mani now, for better or worse.
So now I need to determine the optimal distance up the runners for the nozzles. I also need to learn myself some timing theory.. because if this mani is going to necessitate a spark tune change I guess I need to budget for some dyno time. On top of that, I need to wire up the Honda MAP and change whatever needs changing inside the MS, and calibrate the MAP once in. Jeez...
This had better be worth it.
I ordered a 3" --> 2.5" reducing coupler so I can use my existing 2.5" charge piping. Since I currently have an obsolete inside-mount WI nozzle drilled into the existing 2.5" elbow, I went to alcohol-injection.com and ordered 4 .75 GPH nozzles, line, new check valve, and 3 splitters... so I'm plumbing the WI into the mani now, for better or worse.
So now I need to determine the optimal distance up the runners for the nozzles. I also need to learn myself some timing theory.. because if this mani is going to necessitate a spark tune change I guess I need to budget for some dyno time. On top of that, I need to wire up the Honda MAP and change whatever needs changing inside the MS, and calibrate the MAP once in. Jeez...
This had better be worth it.
My motor is still at the shop getting rebuilt- that's my biggest hold up right now to getting everything finished, but I will definitely document the flange conversion and all that
I'm going to post a few more pics than I would otherwise normally do since there are a number of people wondering about this. Hopefully between aaronc7 and I this shoould be pretty well documented.
Here is the manifold I bought.It is a Skunk2 for a B18C1.

Here is the Throttle Body I bought to go with it since Skunk2 is running a sweet deal off their website.

Here they are together.


Since I got the 74mm TB I will have to do a little port work.

Here is the flange I bought from ftjandra (not sure if he has more or not.)
This thing is sweet, and looks like there is a lot of time spent on designing it.
It is made out of 6061 aluminum.



On the manifold.


Here is the manifold I bought.It is a Skunk2 for a B18C1.

Here is the Throttle Body I bought to go with it since Skunk2 is running a sweet deal off their website.

Here they are together.


Since I got the 74mm TB I will have to do a little port work.

Here is the flange I bought from ftjandra (not sure if he has more or not.)
This thing is sweet, and looks like there is a lot of time spent on designing it.
It is made out of 6061 aluminum.



On the manifold.


Nice!!! If I can find a reasonably priced flange by itself, I will go that route, rather than dealing with hacking up my stocker...but they seem hard to come by and/or expensive.






