EPIC nuts/studs loosening thread (reposting stupid stuff without reading = warning) - Page 48 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 02-12-2010, 10:57 AM   #941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falcon View Post
Has anyone tried OEM Nissan RB26DETT turbo studs?

Reason I ask....

I've been in the Skyline tuning scene for a number of years. Back in 2008 I built a RB26 with a friend of mine for his R32. Fully forged internals, pro-cams, p/p heat etc etc. We were running twin GT2860r-5's and ran OEM Nissan studs. They are M10x1.25. We had the car tuned by Eric @ XS Engineering and it made 580AWHP @ 1.8BAR. Never had any issues with turbo studs on the dyno or at the multiple track days he ran after the fact. Yes, I know not "real racing" but it's the only experience I have with it.


After doing a bit of research, apparently they are M10x1.25 Inconel studs and IIRC they run around $8/ea.

I'm thinking I may try these out and see how it goes. No harm in trying since my manifold is m8 right now and I can drill/tap them out to m10 easily. But instead of going 1.5 like many people here its 1.25 (wich over the past few days I've found VERY hard to find quality studs for... even ARP do sent make anything according to the rep I spoke with on the phone.)
Where do you get these studs? Links please
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Old 02-12-2010, 12:05 PM   #942
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Seems to be some REAL progress. Here's a state of the nation of this thread:

- spookyfish's success with 304 SS M10 studs
- Inconel's initial success
- Suggestions of Rene41
- $8 Skyline M10x1.25 Inconel studs
- kverges' awesome enduro success with A286 3/8" bolts

(I can't believe I missed the above discussion)

Stupid Q time: why might Nissan use 1.25 threads instead of 1.5?

Last edited by JasonC SBB; 02-12-2010 at 12:46 PM.
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Old 02-12-2010, 01:04 PM   #943
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Where do you get these studs? Links please
You should be able to order them from Nissa. IIRC they are also used on the SR20.

I'll get a part number.
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Old 02-12-2010, 01:05 PM   #944
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post

Stupid Q time: why might Nissan use 1.25 threads instead of 1.5?
apparently most Japanese studs are 1.25. They seem to like the fine thread. Miata head -> manifold is 1.25 as well. Nissan KA and SR engines also use them.

My manifold right now has 3 m8x1.25 and 1 m10x1.5 stud since I stripped one out. It's currently getting helicoiled so I can run a M10x1.25.
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Old 02-12-2010, 01:13 PM   #945
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the finer 1.25 thread would require more rotation to remove than a 1.5 thread. It would also have to rotate further before becoming 'lose' than a 1.5 thread would.

The more likely reason for a major automobile manufacturer to use 1.25 studs instead of 1.5 studs is because that's what was available/cheapest at the time.

Alternatively, they may have used 1.25 studs if the walls of the manifold were thin. I believe the smaller pitch bolt has a smaller outside diameter than the larger pitch bolt. Even so, we're probably talking about only a couple thousandths though, and Nissan likely wouldn't have made a part with those properties.
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Old 02-12-2010, 01:15 PM   #946
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Also, when you try to find any quality M10x1.5 stud, you quickly realize that almost none exist. I think M10x1.25 just became the industry standard who knows how many years ago (the KA and RB engines are from the 80's) and that' what kept getting used over time.
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Old 02-12-2010, 03:36 PM   #947
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All the Toyota stuff is M10x1.25 as well.
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Old 02-12-2010, 03:55 PM   #948
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Quote:
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All the Toyota stuff is M10x1.25 as well.
Were you able to fit the Nimonic bolts without clearance issues with the oil drain or other fittings? I may have to grind mine down, but I want to put them in this weekend.
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Old 02-12-2010, 04:04 PM   #949
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I never got them. I tightened and rewired my bolts so we'll see how that goes.
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Old 02-12-2010, 04:16 PM   #950
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I never got them. I tightened and rewired my bolts so we'll see how that goes.
I don't really care to do the work, but I'm driving to Austin and plan to drive the car there all weekend before and after I track it. I've put 3-hours on the standard bolts with inconel safety wire and they're fine so I try not to expose them to direct sunlight or even look at them wrong...but I'd like to be safe than sorry.

Your brakes are going in tomorrow.
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Old 02-12-2010, 06:42 PM   #951
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Your brakes are going in tomorrow.
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Old 02-12-2010, 07:31 PM   #952
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Since the thread has been resurrected I'll check in. Still nothing to report on my through-bolted tube manifold setup (pictures earlier in the thread). I've been slow to get the engine back in the car. But, since I am preparing a different Miata for the track, and I am tired of pulling this engine, my fastener test may never meet the track test condition requirement anyway.

So I'll report back if it ever does loosen or leak, but if it does not fail it is not proof of being a track worthy solution. A necessary but not sufficient test as we engineers say.
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Old 02-16-2010, 12:10 AM   #953
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Went to Laguna Seca today with ~15 psi. Left with a 1:44 and 11 psi + exhaust leak:

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Old 02-16-2010, 12:39 AM   #954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orion4096 View Post
Went to Laguna Seca today with ~15 psi. Left with a 1:44 and 11 psi + exhaust leak:

Lots of fail in that picture...but welcome to the club.
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Old 02-16-2010, 01:22 AM   #955
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So in regards to the comment that this only effects cast manifolds where the stud is open to exhaust flow... would my ETD GReddy which is mild steel also do the same? It has two studs open to exhaust flow...

Won't know until I get the car finished and track it I guess...
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Old 02-16-2010, 01:26 AM   #956
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2\4 fail?
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Old 02-16-2010, 04:21 AM   #957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falcon View Post

Won't know until I get the car finished and track it I guess...

Being fast is a main issue as well. Mike (picture above) has put a fair amount of track time on that setup without issues. IIRC 5-6 track days. Now that he turned the boost up to 15psi his nuts are loosening.
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Old 02-16-2010, 05:29 AM   #958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orion4096 View Post
Went to Laguna Seca today with ~15 psi. Left with a 1:44 and 11 psi + exhaust leak:
Send the man a jacket, folks.

FYI, that setup was standard mild steel studs, Resbond, and BEGi hardware torqued lightly (5-10ft.lbs). So even with Resbond the studs back out.
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Old 02-16-2010, 11:55 AM   #959
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Was there Resbond between the stud's threads and the manifold?
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Old 02-16-2010, 12:17 PM   #960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
Was there Resbond between the stud's threads and the manifold?
Yes. That's the only place I put resbond. As Savington said, the nuts were on there just tight enough to get the turbo to seal against the manifold which has been working great at 12 psi. I tuned it for 15 psi this weekend which lasted only the first (slow) session at the track. The top/front nut spun freely when I tried to tighten it right after the last session. All of the nuts were loose.

I need to figure out what to replace the studs/nuts with before April 10/11th. V-Band isn't an option . . . yet.
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