BTW - after Hustler and my identical failures I'm STRONGLY suggesting safety-wiring the turbine and compressor housing retention bolts on the turbo itself if you find a solution to this problem. If you weld the turbo, it will hold, and the next weak link seems to be those bolts.

 

I am not metallurgist but would there be any benefit to cryotreating stainless steel studs before use, as I believe most of the stainless steels are austenitic, or would the repetitive high temps just temper the metal again?

 

Awesome result there, borders on definitive.
yeah, there's a lot to be said for that, if the studs stay in

 

Er, which resbond is it? They make everything from spray on stainless steel to ceramic fiber sleeves for hoses. Is there a model number, or some information about it?

 

Resbond 907TS.

 

Extreme Temp Thread Locker, Turbo Rated - 034 MOTORSPORT

 

mine was usually just the upper left side bolt breaking or loosening. although last time it got loose, all the bolts were loose, and the upper left had broken again. so my turbo was open like a clam shell on top. anyway's, prior to this, i had used a longer, lower grade bolt, and it lasted 6 events! longest ever without even re-tightening. i also never checked it or tightened it hot. but when it broke it it left a little piece of stud in the manifold thread. with the miata challenge event coming up (texas) i went to a buddy and had him just weld the top and weld over the hole where the broken stud was. this is an old begi manifold from like '99 or 2000, and when that bolt is missing, hot exhuast gasses shoot right at my oil inlet line! when the other bolts back out, nothing (gasses) escapes. just the upper left hand, meaning the bolt is open or exposed to the full on heat coming from the manifold. are any of the new manifolds like this?

msr-h2009pics011.jpg

anyway's went to 2 events, 2 weekends in a row, and it's lookin' good for now. the other bolts are still tight also.

 

My begi mani has 3 out of 4 stud holes going all the way through. Therefore it would let exhaust out of a stud hole if/when a stud would fall out.

 

Ditto.

 

so that's why the studs/bolts are plastic deforming? the other bolts on my turbo have never broken. the upper right hand has backed out before, but that's probably only after the upper left had broken. that sucks. realistically, we wouldn't be having a problem if the manifold casting was done like it should have been. none of the other turbo cars i've had or have or have worked on have done this. but none of those had the flange designed like this. a friend and i double drove his civic w/ls swap and turbo on a 95deg. trackday. he had a china charger and a ebay manifold. drove the **** out of it, we were almost topping his car out on the frt. straight, about 140mph, every lap. but that manifold had the turbo bolts fully encased. that manifold even had the turbo mounted like ours, but with a little forward/downward angle to it.

 

It may help loosening when the wrong material is choosen.
In mine, all four holes protrude and it's still tight with 304 and tack welds.

 

At this point NOT using a mechanical lock on parts exposed to engine harmonics is a mistake (aside from turbo/manifold hardware). This is why I bought a spool of ss and a spool of inconel safety wire.

You guys can keep telling yourself that castings are wrong, metalurgy is wrong, application is wrong...the reality is a mechanical lock on each vibrating fastener just like the way its done in big money racing. Pop the hood on an ALMS car, you'll see what I mean.

 

You're over your head. IMHO two guys killing their 2871 TiAL turbo is no proof that we need Le Mans style fabribation on our $20k-ish track tools.

It's nothing short of a defect in TiAL housings tolerances and reusing fasteners.

My CHRA is still tight on the original housing (and I did take it off the other day). And I've done more track days with it than it took you and Sav to kill your turbo'z with the AbsurdFlow pr0n.

Excuse me while I go order some DBA friction rotors and XP12's cuz Im cookin' SRF like it ain't a thang.

 

Either your car is really, really heavy, or you have other issues causing the soft pedal/boiling. I've NEVER boiled fluid in my car.

 

My car is def. alot heavier than yours. I mean, I still have door speakers, although no radio. Winter project...

I used to have air in the system (in that part ABS sucks) but my rotors are getting over 650C or 1200F so over a one hour session I see how the fluid could get over 300C or 572F, no?

Last session at Spa was virtually fade free however, but fluid is still brownish when I bleed afterwards so it's getting hot for sure.

I've removed the dust shields for now, hoping for better cooling and will finish full 3" ducts with blowers this winter. Just need adapter spindle plates.

 

I disagree. We drive just as hard longer, without service, and have less data than big baller endurance racers.

 

My pedals got soft regularly, till I put my turbo sheild back on. was boiling the master cyl. :-)

 

I'm pretty sure this is how I boiled my brakes last thursday at a track day. Boiled right out under the cap all over the shelf under the master. That and i'm a noob so i'm hard on brakes. Using super blue for the record.

 

Good point, I should check that!

 

what are the chances that our shitty motors are producing extreme harmonics that superior engines are not producing so they do not have this problem? Baby jesus is telling me to move on with my life, money, and hobby.